Accusump install

[crazyfrenchbiker]

Originally Posted by philooo

I am curious about the plumbing as well. And my biggest problem with the manual version is that it is indeed too much to remember. I think electric is the way to go. When you are about to get on the track or coming back from it, the last thing you want to do is going through a checklist for all the button you have to press.

PS: is that an AIM MXG dash ?

The plumbing is easy. It's a single oil line into the oil galley.

As mentioned in the thread already, we ensure the valve is closed when shutting off the engine. There's a gauge directly next to the valve which allows the driver to see the pressure in the sump.

And yes, that is the AIM MXG dash and it rocks!!!!

[crazyfrenchbiker]

Originally Posted by puma

can you post the link to Facebook or send it in PM?

It's mostly posted under this group.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/152742868183430/

[philooo]

can you post a picture of the MXG dash directly facing it, I am curious to see how it fits, I was considering an MXS...but if MXG fits..why the hell not if you have photo of the install I am curious as well !

About the accusump and the oil galley plug, I assume we are talking about the one located between the throttle and the ac compressor ?

If so, where did you plug your oil pressure sensor I see that you have a gauge in the driver side vent and would bet it is a pressure sensor, no ?

I am yet to see a setup with multiple things plugged to the oil galley.

I am about to install one on my car, and there is little information out there about where to plug these things aside of the main oil gallery plug.

[crazyfrenchbiker]

The fitment great. We left the stock cluster and mounted the dash to the column.



Yes, we are talking about the oil galley between the compressor and the TB. We deleted our AC Compressor so it made a lot more room.

The gauge in the vent is the wideband at the moment. We're still working on finishing up the wiring with the dash to the sending units, and we have not determined if the factory units will be able to be used. We're currently using the Hydra EMS and are hoping to be able to wire the dash to it for some of these sensors.

[LS1M]

(Sorry, for some reason I can't get the quote button to work.)

This confuses me:

If the car hasn't been started for a long time, you can open the valve prior to starting the car, this will help to bring oïl to the engine to avoid it running dry. You need to shut it back up before starting though because the pressure will take longer to build, this is important that the valve always be shut when you start the car.

Why is it important to shut the valve before starting? Are you worried about over-pressuring the accumulator when the oil is cold? The pressure in the accumulator will actually build very fast when the (cold) oil pressure is 120 psi. I would think you'd want to open the valve to pre-lube the engine and then just leave it open. Initially the accumulator will over-fill with oil but it'll push it out as the oil warms up & the oil pressure falls. Then rev up the engine & close the valve to capture pressure for the next time before you cut the engine off.

[philooo]

MXL hi-jack

the only thing that prevents me from mounting the dash in front of the cluster is the stupid pedal dance...without being able to see the two traction control light on the cluster I can't tell if it works...

how are you working around it ?

not being abel to see CEL light is also a bother...

only solution so far would be to wire special sensor on each of these light and get them on the AIM dash

sorry for the thread hi-jack LOL

[crazyfrenchbiker]

Originally Posted by philooo

MXL hi-jack

the only thing that prevents me from mounting the dash in front of the cluster is the stupid pedal dance...without being able to see the two traction control light on the cluster I can't tell if it works...

how are you working around it ?

not being abel to see CEL light is also a bother...

only solution so far would be to wire special sensor on each of these light and get them on the AIM dash

sorry for the thread hi-jack LOL

Traction and ABS is permanently disabled in this car. We do have an issue where the car applies 90% of the brakes to the front in this mode, so I definitely don't recommend it. We are about to replace the brake system with our own custom one.

We also left the fuel gauge on the dash, not in the new MXG, so we have to check behind the AIM periodically...

[puma]

@LS1M, the reason behind this is that you when you depressurize the accusump and you start the engine, all the pressure of the oil pump is used to fill the accumulator leaving less for the engine. Once the accumulator is full it will go to regular operating pressure but the building will take a lot more time.


What we usually do is to crack open the valve and let it fill slowly once the engine as reached it,s pressure (couple of seconds). You know how it takes a little while for the oil pressure to build when you start the car? Well if the valve is open, it will raise very slowly because on top of building the pressure in the engine it has to build the pressure in the accumulator at the same time. Same if you open it too quick, if it is empty, you can go from 70 PSI to 10 PSi and building slowly back up as the accumulator fills up.


Engine isn't going to seize from this but it is a better way of doing it to prevent low oil pressure.

[puma]

@crazyfrenchbiker, check out my build if you want to see an alternative to the stock master cylinder and booster on a race car application without changing the whole pedal assembly or calipers.

