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Old 05-08-2014, 09:14 PM   #43
subiestyle
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Originally Posted by trevorovert View Post
I've still yet to see any solid evidence indicating something broke due to driving hard in the break in period. The only real way to tell would be to drive 2 identical cars the exact same way after 1k miles, but hoon one and drive one like a grandma for the first thousand miles.

I dunno how many times I hit redline on the way back from the dealership.. it would probably make most of you cringe
Its not that it will break.

The break in is to get max power and max fuel efficiency.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:53 PM   #44
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Its not that it will break.

The break in is to get max power and max fuel efficiency.
Do you have actual evidence of that, or just parroting what everyone says?
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:25 PM   #45
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Auto x'd with the stock Bridgestones lol
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:52 PM   #46
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It's not rocket science or take a genius to understand metal expands to different sizes depending on heat. You want all the parts to wear down evenly and your rings to create a nice seal. Nice seals create max power and max fuel efficiency.

Until manufacturing gets to the point where they can build a metallic engine that defies this law of physics, the engineers will continue to recommend the break-in.
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:57 PM   #47
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What did you do when you hit the 1000 miles mark? Gunned it then instantly decided to start modding.
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:19 PM   #48
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I have replaced pistons in 1 cylinder engines, and the sleeve (cylinder head) that the piston sits in gets a cross hatching to rough up the surface for the new piston and rings. This is a ball hone. The rings around the piston mate with this cross hatching to create a seal in a dirt bike engine anyways. I assume the same is for car engines.

Warming up the engine is important. I sit there at least a while to hear the rpm jump, then drop back down to 600 or so. Before 1000 miles I went over the 5-6000 rpm mark several times for short intervals. I don't really drive the car to red line ever because it is just mostly acceleration in traffic. Well maybe a few times. Of course. Everyone has their own choice to make regarding break in, but I have driven the car hard before 1000 miles.

It's a car. Drive it. It is not an investment.
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:17 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subiestyle View Post
It's not rocket science or take a genius to understand metal expands to different sizes depending on heat. You want all the parts to wear down evenly and your rings to create a nice seal. Nice seals create max power and max fuel efficiency.

Until manufacturing gets to the point where they can build a metallic engine that defies this law of physics, the engineers will continue to recommend the break-in.
Correct, which is why letting engines warm up a bit before flooring it is important in general (not from a wear point, but you get extra blow-by past the rings and gaskets before it's warmed up). That has nothing to do with engine break-in though.
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:45 AM   #50
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seems like most people forget that the break in period isn't just for the engine either. From the factory they put enough pressure behind the O-rings to seat them against the engine wall when they test it. However, you are also breaking in your gearbox, exhaust, the differential, and pretty much any other moving part. Do what you want it's your car, but I'll be happy to wait to smack it at 1000 miles after an oil change and visual inspection of components.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:02 AM   #51
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Got more gas
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:03 AM   #52
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Floored it
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:06 AM   #53
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What's more important than limiting your revs is the break-in suggestion that you vary the load on the engine and avoid using cruise control. Driving along using the cruise control breaks the engine in at a single load and will cause the rings to seat for that load only. You want the cylinder to initially wear in a tapered shape so that the rings seat properly all the way through the stroke, but using cruise extensively during break in tends to create more wear at the top and bottom and less at the middle, so that the rings never really seat quite right throughout the stroke.
This is what I was told to say back when I was a salesman in a Mazda dealer. And while I made sure to stay at high rev for very small amount of time I didn't hesitate to take it near/to the rev limiter from the 1st day.

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Old 05-09-2014, 01:26 PM   #54
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Took it to the track.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:38 PM   #55
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Hit 1000 miles only after 20 days. Ouch. 95% was heavy city street driving. I almost never get to go on the freeway to see how fast the car can really go. Closest thing I get to drive on is Skillman St where I can go 70. Speed limit is 45 but mos everyone is doing between 60 to 70. Going to be a lot of wear on the vehicle. I was leaving Albertsons when it changed to 1000. Stop and grabbed a photo.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:07 PM   #56
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Added TRD CAI, Perrin catback, RE-11A's, changed oil and filter, then this:

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