BRZ/FR-S Strut Tower Brace - Any Interest?

[DGMBRZ]

Thanks Chase!!!

[Pedalincircles]

Do you have the weight specs for the strut bar?

[GrimmSpeed]

Originally Posted by Pedalincircles

Do you have the weight specs for the strut bar?

Just weighed a finished bar: 3.95lbs

Chase
Engineering

[RazBRZ]

Sounds good. I was just checking and I like to bust balls. To quote Tom Petty, "the waiting is the hardest part".

[J MaM 86]

Add me to the list please

[exequtor1987]

Hmm, looks really nice. Please add me to the list. Thanks!

[SkAsphalt]

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

Just weighed a finished bar: 3.95lbs

Chase
Engineering

Whoa whoa whoa, that is almost 4 pounds! *says a 268 pounds man*

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

I dunno Cap'n can you? I remind you that you are a married man!

But but but...... its because......
RACE CAR!!!

[ziptiedae86]

+1 for black, please

[BagOfArms]

Please put me in for a red one. Thanks!

[GrimmSpeed]

Originally Posted by J MaM 86

Add me to the list please

Will do, I've got you added now.

Originally Posted by exequtor1987

Hmm, looks really nice. Please add me to the list. Thanks!

Certainly will, you're in!

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

But but but...... its because......
RACE CAR!!!

You let me know if that excuse works

Originally Posted by ziptiedae86

+1 for black, please

I'll add you up right now!

Originally Posted by BagOfArms

Please put me in for a red one. Thanks!

I've got you added to the list, thanks!

Chase
Engineering

[stratodyne]

So this strut tower bar can be installed and function properly without having to jack the car up? I've always wondered whether to install these while under load or not. I guess since the factory triangulation bar is already in place, it is safe to install this with the car on the ground, thus only taking a few minutes?

I've never installed one of these before (also don't own a torque wrench ), but I'd be interested in picking one up if I could confidently install it myself

Originally Posted by Vracer111

Loosen the 4 nuts from the 2 studs on the diagonal braces on the strut tower end and remove, tie wrap AC line to fuel line per given instructions, put strut tower brace into position on studs, reinstall and tighten the 4 nuts (torquing to 12 lbft).... that's it.

[GrimmSpeed]

Originally Posted by stratodyne

So this strut tower bar can be installed and function properly without having to jack the car up? I've always wondered whether to install these while under load or not. I guess since the factory triangulation bar is already in place, it is safe to install this with the car on the ground, thus only taking a few minutes?

I've never installed one of these before (also don't own a torque wrench ), but I'd be interested in picking one up if I could confidently install it myself

Yes, it can be installed with ordinary hand tools on the ground without jacking up the car. An install guide IS COMING, but you'll basically need: a 12mm socket, ratchet, torque wrench, and something to trim the zipties (I recommend a side-cutter, but a scissors works as well).

I HIGHLY recommend a torque wrench. Actually, I'd even say don't even try this install no matter how easy it seems without a torque wrench. Those studs are pressed in, and should you break one, you are going to end up spending a lot of time replacing it. I have had the hardware on those studs on and off and torqued literally hundreds of times without any problem. Definitely not trying to scare anyone, but I really want to stress the importance of not over-torquing these studs. It'll make your 5 minute install turn into a weekend project in no-time.

Just to give you an idea of what the torque spec is like: A 95th percentile male can exert a maximum of about 10ft-lbs using only a screwdriver (depending on handle size). This is not far off from the 12ft-lbs recommended for those studs, and it should give you an idea of how little torque is actually required. However, someone using a regular 8in long ratchet can easily double or triple that torque figure if they're not paying attention, and SNAP!

Personally, car guy to car guy: I have a very nice expensive torque wrench, and a very cheap one (think $15 dollar range). The nice one is for building motors, and other things where I want it to be accurate within a ft-lb or two, and the cheap torque wrench is for when I know when I can get away with being off a bit. If you're not ready to buy the nice one yet, a cheap one will do, and you will be better safe than sorry. Plus you get to buy a new tool!

Chase
Engineering

[stratodyne]

Recommend me a good starter torque wrench (for this install, as well as torquing lugs) and then add me to this list for a black one, thanks!

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

Yes, it can be installed with ordinary hand tools on the ground without jacking up the car. An install guide IS COMING, but you'll basically need: a 12mm socket, ratchet, torque wrench, and something to trim the zipties (I recommend a side-cutter, but a scissors works as well).

I HIGHLY recommend a torque wrench. Actually, I'd even say don't even try this install no matter how easy it seems without a torque wrench. Those studs are pressed in, and should you break one, you are going to end up spending a lot of time replacing it. I have had the hardware on those studs on and off and torqued literally hundreds of times without any problem. Definitely not trying to scare anyone, but I really want to stress the importance of not over-torquing these studs. It'll make your 5 minute install turn into a weekend project in no-time.

Just to give you an idea of what the torque spec is like: A 95th percentile male can exert a maximum of about 10ft-lbs using only a screwdriver (depending on handle size). This is not far off from the 12ft-lbs recommended for those studs, and it should give you an idea of how little torque is actually required. However, someone using a regular 8in long ratchet can easily double or triple that torque figure if they're not paying attention, and SNAP!

Personally, car guy to car guy: I have a very nice expensive torque wrench, and a very cheap one (think $15 dollar range). The nice one is for building motors, and other things where I want it to be accurate within a ft-lb or two, and the cheap torque wrench is for when I know when I can get away with being off a bit. If you're not ready to buy the nice one yet, a cheap one will do, and you will be better safe than sorry. Plus you get to buy a new tool!

Chase
Engineering