PLM Long Tube Header

[KoolBRZ]

As seen in this thread, http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89680 , there is now an adapter flange to mate up the 3" PLM header to an aftermarket 2.5" overpipe.

I got my dyno's done and am underwhelmed again. Today I determined I'm going to install this adapter flange and stop the leaks for good. I got pics before the removal. I have lots of overpipe clearance, but just one thing won't clear, the flange pipe into the 2.5" overpipe.

See pics below, I had to cut the pipe flush with the flange, then grind down to make the pipe lip flush, then sand and sand to get rid of the gouges I made in the flange while cutting the pipe. Notice how shiny the flange is now? There is about 1/4" of play in the flanges once the bolts are through all three plus the 2 gaskets. The bolt holes will not line up with a stock overpipe, but only an idiot would mate a 3" header to a 2.25" stock overpipe. I used a shorter bolt on the inside of the header curve, and a longer bolt on the top, outside of the curve.

I didn't have an assistant, so there isn't any video, but I got some good pics. If anything my overpipe has even more clearance then it did before. I have before and after clearance pics if you're interested. It really only applies if you also have an inexpensive, Top Speed Pro 1 Overpipe. How does it work? Great, now the only time I smell my exhaust is when I open a door or a window. I'm sure it flows a lot better too.

[Decay107]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

As seen in this thread, http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89680 , there is now an adapter flange to mate up the 3" PLM header to an aftermarket 2.5" overpipe.

I got my dyno's done and am underwhelmed again. Today I determined I'm going to install this adapter flange and stop the leaks for good. I got pics before the removal. I have lots of overpipe clearance, but just one thing won't clear, the flange pipe into the 2.5" overpipe.

See pics below, I had to cut the pipe flush with the flange, then grind down to make the pipe lip flush, then sand and sand to get rid of the gouges I made in the flange while cutting the pipe. Notice how shiny the flange is now? There is about 1/4" of play in the flanges once the bolts are through all three plus the 2 gaskets. The bolt holes will not line up with a stock overpipe, but only an idiot would mate a 3" header to a 2.25" stock overpipe. I used a shorter bolt on the inside of the header curve, and a longer bolt on the top, outside of the curve.

I didn't have an assistant, so there isn't any video, but I got some good pics. If anything my overpipe has even more clearance then it did before. I have before and after clearance pics if you're interested. It really only applies if you also have an inexpensive, Top Speed Pro 1 Overpipe. How does it work? Great, now the only time I smell my exhaust is when I open a door or a window. I'm sure it flows a lot better too.

I'd be interested in seeing if this offers any gains.

[KoolBRZ]

Originally Posted by Decay107

I'd be interested in seeing if this offers any gains.

Not any gains compared to a 3" overpipe, but since those are real hard to come by for automatics, it definitely is more efficient then a flat lip, reducing from 3" to 2.375". It also makes sealing with gaskets straightforward and leak proof. The extra .25" thickness fit just fine with my aftermarket over and front pipes. If anything , I have even more clearance now. In addition, it is much cheaper than a 3" overpipe.

[Starkiller]

I purchased one of these headers knowing full well what I was getting myself into. Lol. I'm still confident that it will be a good value for the money. I had the same gripes as everyone else about the roughness of the flanges, the lack of interior welds on where the runners meet the flanges and the fact that it is a three inch collector and flange where almost every overpipe on the market is 2.5". I decided to reduce it down to a 2.5" flange, plane the flanges and fill in the lack of interior welds and port it. Here it is...





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkoryopu

[steve99]

since this is pretty will a nameless

posted up some cam tables for namless plm headers in OFT tune Tweaks thread below

They will get you in ballpark and probably better than the standard oft EL tables, but you may need to make other adjustments to fueling and ignition timing to get max benefit.

some their for ACE header as well.

[Shady195]

Originally Posted by steve99

since this is pretty will a nameless

posted up some cam tables for namless plm headers in OFT tune Tweaks thread below

They will get you in ballpark and probably better than the standard oft EL tables, but you may need to make other adjustments to fueling and ignition timing to get max benefit.

some their for ACE header as well.

Thanks @steve99

Edited all my tables, going to flash and check it out when I get home tonight.

[Cross]

I'm getting ready to dyno mine now that it's completely done and supercharged but I'm still happy with the header.

I did feel like there was more in it na on E85 but I knew I would be going back to FI so I didn't worry much about it. Looks like you guys have been making some great progress.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[KoolBRZ]

Originally Posted by steve99

since this is pretty well a nameless

posted up some cam tables for nameless plm headers in OFT tune Tweaks thread below

They will get you in ballpark and probably better than the standard oft EL tables, but you may need to make other adjustments to fueling and ignition timing to get max benefit.

some their for ACE header as well.

Well you know I can't just leave well enough alone, because this didn't run well enough in my opinion. I did some Open Road Tuning and tweaking of the Intake and Exhaust Safe tables, and here is what I've come up with. It has more power up top, and more torque down low, it's just the middle that's aggravating. The flat spot is hardly noticeable in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd, but in 4th it feels a bit sluggish from about 3200 - 4000. Here's some pics of the final tables I've come up with.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

Well you know I can't just leave well enough alone, because this didn't run well enough in my opinion. I did some Open Road Tuning and tweaking of the Intake and Exhaust Safe tables, and here is what I've come up with. It has more power up top, and more torque down low, it's just the middle that's aggravating. The flat spot is hardly noticeable in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd, but in 4th it feels a bit sluggish from about 3200 - 4000. Here's some pics of the final tables I've come up with.

Thanks for testing that will update the tune tweaks tables

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Shady195

Thanks @steve99

Edited all my tables, going to flash and check it out when I get home tonight.

see the updated from @KoolBRZ 's testing above

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

I did some Open Road Tuning and tweaking of the Intake and Exhaust Safe tables, and here is what I've come up with.

You ought to look at the area around 1200 RPM @ 0.8 load and above on the Exhaust map. Having the table drop to 0 isn't likely to help I know you won't hit those loads regularly but either set the row above to 0 or set that to 5/7/10. The system won't be able to accurately do that anyway, it's too much too quickly.

[Lithium]

Sorry this has taken so long guys; last few weeks have been quite busy. Also I must apologize for directing you to this page and not the direct video link. What can I say its how the world works these days....

check out my latest post to see how the PLM header did on the dyno. Over all I'm happy with the product.

http://seefeldtmotorsports.blogspot.com/

[shu5892001]

Originally Posted by Lithium

Sorry this has taken so long guys; last few weeks have been quite busy. Also I must apologize for directing you to this page and not the direct video link. What can I say its how the world works these days....

check out my latest post to see how the PLM header did on the dyno. Over all I'm happy with the product.

http://seefeldtmotorsports.blogspot.com/

Is the baseline with header and no tune? Or no header and no tune.

Thanks

[KoolBRZ]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

You ought to look at the area around 1200 RPM @ 0.8 load and above on the Exhaust map. Having the table drop to 0 isn't likely to help I know you won't hit those loads regularly but either set the row above to 0 or set that to 5/7/10. The system won't be able to accurately do that anyway, it's too much too quickly.

I'll try it, but, I've completely thrown logical thinking out the windows where adjusting the Intake and Exhaust safe tables are concerned. I have better tables tried and proven for low end torque, but any changes I make to the high end make the flat spot worse. I'll post what I have after I try this.