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01-05-2016, 01:16 PM | #1 |
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Dash Cam Hard Wiring Alternative
Hey everyone! So I've been running a dash cam in my cars for a little bit over a year now and I've been using the 12v outlet in the glovebox to run power to my A118 Dashcam but then as I was reviewing the footage for the camera I figured it was time for an upgrade because of poor night time performance.
As I was looking for new alternatives I came across this: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVGE5G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o02_s00"]Amazon.com: iDoood OBD Car Charger 16pin with Switch Micro USB 24h Charging High Quality(3.5 Meters): Automotive[/ame] This is an OBD II Car Charger with a mini-USB (Even though the description lists it as Micro-USB) plug on the end. As you may know the power to our 12v outlets is cut off once the ignition or vehicle is turned off but I needed a solution to keep running power to my Dash Cam so that I can keep motion detection on. Some cameras even have parking mode where they wake if they detect g-sensor shocks or if there is movement in front of your camera. These features are great but only if you continue to have power to your dashcam. The only method that I was aware of until now was to "Hardwire" some power from the fuse box into the dash cam. The downside of this is that if you leave your vehicle sitting for long periods of time then you could possibly drain your battery and leave you stranded until you could get a jump. So there were some kits created with a Low Voltage Protection feature which would cut power to the dashcam once the battery reached a certain level. All of these were fine and good but I always felt like they were too invasive and if I wanted to reverse the splicing and dicing that I did in order to remove the camera permanently then I'd have to tape up the wires that I had to tap. There was just too many headaches associated with the current hardwire kits that I didn't want to go that route. So when I came across this cable on Amazon I thought I'd try it out. After a week of using it, it seems to work perfectly for my application! It plugs right into your OBD II port which has continuous power all the time regardless of if the vehicle is turned on or not. It even has a built in "Low Voltage Protection" mode in which it turns off when your battery reaches a certain power threshold. The cable is plenty long and I was able to route it from underneath the dash from the OBD II port around the windshield to my dash cam with plenty of slack left. Just wanted to let you guys know about this type of product because I wasn't aware of any alternatives to giving your DashCam power without a "Hard Wire Kit." Hopefully this solves some of you guys issues as it did with mine! Pros: - Plug and Play solution - Long and durable cable - Retain a clean fusebox - Prevents draining of battery Cons: - Has a power switch that doesn't really do anything. In both positions it always supplies power. - USB Mini plug is kind of fat and won't allow me to plug it into my Dash Cam while it's mounted. Must unmount, plug in, then remount. Just FYI my dashcam setup: - Street Guardian SG9665GC (Fantastic Low Light Capabilities.) - iDoood OBD II Car Charger w/ Mini-USB connector - Samsung EVO 128 GB Class 10 MicroSD Memory Card (Allows recording of 1080p/30 up to ~17 hours.) TL;DR - There's a cable you can buy that runs from your OBD II port to your camera to provide continuous power with Low Voltage Protection. Did not know, now I do. Last edited by steeloyangster; 01-05-2016 at 01:19 PM. Reason: Gr@mmar |
01-05-2016, 02:05 PM | #2 |
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My solution is just to get a quality dashcam that has a built-in battery.
-alex |
01-05-2016, 02:56 PM | #3 | |
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The general consensus on DashCam's with batteries is that batteries typically can't handle the extreme temperature differences well and can cause them to fail quickly. When the battery fails then the DashCams no longer work. Capacitor based dashcams are more hearty and won't leak like Li-Ion batteries can when/if they fail. In my own personal experience I haven't had any issues with a battery based dashcam but it only records for a few mins (~5mins max) and I really wanted the cam to continue to run for as long as possible even after the car has been turned off. |
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01-05-2016, 03:19 PM | #4 | |||
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Mav is right, get a LUKAS LP UPS or Cellink UPS to power the dashcam regardless of whether or not it has a capacitor or battery. The capacitor or built in battery only really help when the car is parked for a short period of time and to help run while in extreme temps (capacitor). I have a rexing V1 which has a capacitor with the wiring for the dashcam as well as my escort passport 8500ix radar detector running through the headliner across and into the glovebox, connecting to one of these the usb 2.4 amp socket is for the dashcam and the cigarette lighter socket is for the valentine one: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJ27L90?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_ detailpage"]Amazon.com: Cable Matters 17W 3.4A Car Charger with Lighter Socket and Dual USB Charging Ports: Cell Phones & Accessories[/ame] [ame="http://www.amazon.com/LUKAS-LK-530-12V-Battery-Potable-Blackbox/dp/B00CHYKOD0/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1452025207&sr=8-16&keywords=lukas+dash+cam"]Amazon.com : LUKAS LK-530-12V Dash Cam Smart Power Supply Battery Pack (All in one Potable UPS) For Car Blackbox : In Dash Vehicle Gps Units : GPS & Navigation[/ame] That connects to my UPS which in turn connects to the socket in the glovebox and can power them both for 12-14 hours when the car isn't running and is parked somewhere also it charges super quick. Much better solution than drawing power from OBD2
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01-05-2016, 03:30 PM | #5 |
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I do not have any suggestions as I don't have the need for one. However, your post points out the problem with any constant-powered plug-in device: battery failure.
