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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ


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Old 01-02-2016, 11:18 PM   #71
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These valves look dangerous. I'll stick with a magnetic plug.

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Old 01-03-2016, 12:31 AM   #72
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I'm pretty sure that you need the F-108 for the FRS/BRZ and not the F-106.
Yup. Shit. Shame on me for not verifying.
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Old 01-03-2016, 12:54 AM   #73
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These valves look dangerous. I'll stick with a magnetic plug.

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Yea, as well as probably not getting all the fluid out of the car, there's an obvious reason imho why the factory and engineers don't make a valve for the oil drain instead of bolt.
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Old 01-03-2016, 01:35 AM   #74
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Yea, as well as probably not getting all the fluid out of the car, there's an obvious reason imho why the factory and engineers don't make a valve for the oil drain instead of bolt.
I'm baiting a little but what is the obvious reason? Don't worry, I'm not an internet d!ck.
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Old 01-03-2016, 01:56 AM   #75
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I'm baiting a little but what is the obvious
reason? Don't worry, I'm not an internet d!ck.
More Points of failure i.e. valve could get knocked open even with a dust cover. Also it's been proven wrong quite a few times but on some cars the threads on the valve don't always sit flush with the bottom of the pan meaning it doesn't fully drain all the oil out. But personally it probably won't stop me from getting one in the future.
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Old 01-03-2016, 02:25 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN View Post
More Points of failure i.e. valve could get knocked open even with a dust cover. Also it's been proven wrong quite a few times but on some cars the threads on the valve don't always sit flush with the bottom of the pan meaning it doesn't fully drain all the oil out. But personally it probably won't stop me from getting one in the future.
I've read about the long-thread concerns. My take, engines have plenty of nooks & crannies where oil pools by design. Zero stress over an ounce of leftovers.

Your points-of-failure argument is valid but that's not why cars don't come from the factory with one. They would be an expensive feature that maybe 1% of buyers would even notice. If the market wanted oil sump drain valves, manufacturers would compete with each other over the best way to incorporate them.
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Old 01-03-2016, 02:29 AM   #77
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Oh, and once I get mine, I'll be measuring and cutting back threads as needed.
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:41 PM   #78
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To take bolts off. I find I break fewer than if I use an even longer breaker bar.
It's the only reason I bought a Milwaukee 1/2" 1000 ft lbs rated impact wrench lol.

I also find that impacts snap bolts less frequently than a long breaker bar. It probably has something to do with short hammering bursts vs. large constant torque.
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:55 PM   #79
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@Ultramaroon 's old torque wrench ......

You see, Ultramaroon, I figure it this way. The old torque wrenches may have lost some of their tension ...... but, we have lost some of our wrenching strength ....... so, I figure it all equals out .....


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No, No, no Hum they were talking about a torque wrench. That is clearly a torque wench.


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Old 01-04-2016, 01:16 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by dys586 View Post
I'm pretty sure that you need the F-108 for the FRS/BRZ and not the F-106.
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Yup. Shit. Shame on me for not verifying.
aww dammit, sorry boys, i didn't look which one i navigated too and for once amazon didn't remind me "hey dumbass this won't fit on your car."
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:18 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN View Post
More Points of failure i.e. valve could get knocked open even with a dust cover. Also it's been proven wrong quite a few times but on some cars the threads on the valve don't always sit flush with the bottom of the pan meaning it doesn't fully drain all the oil out. But personally it probably won't stop me from getting one in the future.
if you've used the valve you would know there is no real way for it to open without manual intervention. However they do offer a safety clip on top if you're truly concerned. The people who have issues tend to have them because they over torque the drain plug and if the plug doesn't sit flush, I wouldn't worry about what little doesn't get drained, the new filter will take care of that
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:16 PM   #82
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aww dammit, sorry boys, i didn't look which one i navigated too and for once amazon didn't remind me "hey dumbass this won't fit on your car."
Anyone need an F106? I have a spare.

Actually, I haven't received either yet. I'm sure I can return it. No worries.
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:17 PM   #83
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I don't think anyone will poke fun at you as there are 2 types of wrenchers, those who have mangled a simple fastener, and liars.

This is the Truth, my nemesis is the transmission pan bolts; thank you Heli-Coil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KR-S 86 View Post
So, while we're on the subject of torque wrenches, how's a Craftsman torque wrench? Though my brother has a torque wrench (Craftsman as well), I'm certain that it's out of calibration and I would rather have my own anyway.

They are much nicer than the Tractor Supply and AutoZone Torque Wrenches in my tool box.

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To take bolts off. I find I break fewer than if I use an even longer breaker bar.

Breaker Bar + Dead Blow Hammer = Win
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:20 PM   #84
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This is the Truth, my nemesis is the transmission pan bolts; thank you Heli-Coil.
Right? I have half-used packs of 5, 6, and 8 mm sitting on the shelf.

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