Need Advice onFull Blown Stage 2 Turbo

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Brody602

Well I think I've finally come to a decent build that is more attainable and cost effective,

• FBM Base turbo kit with a GTX3076 upgrade with a .63 A/R backhousing ( @Sportsguy83 thanks for the help with turbo choice), 1000cc injector upgrade, ceramic coating, heat wrap, turbo blanket

•FBM Built block 9.0:1 Compression Ratio

•FBM oil cooler

•FBM catch can

•FBM Radiator upgrade

•Clutchmasters FX400

Goal = 450RWHP on 91 octane

What do you guys think?
@lexusb3 Thanks to you, I think it'll be safe to drive this monster at 450whp without too much concern for my stock differential/axles and what not!

I would swap the Clutchmasters for an ACT 6 puck, but other than that the build looks good to me.

[Brody602]

Originally Posted by King Tut

I would swap the Clutchmasters for an ACT 6 puck, but other than that the build looks good to me.

Alright, that was what fullblown recommended but originally I was thinking of ACT, I'm looking for something with. Stockish feel, don't want to have to put 50lbs of pressure on the pedal to engage the clutch lol!

Also the ACT is rated for 345 ft/lbs of torque, at 450whp I fell like I should be in the 350ft/lb torque area, will it hold?

Also can someone explain to me what the difference between a race clutch and a street clutch is?

Thanks!

[mike the snake]

Basically, a race clutch is more of an on-off switch. Street clutch feels like what you are used to driving with.

Race clutches can shudder and shake when actuating, and have less modulation. Once you get to where it starts to grab, there's not much more pedal movement before it's locked up. Usually you'll need to use higher rpm's and launch more aggressively. Race clutches however can usually hold more power and since they don't slip much, they produce less heat, and hold up under race conditions better.

[Brody602]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

Basically, a race clutch is more of an on-off switch. Street clutch feels like what you are used to driving with.

Race clutches can shudder and shake when actuating, and have less modulation. Once you get to where it starts to grab, there's not much more pedal movement before it's locked up. Usually you'll need to use higher rpm's and launch more aggressively. Race clutches however can usually hold more power and since they don't slip much, they produce less heat, and hold up under race conditions better.

Thanks for the explination! So essentially it would be more ideal to lunch the car with a race clutch, and due to the design it can take more abuse to speak since it's leas gradual?

[mike the snake]

With a race clutch, it will be harder to softly take off in 1st gear. Chances are it'll shake or shudder, and if you're not aggressive enough it's very easy to stall, that's all. I wouldn't say you need to launch the car every time, but you might have to take off in 1st at higher revs and more quickly.
Since race clutches grab so suddenly, they don't spend any time slipping, so they tend to not make as much heat.

Street clutch usually has a fully round clutch disk and operates much more like the stock clutch, easier to drive, but can't handle huge torque. Street clutches slip more when smoothly taking off so they make more heat. If overpowered by torque, they slip and make LOTS of heat.

From what I've gathered, our cars don't make that much torque even when FI, so aftermarket street clutches are OK for most FI unless you're going for BIG power.

[Brody602]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

With a race clutch, it will be harder to softly take off in 1st gear. Chances are it'll shake or shudder, and if you're not aggressive enough it's very easy to stall, that's all. I wouldn't say you need to launch the car every time, but you might have to take off in 1st at higher revs and more quickly.
Since race clutches grab so suddenly, they don't spend any time slipping, so they tend to not make as much heat.

Street clutch usually has a fully round clutch disk and operates much more like the stock clutch, easier to drive, but can't handle huge torque. Street clutches slip more when smoothly taking off so they make more heat. If overpowered by torque, they slip and make LOTS of heat.

From what I've gathered, our cars don't make that much torque even when FI, so aftermarket street clutches are OK for most FI unless you're going for BIG power.

Would you consider my 450whp goal and probably 340-370ft/lb torque "BIG POWER"?

[mike the snake]

From reading here, I would say you'll need more than the street clutch. I would go with what Full Blown suggests or one of the other outfits that have already made this power.

[Dipstik-sportech]

Yeah the fx400 or the act equivalent is absolutely necessary at over 250whp. More canuck full blowners!!! More maple syrup 91!!! Lol. At this point 450whp is anywhere from decent to mint power

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[Brody602]

Originally Posted by Dipstik-sportech

Yeah the fx400 or the act equivalent is absolutely necessary at over 250whp. More canuck full blowners!!! More maple syrup 91!!! Lol. At this point 450whp is anywhere from decent to mint power

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

How much stiffer is the fx400 clutch compared to stock?

[pmccut]

I have the FX300 on mine and it's definitely exactly as @mike the snake described a 'race' clutch. You'll need to give it a lot more revs to get it going without shudder. Pedal is significantly heavier.

Stock clutch = finger pressure
Exedy stage 1 = 2x pressure (still really light)
Fx300 = really freakin stiff

I assume fx400 is even worse.

[extreme-86]

I would also look into Clutchmasters new FX350 clutch for high torque applications.

http://clutchmasters.com/index.php?m...v_products.tpl

Had a CM FX400 on a FWD Nissan SR20DET once, and it was quite stiff and needed careful modulation. I am currently running a CM Hybrid Twin-Disk on my turbo Civic and for a twin-disk its amazingly smooth and manageable.

In my experience the most user friendly "high torque" clutches re the Exedy units, they just seem to offer a great combination of light pedal, smoothness and torque capacity.

[dabocx]

I find the fx300 really easy to drive, the petal still takes nothing to push in compared to other cars ive driven.

[pmccut]

Originally Posted by extreme-86

I would also look into Clutchmasters new FX350 clutch for high torque applications.

http://clutchmasters.com/index.php?m...v_products.tpl

Had a CM FX400 on a FWD Nissan SR20DET once, and it was quite stiff and needed careful modulation. I am currently running a CM Hybrid Twin-Disk on my turbo Civic and for a twin-disk its amazingly smooth and manageable.

In my experience the most user friendly "high torque" clutches re the Exedy units, they just seem to offer a great combination of light pedal, smoothness and torque capacity.

From what I've seen the FX300 = FX350. They don't list the 300 at all on their site, but the FX350 part # they list is the FX300 that everyone seems to sell. Box says 300. It seems silly. There does seem to be a lot of selection for the FX400 (4-puck ceramic, 6-puck ceramic, and sprung full-face ceramic), so I'd be curious to see how the three compare.

Originally Posted by dabocx

I find the fx300 really easy to drive, the petal still takes nothing to push in compared to other cars ive driven.

I've only driven cars with stock clutches, so I was quite shocked to feel the difference. The stock clutch is ridiculously light and easy to drive, so 2x, 3x stock pressure isn't a big deal. This definitely feels like more than that to me. Everyone who's driven my car has given me a 'WTF your clutch is sh#t how do you drive it speech'

It's definitely gotten easier since break-in, but I would never look forward to driving it in stop-n-go

[dabocx]

Hmm now im wondering whats up because mine is literally not noticeable compared to stock. I actually was thinking of upgrading to the 400 because I wanted it to be more difficult