I'd rather have my dashcam battery fail than my car battery fail because of excessive draw, cold, or both. -alex |
01-05-2016, 03:35 PM | #6 |
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I use [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Blackvue-Power-Magic-Pro-Prevention/dp/B008B8ERIO/"]this[/ame] in my other car and it works well. I can switch it off when I don't need it and it powers itself down if the battery starts getting low. Never had a problem with it and there was no splicing, I just used tap-a-fuses into the fuse box.
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01-05-2016, 03:45 PM | #7 |
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I'm getting this [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-Supercapacitor-DashCam/dp/B00U0OJMYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452026700&sr=8-1&keywords=street+guardian+sg9665gc"]Amazon.com : Street Guardian SG9665GC Supercapacitor Sony Exmor IMX322 WDR CMOS Sensor DashCam 1080P 30FPS + 32GB microSD card + USB/OTG Android Card Reader + GPS (Best Of - DashCamTalk) : Electronics[/ame] Waiting for it to come in the mail. I need capacitor cause I live in a Hot state and Battery would not last as long.
Best bang for buck, and compact. Better quality video in day and night. A bit pricey but well worth it. The Hardwire kit [ame="http://www.amazon.com/CELL-POWER-CPUSB01-Discharge-Prevention/dp/B00VLAEPJ0/ref=pd_bxgy_422_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1FGT02B41T5A399HP PV5"]Amazon.com : CELL POWER CPUSB01 12V to 5V MiniUSB Power Adapter with BDP (Battery Discharge Prevention) Low Voltage Cut-Off for Street Guardian SG9665GC (and other mini-USB powered) DashCam products : Electronics[/ame] Contact Pier28 on Dashcamtalk for more info since he is authorized to sell it. Last edited by xFury; 01-05-2016 at 04:00 PM. |
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01-05-2016, 04:01 PM | #8 |
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Love my blackvue and all it's features. I got the 720p version, front and rear, slim and discreet, records audio, has parking mode, and can connect via wifi to my phone for live footage for only $200. A black magic pro runs about $25 and it connects to a running power source to enable parking mode. I wired mine so that it didn't require any splicing and is 100% reversible. Don't fall for dashcams with screens..why would you ever need a screen after you set your view. Screens just make the camera bigger/bulkier. Wifi/bluetooth is the future. Plus, in any accident, I can immediately pull the footage via my phone to show any law enforcement instead of having them crawl into the wreckage.
Fair warning though, the higher end blackvue, 1080p front and rear runs about $400. Worth it IMO, especially since I live in the heart of asian driver territory. FTR I'm asian. You get what you pay for: http://www.blackvue.com/products/ They seem to be utilizing cloud storage now so that's a plus. Never lose anything important again.
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01-05-2016, 04:48 PM | #9 |
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Huh...never thought about the OBD as a car charger...! Guess I should take off my bluetooth connector since I always left it plugged in for the torque app.
I just got the Cellink B external battery pack just a few days ago and I'm testing it at the moment but it works perfectly with my blackvue 550 (2 channel) It has a 6000ma lithium-ion phosphate battery so it drains that first before it uses the juice from the car battery if you decide to hardwire it. Or you can plug it to the 12v plug so it'll power the dashcam while the car is off but if you drive your car, it'll recharge the battery but the dashcam would still be running while you're driving. Alternatively, if you have a DC to 12v adaptor, you can fully charge it at home before you connect it to your car in the morning to work or a roadtrip. It's a bit pricey but it's a good solution if you're hesitant about hardwiring the dashcam directly to the car battery. I saw this powerbank battery constantly while I was watching a hockey game yesterday. It has double the power and you can boost your car battery if it dies! It also has multiple connectors so I believe it'll work with a dashcam along with smartphones, ipods, et. I think it's sold under multiple brands so it's a generic battery product out of china. |
01-05-2016, 04:54 PM | #10 | |
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FTR I'm asian too. |
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01-05-2016, 05:20 PM | #11 | |
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01-05-2016, 05:26 PM | #12 | |
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01-05-2016, 05:28 PM | #13 | |
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It includes the GPS sensor also, so it automatically update the date and time for ya. Also the internals and lens are different also. Still a great dash cam format tho! |
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01-05-2016, 05:43 PM | #14 | |
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