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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.


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Old 04-06-2015, 09:09 PM   #15
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another option could be to look at the Kics R40 or R40 Iconix style lug nuts where the socket may be able to go on the extended part of the lug nut.

ETA: you could also look at something like the Volk Racing - Rays Formula lug nut.

you would need to check the dimensions on each of them.

I can refer you to a couple good vendors if you want, just PM me.
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:09 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by ZOMFGAARON View Post
Your point?


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my point is problems like this don't happen with real wheels
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:54 AM   #17
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:)

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my point is problems like this don't happen with real wheels
Yup
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Old 04-07-2015, 11:13 AM   #18
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Holy shit look at the weight of these things!!

Approximate Wheel Weight: 18x8.5 = 27lbs 18x9.5= 28lbs.

http://esmwheels.com/index.php?route...product_id=116
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Old 04-07-2015, 12:00 PM   #19
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The cheap wheel debate seems to be never ending. I'm not tracking the car, I have my motorcycle for that. I love the style and I like the wheels that ESM makes. I'm aware of the weight and I knew that going into it. If I wanted a more conservative wheel with performance in mind I would have purchased those.

If I wanted the "real" versions of these wheels I would be waiting quite a long time. $750/wheel is, a little out of my budget. I'm happy with the product and happy with the way it looks. The car drives nicely and has the appearance I was going for.

The fix for my issue is cheap and easy as I've now discovered so I'm not going to sweat bullets about it.
@jetlex thanks for the suggestion I did end up pulling the trigger on the gorilla ones as they were about 33 bucks shipped, should do the trick but thanks anyways!
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Old 04-07-2015, 02:30 PM   #20
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cheap wheels are cheap
This is not a cheap wheel problem. This is a wheel design problem, mostly done before when dual-drill wheels were very popular on the market.

-alex
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Old 04-07-2015, 05:03 PM   #21
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This is not a cheap wheel problem. This is a wheel design problem, mostly done before when dual-drill wheels were very popular on the market.

-alex
this is a cheap wheel problem. cheap wheels dual-drill in the first place so they don't have to make the same wheel in 2 different bolt patterns. keeps the cost down even though it looks horrible.
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Old 04-07-2015, 05:31 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by adamg View Post
this is a cheap wheel problem. cheap wheels dual-drill in the first place so they don't have to make the same wheel in 2 different bolt patterns. keeps the cost down even though it looks horrible.
So tell me:

What lug nuts do you use for a (now discontinued)Work Meister S2R 2-piece forged wheel?

Please, tell me. I'd like to know.

-alex

Edit: choice of wheel meant to illustrate that this is a design problem, not a cheap wheel problem. See exhibit A w/ "tuner" lugs, picture found on the internet:

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Old 04-07-2015, 05:40 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by mav1178 View Post
So tell me:

What lug nuts do you use for a (now discontinued)Work Meister S2R 2-piece forged wheel?

Please, tell me. I'd like to know.

-alex

Edit: choice of wheel meant to illustrate that this is a design problem, not a cheap wheel problem. See exhibit A w/ "tuner" lugs, picture found on the internet:

Coincidentally, that is the same wheel that I previously owned and had to use the "tuner" style lugs.

[note: not that exact set]
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Old 04-07-2015, 05:48 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by mav1178 View Post
So tell me:

What lug nuts do you use for a (now discontinued)Work Meister S2R 2-piece forged wheel?

Please, tell me. I'd like to know.

-alex

Edit: choice of wheel meant to illustrate that this is a design problem, not a cheap wheel problem. See exhibit A w/ "tuner" lugs, picture found on the internet:
no it is a cheap wheel problem because its dual drilled and they cant fit both sets of holes to the full size recommended for standard lugs/nuts. the primary holes are 5x114.3 and normal lugs work. they add 5x100 holes so they can sell the wheels to more people, but then you have to get creative with what lugs you can run. This wheels intended development was for cars that are 5x114.3 since they take up most of the market. but keep arguing its fun.
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Old 04-07-2015, 05:53 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamg View Post
no it is a cheap wheel problem because its dual drilled and they cant fit both sets of holes to the full size recommended for standard lugs/nuts. the primary holes are 5x114.3 and normal lugs work. they add 5x100 holes so they can sell the wheels to more people, but then you have to get creative with what lugs you can run. This wheels intended development was for cars that are 5x114.3 since they take up most of the market. but keep arguing its fun.
Yes, it's fun.

Dual drilled without tuner lug hole issue:



-alex
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:48 PM   #26
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Really just seems to be hit or miss depending on the wheel company. Thats a pretty good example as its kind of hard to talk bad game on enkei as it seems as though 50% of car people have rpf1's on their cars.

When you are selling wheels for $2k+ it seems as though everything is custom made anyway that can do whatever they hell they want. I got a quote a couple months back for some work meisters (my dream wheels) and it had all the perfect specs and whatnot but it would have set me back 3.2K

I'd love to not deal with this issue but I'm not in a position to spend a ton of money on wheels (not alone here). And as I'm not building a race car here, I'm very content with my wheel selection
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:25 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by srizzors25 View Post
Really just seems to be hit or miss depending on the wheel company. Thats a pretty good example as its kind of hard to talk bad game on enkei as it seems as though 50% of car people have rpf1's on their cars.

When you are selling wheels for $2k+ it seems as though everything is custom made anyway that can do whatever they hell they want. I got a quote a couple months back for some work meisters (my dream wheels) and it had all the perfect specs and whatnot but it would have set me back 3.2K

I'd love to not deal with this issue but I'm not in a position to spend a ton of money on wheels (not alone here). And as I'm not building a race car here, I'm very content with my wheel selection
That's kind of my point...

Tuner lug or small lug hole is entirely a design issue. You can dual drill it (or do a 9-hole wheel for 4x100/5x100 or 4x114.3/5x114.3) and use standard tapered lugs without a special key.

The special key (small lug opening) usually is a result of wheel DESIGN dictating the lug hole size and type. It is not because of a "cheap" wheel, because most cheap wheels designed for 5x114.3mm will not have any wheel backpad material between the lug holes to save on raw material cost.

True dual-drilled wheels are designed that way from the factory, and the lug holes were chosen on purpose, not because the wheels were cheap.

-alex
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