Really bad experience with Kraftwerks C30 supercharger

[D K]

Originally Posted by Andrew025

I want to see it

This is all Im able to show since the rest of our conversation was not something Im willing to share.

David

If possible please use a serpentine, since all our testing is done with this
type of belt.

As long as timing is not required we recommend s-belts for many reasons.

[slipdog]

Originally Posted by themajesticone

@slipdog

You can also argue that the fact they specifically put,

"Not following these specifications voids warranty and may result in permanent damage of the supercharger system and/or other systems in the vehicle/application"

...explicitly states it is highly not recommended as well as discouraged because of the above said repercussions.

Not really. If you look at the specifications, the only ones mandatory are things like bolt pattern/spacing, shaft diameter, depth, etc. So there is no explicit statement about cogged or not. If your pully is too fat or the diameter is too big, then yes. But you could make a cogged belt that fits their specifications and it will not void the warranty. Causing damage is unknown.

[Sammakko]

Originally Posted by John92

I drove from WA to FL no oil cooler and the only problem I had my whole trip was due to bad fuel. I have not snapped a belt yet, and you should run clogged idler pulleys just saying.

that's a long ass drive

[themajesticone]

Originally Posted by slipdog

Not really. If you look at the specifications, the only ones mandatory are things like bolt pattern/spacing, shaft diameter, depth, etc. So there is no explicit statement about cogged or not. If your pully is too fat or the diameter is too big, then yes. But you could make a cogged belt that fits their specifications and it will not void the warranty. Causing damage is unknown.

You are clearly missing it and ignoring the words right in front of you provided above....

It is plenty clear and there is no room for confusion or doubt.

[Fastbrew]

Wow - OP - so sorry you are dealing with an issue like this. What a total buzzkill. GL in your effort to get a stable ride.

[enivid]

Originally Posted by KraftWerks

Please show us where Rotrex doesn't recommend the cogged system?

What is your hypothesis on why your kit tends to breaks belts? All user error or a design problem?

[Andrew025]

Originally Posted by enivid

What is your hypothesis on why your kit tends to breaks belts? All user error or a design problem?

I'm assuming this is rhetorical?

[s0sl0w]

Seems like KW could resolve this easily enough by offering or changing the kut to a ribbe belt. However the shock explanation makes a hell of a lot of sense to this engineering student. Damn shame that kraftwerks doesn't seem to want to recognize the issue either as I believe they honestly have the superior tubing route.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by s0sl0w

... as I believe they honestly have the superior tubing route.

Please elaborate; from what I've observed the charge piping on both the JR and KW kits follow the same route.

From the SC outlet they both route the piping under the driver's headlight down around the washer fluid reservoir with a bend feeding the intercooler and then back up under the opposite headlight and onward into the intake manifold.

[Andrew025]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Please elaborate; from what I've observed the charge piping on both the JR and KW kits follow the same route.

From the SC outlet they both route the piping under the driver's headlight down around the washer fluid reservoir with a bend feeding the intercooler and then back up under the opposite headlight and onward into the intake manifold.

He's probably talking about the curve right before the TB, although it isn't as drastic a curve as many people think.

[s0sl0w]

That's exactly it, I'd also like to see the j/r utlize a more sealed filter. I can fix the filter quibbles myself. Not much I can do about the curve ahead of the TB.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Andrew025

He's probably talking about the curve right before the TB, although it isn't as drastic a curve as many people think.

The air in that curved inlet tube has already been metered by the MAF and most tuners use a speed density hybrid tune using the MAP sensor in the manifold past the TB so not sure what his point is.

After looking at the dyno comparisons between the kits and understanding how they both measure airflow and manifold pressure again I don't see anything superior about the routing of the KW kit's charge piping.

Originally Posted by s0sl0w

That's exactly it, I'd also like to see the j/r utlize a more sealed filter. I can fix the filter quibbles myself. Not much I can do about the curve ahead of the TB.

Did you know that CSG has measured and logged intake air temperatures to be lower than stock with the JRSC kit? It's not hindering performance in any way having the air filter exposed in the engine bay. Intercooling takes care of all those concerns. The filter gets fresh air through the same opening that the stock airbox snorkel does at speed.

If you're really that worried about it and have money to burn then you can buy what Pure made for the Vortech kit. Should be relatively easy to adapt or put your own together.

[s0sl0w]

If you looks at the exhaust data, the Kraft kit makes almost all of the power of the JR but is doing it with a cat back and 2 cats in play vs the JR car having no cats and "full exhaust" (header?). Since the tuner and gas was the same and they use the same blower that pretty much leaves the tubing. Kraft has placed the blower and filter better (more efficiently) but then fucked it all with belt/pulley setup. Ideally a Kraft kit with non cogged pulleys/belt would be the best I'd hazard.

[Andrew025]

Originally Posted by s0sl0w

If you looks at the exhaust data, the Kraft kit makes almost all of the power of the JR but is doing it with a cat back and 2 cats in play vs the JR car having no cats and "full exhaust" (header?). Since the tuner and gas was the same and they use the same blower that pretty much leaves the tubing. Kraft has placed the blower and filter better (more efficiently) but then fucked it all with belt/pulley setup. Ideally a Kraft kit with non cogged pulleys/belt would be the best I'd hazard.

Exhaust setup doesn't make that much of a difference with a SC setup anyway, not like a turbo at least.
I don't think the tubing will make much of a difference either.