Please help. Lots of engine code errors.

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Here's my standard trick. Without removing any of the coil packs, disconnect each one and listen for the idle to drop. If it does, reconnect and move on because that one is ok. When you disconnect the bad one the engine won't run any rougher. Make sense?

The packs are way down just inboard of the frame rails. The connectors stick out the rear-facing side of each coil pack. It's tight down there but, while the engine is cold, practice disconnecting one and then see if you can plug them in just shy of clipping them. Then you can disconnect it, decide, and then reconnect it if it's good.

Do you have pictures? What does the frame rail look like? On the drivers side I see the injectors on the top covered by the black metal thing.

If you're free today I'm home if you'd like to help me. If so PM me and I'll give you my info. If you're not free then no worries.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

Do you have pictures?

Sorry, I'm in the middle of installing new struts in my wife's camry.

These are the coil packs. You'll recognize what I'm calling the frame rails when you locate the coil packs on your engine.

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Sorry, I'm in the middle of installing new struts in my wife's camry.

These are the coil packs. You'll recognize what I'm calling the frame rails when you locate the coil packs on your engine.

Found the coil packs before your picture, but now I know for sure that's what they were. I was able to barely squeeze my hand down there to unplug them one by one. The only one that didn't change the idle was the drivers side closest to the front.

Does this mean I have a bad coil pack? If so why would it have failed back on the morning of July 1st, then be ok up until this morning?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

Found the coil packs before your picture, but now I know for sure that's what they were. I was able to barely squeeze my hand down there to unplug them one by one. The only one that didn't change the idle was the drivers side closest to the front.

Does this mean I have a bad coil pack? If so why would it have failed back on the morning of July 1st, then be ok up until this morning?

Edit: It means that cylinder is already not firing.

99.5% of the time, intermittent failures are cracked solder joints or other component connections that move relative to each other during expansion and contraction of thermal cycling.

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Yes, that coil pack has failed. We refer to this as an intermittent failure because it comes and goes.

99.5% of the time, intermittent failures are cracked solder joints or other component connections that move relative to each other during expansion and contraction of thermal cycling.

So I should order a new coil pack then? Would you say a Subaru one or do they make mo' betta ones that are aftermarket?

Could it also be a fried spark plug? and is the spark plug inside the tube where the coil pack is and to get to the spark plug I'd need to remove the coil pack first? Should I change both?

All this makes me wish my debt was paid off and I have my BMW i3 still. I'll be getting an electric car for sure after I pay my shiz off.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

So I should order a new coil pack then? Would you say a Subaru one or do they make mo' betta ones that are aftermarket?

I imagine it was a premature failure so I would just replace the one with a new OEM one. I"m guessing Denso.

If the car had 100 Kmi then I would recommend replacing all 4 because they are like light bulbs. They have a certain life expectancy, give or take. In that case, I might just go with some aftermarket ones.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

Could it also be a fried spark plug? and is the spark plug inside the tube where the coil pack is and to get to the spark plug I'd need to remove the coil pack first? Should I change both?

Def not the plug. Once we got away from carburettors, combustion chamber conditions became much more controlled. I quit messing with conventional spark plugs. The set in my Eclipse were perfectly serviceable after 100K. Not really burned so just gapped and reinstalled them.

When I replaced the coil packs on my daughter's Acura, I pulled one of the iridium-tipped plugs just to check. At 150K, it was practically new.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

I just started my car today for the first time since last night. I'm getting similar engine codes are I was back on July 1st. Not sure why it ran fine late July 1st until now.
Engine codes:
P0202
P0032
P0033
P0034
P0037
P0038

I look at the engine and everything looks ok. WTF is going wrong? I don't want my car to stop working before next Sunday's 86 meet!!!

look up all those codes on internet google the code number plus subaru
eg p0200 subaru.

they are for injectors o2sensors heater circuits.

i think you have an electrical problem
crook or dying battery or crook alternator causing voltage fluctiuations rearly weird stuff happens in modern cars if voltages not stable.

or you have a intermittent short in wirinig to 02 sensors maybe melted ect

check your fuses for 02sensor heater circuits, check the 02 sensors are actually plugged in correctly.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

I just started my car today for the first time since last night. I'm getting similar engine codes are I was back on July 1st. Not sure why it ran fine late July 1st until now.
Engine codes:
P0202
P0032
P0033
P0034
P0037
P0038

I look at the engine and everything looks ok. WTF is going wrong? I don't want my car to stop working before next Sunday's 86 meet!!!

look up all those codes on internet google the code number plus subaru
eg p0202 subaru.

they are for injectors o2sensors heater circuits.

i think you have an electrical problem
crook or dying battery or crook alternator causing voltage fluctiuations rearly weird stuff happens in modern cars if voltages not stable.

check earth connections check battery and alternator connections, measure volts when car is running should be stable 14 v or close to that.

or you have a intermittent short in wirinig to 02 sensors maybe melted ect

check your fuses for 02sensor heater circuits, check the 02 sensors are actually plugged in correctly.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by steve99

look up all those codes on internet google the code number plus subaru
eg p0200 subaru.

they are for injectors o2sensors heater circuits.

i think you have an electrical problem
crook or dying battery or crook alternator causing voltage fluctiuations rearly weird stuff happens in modern cars if voltages not stable.

or you have a intermittent short in wirinig to 02 sensors maybe melted ect

check your fuses for 02sensor heater circuits, check the 02 sensors are actually plugged in correctly.

Oh, if the codes don't point to a simple misfire, then, yeah. I wouldn't go for the o2 sensor because that wouldn't cause a single cylinder misfire.

A dead injector or driver circuit would correspond to a dry misfiring cylinder which would drive the o2 level high because it's just an air compressor.

...probably not the igniter. -____-

[stockysnail]

I don't think I've ever changed a coil pack or distributor before, only spark plugs. We shall see if I can find one tomorrow at a dealer, get my tools up there and get the new one in. It's really tight.

Checked the battery and it has the correct voltage. Checked all the wires on the o2 and maf and various other areas like coil packs and they all look tight and stable. I'll check the fuses inside the cabin and let you guys know if I see anything amiss.

Would you say don't drive my car until I get the new one installed? Wondering if I should drive it to get parts and to work or work from home.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

I don't think I've ever changed a coil pack or distributor before, only spark plugs. We shall see if I can find one tomorrow at a dealer, get my tools up there and get the new one in. It's really tight.

Would you say don't drive my car until I get the new one installed? Wondering if I should drive it to get parts and to work or work from home.

Definitely no drive. @steve99 checked your codes. I assumed you had already done that.

P0202 is a dead giveaway and fits with the misfiring cylinder. Injector or circuit.

[Ultramaroon]

@steve99, are there fuses for each injector driver or is it just one fuse?

If there's just one fuse, I'm going to suspect bad port injector. Swap #2 and #4 injectors and see if the code changes to a P0204.

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Definitely no drive. @steve99 checked your codes. I assumed you had already done that.

P0202 is a dead giveaway and fits with the misfiring cylinder. Injector or circuit.

P0202 is the first code I get every time after clearing the codes.