Nameless Performance Equal Length Stepped Header

[verts]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

do any of your rattles / noises sound like mine.. clip attached I'm almost sure my issue is the front / over combo.. Mine is catted and Helmholtz'd (old design with the res at the front of the pipe) and the tinny rattle i have had ever since i installed the front pipe, it just got a lot worse with the nameless header.

Hmmm no doesn't sound like mine, mine was more a "holy shit whats vibrating the whole cabin" kind of rattle. Maybe thats a slight one against the head?

Heres what I did with the hanger anyways;just longer than the stock one by maybe 1/2". Lots of clearance from the head now.

[verts]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

Those grimspeed gaskets have leaked on me twice now. The stock gaskets seal better with aftermarket headers. I made the mistake of using the grimspeeds the second time with this header install... I will be switching back to stock style when i pull it all apart again to fix my rattle.

Will have to try some new oem gaskets then the next time i take it off rather than the grimmspeeds.

EDIT : Took the header off to take to a friend at a shop. He says the flanges are perfectly fine. Its really just the op/dp being 2.5" that is the source of the leak/issues due to like someone said not enough surface area between the 3" and 2.5" flange. Should be able to fix it all up and get it functioning fine when the graphite gasket shows up

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by verts

Hmmm no doesn't sound like mine, mine was more a "holy shit whats vibrating the whole cabin" kind of rattle. Maybe thats a slight one against the head?

Heres what I did with the hanger anyways;just longer than the stock one by maybe 1/2". Lots of clearance from the head now.

I exchanged emails with John, the president of Nameless, a little while ago. I think mine probably is the corner of the head, especially since I have always thought it was hitting the subframe as a result kept pushing the overpipe closer and closer to the head to make room on the other side.

[Ranatsu]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

Those grimspeed gaskets have leaked on me twice now. The stock gaskets seal better with aftermarket headers. I made the mistake of using the grimspeeds the second time with this header install... I will be switching back to stock style when i pull it all apart again to fix my rattle.

That's exactly what mine sounds like. I've checked everywhere on mine and can't find anything touching and I haven't found any leaks.
I thought maybe mine was touching the head but I put the car on a lift and had someone free rev it while I was underneath. Definitely not touching the head, even though its 10-5mm away.

[verts]

Originally Posted by Ranatsu

That's exactly what mine sounds like. I've checked everywhere on mine and can't find anything touching and I haven't found any leaks.
I thought maybe mine was touching the head but I put the car on a lift and had someone free rev it while I was underneath. Definitely not touching the head, even though its 10-5mm away.

Is it still making no noise when just free-revving? I found my rattles would only happen under load as the exhaust moves a bit more then especially since the mid pipe hanger is solid and attached to the transmission.

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by verts

Is it still making no noise when just free-revving? I found my rattles would only happen under load as the exhaust moves a bit more then especially since the mid pipe hanger is solid and attached to the transmission.

Yeah, I think part of the issue is the center support does not allow the exhaust to rock with the engine as much as you would think.l Mine only makes contact when there is a certain amount of load, usually over 1/4 throttle.

[mad_sb]

alright well, the only two place it could be touching are the driver side motor mount area (less than 1/8" clearance there) and the corner of the block... I loosened the center hangar, took loose the overpipe to header flange, put in new double gaskets (found an exact fit at oriley a good vibrant quality gasket, nice and thick with plenty of crush to it, will post part number latter) pulled everyting down while i tightened everything back up. It may have gotten me 1/16th on the pipe to head clearance.

I'm going to have to take the whole system off if it turns out to be the head to pipe area so i can hammer some clearance. If it turns out to be the motor mount area there is nothing i can do short of going at it with a cutoff wheel (EDIT: or a double gasket or spacer).... It would be a better idea to ditch the header at that point i think.

[Hawaiian]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

alright well, the only two place it could be touching are the driver side motor mount area (less than 1/8" clearance there) and the corner of the block... I loosened the center hangar, took loose the overpipe to header flange, put in new double gaskets (found an exact fit at oriley a good vibrant quality gasket, nice and thick with plenty of crush to it, will post part number latter) pulled everyting down while i tightened everything back up. It may have gotten me 1/16th on the pipe to head clearance.

I'm going to have to take the whole system off if it turns out to be the head to pipe area so i can hammer some clearance. If it turns out to be the motor mount area there is nothing i can do short of going at it with a cutoff wheel (EDIT: or a double gasket or spacer).... It would be a better idea to ditch the header at that point i think.

A quick option for you, rather than taking a hammer to shape things, you can get a foil tape and cover some of the areas you think it's rubbing. The tape will scuff up quickly enough to confirm where exactly it's making contact.

You can pick some up at a hardware store in the ducting section, it's used for sealing sheet metal for furnaces.

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by Hawaiian

A quick option for you, rather than taking a hammer to shape things, you can get a foil tape and cover some of the areas you think it's rubbing. The tape will scuff up quickly enough to confirm where exactly it's making contact.

You can pick some up at a hardware store in the ducting section, it's used for sealing sheet metal for furnaces.

right on, thats a good idea for sure, I was trying to think of a good wearable marking solution that would not burn off the instant the exhaust got hot.

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

put in new double gaskets (found an exact fit at oriley a good vibrant quality gasket, nice and thick with plenty of crush to it, will post part number latter)

interested in the part # when you find it.

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

interested in the part # when you find it.

will grab a pic on the way to work in about an hour and post

[choi0706]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

interested in the part # when you find it.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001804UBG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com: Vibrant 1457 2-Bolt High Temperature Exhaust Gasket: Automotive[/ame]

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E43BDK/ref=oh_details_o00_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com: Vibrant 1458 2-Bolt High Temperature Exhaust Gasket: Automotive[/ame]

[choi0706]

i was told to double up.. 3inch then 2.5inch..

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by choi0706

Amazon.com: Vibrant 1457 2-Bolt High Temperature Exhaust Gasket: Automotive

Amazon.com: Vibrant 1458 2-Bolt High Temperature Exhaust Gasket: Automotive

I don't think vibrant makes one that will fit the front pipebecause of the hole spacing but i could be wrong, the one i found is a perfect fit for 2.5" overpipes and can be found / ordered at any oriley autoparts for 1/2 what the vibrants cost.