[LS1M]

Originally Posted by puma

@LS1M, the reason behind this is that you when you depressurize the accusump and you start the engine, all the pressure of the oil pump is used to fill the accumulator leaving less for the engine. Once the accumulator is full it will go to regular operating pressure but the building will take a lot more time.


What we usually do is to crack open the valve and let it fill slowly once the engine as reached it,s pressure (couple of seconds). You know how it takes a little while for the oil pressure to build when you start the car? Well if the valve is open, it will raise very slowly because on top of building the pressure in the engine it has to build the pressure in the accumulator at the same time. Same if you open it too quick, if it is empty, you can go from 70 PSI to 10 PSi and building slowly back up as the accumulator fills up.


Engine isn't going to seize from this but it is a better way of doing it to prevent low oil pressure.

The standard electric valve has a slow refill rate to prevent taking pressure away during startup. The manual valve and the electric one they sell with the pressure switch are both fast fill. All valves are fast discharge.

[puma]

well i don't know which manual valve you are talking about but on my system, all i have is a regular ball valve and it seems to be the same thing for crazyfrenchbiker.

They might make a special manual valve like you say which is pretty cool if it does exist but i didn't have that on mine.

[LS1M]

The manual valves are just plain valves. The electric one is the one with the restriction on the fill rate.


from http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html:


For applications where more convenience is desired or where it is difficult to access a manual valve lever a standard electric valve can be used. The standard electric valve is designed to slowly refill after any oil discharge and is ideal for 'daily drivers', boats, or an RVs. The electric valve can be opened and closed from a remote dash-mounted switch or it can be wired directly into the ignition so it will open and close automatically when the ignition is in the 'on' or the 'off' position. For high performance applications that require rapid refill and constant discharges we recommend the EPC electric valve listed below

[stugray]

There are a few different schools of thought on how to use an accusump.

There are a few advantages:
1 - to "save" an engine in the case of a catastrophic failure of the oil system (e.g. blown oil cooler)
2 - to "help" the oil system in cases where the oil supply may become intermittent (prolonged hard cornering that starves the oil pickup)
3 - to prelube/precharge the engine prior to startup

For #1 - save the engine
This is where the accusump extra capacity and built in pressure supply is used if the engine experiences a failure where oil pressure is lost and engine is at risk of total failure
In this case - where the accusump is plumbed in is key and installation of a reverse flow preventer (check valve) might be required.
Depending on where the failure occurs the accusump might be capable of providing a few extra seconds of full oil pressure to the engine bearings.
This is only if it is plumbed in downstream of the failure AND the oil does not flow backwards towards the failure when the accusump discharges.
Another thing to consider is how the driver responds to the failure.
If the accusump is plumbed in upstream of the oil pressure sensor (switch) and a failure occurs, then the accusump might not give any extra protection because it might just mask the failure for a few extra seconds and then be depleted by the time that the sensor detects low oil pressure and turns on the light.
This scenario is basically the same as having no accusump (as far as the engine is concerned) EXCEPT you had two extra quarts of oil to dump on the track before your light came on...
The best scenario would be that when the failure occurs the idiot light can detect the failure, notify the driver, THEN deploy the accusump to save the engine while the driver secures the vehicle.
For this case, one could argue that it would be better to drive with a charged accusump and the valve closed.
Then when the driver sees the light he would open the valve.

For #2 - help the system
Boxer engines in general are known for having a problem in high-G prolonged cornering where oil settles to one side of the engine (older engines like the 914/911 particularly) and even up in one head.
This causes oil starvation to the pickup and air can get sucked into the system causing low pressure and pressure spikes due to water hammering when the pumps primes again.
This would require the accusump to be "on" all the time to mitigate this.
It cant stop air from getting sucked in, but it can "smooth" the pressure spikes.
An electric valve that senses the low pressure would only respond in the low pressure case, but otherwise sit charged doing nothing.
A manual valve system provides more of a constant pressure to the engine the entire time and acts like a pressure/volume "reservoir".

For #3 - precharge the system
This is the most obvious use where the system is filled/charged with the engine running then the valve is closed prior to engine shutdown.
It is then waiting charged for the next time the engine is started where the driver opens the valve and waits for oil pressure to register before starting the engine.
With the manual valve this only works about 1/2 the time because it is up to the driver to remember to close the valve before shutting down the engine.

An example of a disadvantage of an accusump is: leaving the valve open and shutting down the engine can overfill the engine by a few quarts.
A severely overfilled boxer can actually hydrolock and destroy an engine on restart.

Which system is for you? Depends on how you intend to use it.

[puma]

yeah i was afraid the extra oil might be too much in the boxer, on our Honda engine that wasn't a concern but i don't know how much more oil the pan can take on the boxer before it hydrolock the engine.