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| Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires. |
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#15 |
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another option could be to look at the Kics R40 or R40 Iconix style lug nuts where the socket may be able to go on the extended part of the lug nut.
ETA: you could also look at something like the Volk Racing - Rays Formula lug nut. you would need to check the dimensions on each of them. I can refer you to a couple good vendors if you want, just PM me. |
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#16 |
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Holy shit look at the weight of these things!!
Approximate Wheel Weight: 18x8.5 = 27lbs 18x9.5= 28lbs. http://esmwheels.com/index.php?route...product_id=116 |
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#19 |
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Daedalus Moto
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The cheap wheel debate seems to be never ending. I'm not tracking the car, I have my motorcycle for that. I love the style and I like the wheels that ESM makes. I'm aware of the weight and I knew that going into it. If I wanted a more conservative wheel with performance in mind I would have purchased those.
If I wanted the "real" versions of these wheels I would be waiting quite a long time. $750/wheel is, a little out of my budget. I'm happy with the product and happy with the way it looks. The car drives nicely and has the appearance I was going for. The fix for my issue is cheap and easy as I've now discovered so I'm not going to sweat bullets about it. @jetlex thanks for the suggestion I did end up pulling the trigger on the gorilla ones as they were about 33 bucks shipped, should do the trick but thanks anyways!
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#20 |
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#21 |
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this is a cheap wheel problem. cheap wheels dual-drill in the first place so they don't have to make the same wheel in 2 different bolt patterns. keeps the cost down even though it looks horrible.
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#22 | |
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Quote:
What lug nuts do you use for a (now discontinued)Work Meister S2R 2-piece forged wheel? Please, tell me. I'd like to know. -alex Edit: choice of wheel meant to illustrate that this is a design problem, not a cheap wheel problem. See exhibit A w/ "tuner" lugs, picture found on the internet:
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#23 | |
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Quote:
[note: not that exact set] |
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#24 | |
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Quote:
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#25 | |
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Quote:
Dual drilled without tuner lug hole issue: ![]() -alex |
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#26 |
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Really just seems to be hit or miss depending on the wheel company. Thats a pretty good example as its kind of hard to talk bad game on enkei as it seems as though 50% of car people have rpf1's on their cars.
When you are selling wheels for $2k+ it seems as though everything is custom made anyway that can do whatever they hell they want. I got a quote a couple months back for some work meisters (my dream wheels) and it had all the perfect specs and whatnot but it would have set me back 3.2K I'd love to not deal with this issue but I'm not in a position to spend a ton of money on wheels (not alone here). And as I'm not building a race car here, I'm very content with my wheel selection
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#27 | |
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Quote:
Tuner lug or small lug hole is entirely a design issue. You can dual drill it (or do a 9-hole wheel for 4x100/5x100 or 4x114.3/5x114.3) and use standard tapered lugs without a special key. The special key (small lug opening) usually is a result of wheel DESIGN dictating the lug hole size and type. It is not because of a "cheap" wheel, because most cheap wheels designed for 5x114.3mm will not have any wheel backpad material between the lug holes to save on raw material cost. True dual-drilled wheels are designed that way from the factory, and the lug holes were chosen on purpose, not because the wheels were cheap. -alex |
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