Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[SprintexUSA]

Stockysnail--look back one page for the adjustment pointers.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...40066&page=290

Vex--The sight glass should be 1/2 way full or close.

...and you can use the same intake tube for either blower.

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by Dream20b

I had the wrong picture in my head; what i'm throwing around in my head is essentially a short ram intake that would sit near the blower so I can shorten the path to from the filter to blower, but i'm thinking that would cause some amount of heatsoak. Is there a kit that does that or is this a bad idea?


Excuse my crude drawing, but essentially something to remove the pipe (circled in white) and move the intake (circled in red) Where the pipe was.

You can do it with a super short intake tube, but cooler air is always better, so unless you do some jury rigging, and cutting and either ducting or a hole in your hood, I'd stick to the front of the bumper like the stock unit or like the Perrin intake. The supercharger gets pretty darn hot even with the intercooler, so why make it hotter in my opinion than you have to.

[theanswer3]

Alright guys. Have a question. Hopefully someone has seen my issue. So i have an automatic and got the innovate stage 2 installed on my car. Loaded the tune and everything was fine. All of the sudden when the car is idling around 750 rpm the oil light comes on and flickers with the car. It does not stay on solid just kinda blinks When the rpm is higher then 750 it does not come on at all. So if I say put on my ac it idles high enough that it does not come on. Oil is filled and there is no oil leak or anything. Anyone have an idea why this might be happening.

[Kodename47]

Did you maybe damage the oil pressure switch during the install? That light is telling you there is no oil pressure. If it's false you need it sorted but if it's genuine then I'd be taking it to be looked at. Usually if the light comes on your bearings will have damage.

[theanswer3]

Well that's why it's weird. We checked the oil pressure switch and it was fine. I can replicate the problem. When I let car idle it drops to 750rpm...then the light flickers. Any time I even tap it to 800 it goes off and does not come on again at any rpm.

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by theanswer3

Well that's why it's weird. We checked the oil pressure switch and it was fine. I can replicate the problem. When I let car idle it drops to 750rpm...then the light flickers. Any time I even tap it to 800 it goes off and does not come on again at any rpm.

If you can still replicate the problem even when the car has sat overnight and you start it in the morning idling cold, then maybe the sensor is bad. I say when the car is idling cold because when it's cold the pressure is much higher (around 100psi) vs when the car is completely warm (around 7psi)

I would either replace the stock sensor or get an aftermarket one like I have or a Defi one that way you can unplug the stock sensor and use one that gives an actual number reading.

[Dream20b]

I feel like from the drag racing i've done, The intercooler seems like a restriction. Is this likely or even possible? I haven't seen anyone post that they are in the 12s besides myself on a street tire. I think that with a redesign of the intercooler it would be possible to gain a bit of horsepower over the heatsoak losses. I ran from 12.9 as my best to 13.7 as my worst after going round and round.


I'm not arguing that the intercooler doesn't work, I just want to know if there's a more efficient way to run it.

@SprintexUSA, @moto-mike,


Please note that this is just my theory, and purely conjecture

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

If you can still replicate the problem even when the car has sat overnight and you start it in the morning idling cold, then maybe the sensor is bad. I say when the car is idling cold because when it's cold the pressure is much higher (around 100psi) vs when the car is completely warm (around 7psi)

I would either replace the stock sensor or get an aftermarket one like I have or a Defi one that way you can unplug the stock sensor and use one that gives an actual number reading.

Sounds like there is too much vacuum on the crank case. I had a check valve put in on the intake for temporary use and vacuum at idle caused the oil pressure light to flicker. Once I pulled out the check valve out everything cleared up.

[theanswer3]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

Sounds like there is too much vacuum on the crank case. I had a check valve put in on the intake for temporary use and vacuum at idle caused the oil pressure light to flicker. Once I pulled out the check valve out everything cleared up.

So what do I need to do to make it go away.

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by theanswer3

So what do I need to do to make it go away.

I'd guess you have a hose or check valve in the wrong spot.

[Dream20b]

Originally Posted by customfab87

My Non Intercooled Tuner kit will be here tomorrow! Planning running E85 instead of an intercooler and tuning with RomRaider/OFT.

same setup here except running ecutek. Just don't try to beat on it on premium gas if you go with a small pulley

[kchar]

So I can finally join this thread, S5-210-110613-0012. Just took it out the box and noticed what appears to be some rust on the pulley mount. I'll post a picture if needed but its pretty self-explanatory :3

Anyone else have this and should I be concerned?

[Dream20b]

mine had flash rust very quickly as well.

[kchar]

Does anyone who went from the 80mm pulley to the 70mm pulley have the part information for a smaller idler pulley and the "provided bearing shim" that is supposed to go behind the bearing?

Edit: Just called and ordered it straight from SprintexUSA.