2015 Engine differences

[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

It looks that the FA20 engine was revised lately. I found the following differences in the 2015 model (manufacture year after July 2014):

valve-intake
valve-exhaust
camshaft sprocket
camshaft complete-intake (left, right)
camshaft complete-exhaust (left, right)
head and valve set-cylinder

Actually, they have different part numbers. Even the entire engine assembly has a different part number.

Any ideas why they made these changes? Any known issue?

I know about the valves because I had to order a custom set they are longer. Go to supertech valve and they list the specs. The valve swap was done in 2013.5 to current. I believe the rocker changed too I can't remember. long day and night

[nikitopo]

So, we verified that at least the intake valves are changed. The new ones are longer:



This doesn't look to be just a change in the source of parts. It seems to be an actual change.

There was also a plan to replace some internal parts with others with less friction. I am not sure if we have already some of these parts changed in the 2015 & 2016 car models.

[Element Tuning]

Originally Posted by Lonewolf

Any input regarding known engine internal changes over the years with the FA20?
@celek @cf6mech @FT-86 SpeedFactory @FullBlown @Element Tuning @CSG Mike @Evasive Motorsports

We know the rocker pivots are different and have different oiling. I believe, but don't hold me to it that the crappy rocker arms were different but still crappy (It's like a Billy Bob made it in his garage)

[meWant]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

Advice for 2015 owners: don't dyno your car at 2000 miles...

155 whp 128 wtq on a dynojet where 2013 and 2014's dyno at 165-172 whp

thats odd, I got mine dyno'd at 1800 miles (Back in January) lol

Results were as follows:
Run 1: 163.82whp 138.28wtq
Run 2: 166.45whp 137.75wtq

car was completely stock and this was on a Dynojet as well.

[Snake]

Originally Posted by meWant

thats odd, I got mine dyno'd at 1800 miles (Back in January) lol

Results were as follows:
Run 1: 163.82whp 138.28wtq
Run 2: 166.45whp 137.75wtq

car was completely stock and this was on a Dynojet as well.

So many variables with Dyno numbers I would take them with a grain of salt.

An example of variables which affect Dyno numbers:
Atmospheric pressure
Temperature
Elevation
Humidity
Dyno age, condition etc
Dyno settings (correction etc)

And that's just a few of the variables which don't apply to the car.

[meWant]

Originally Posted by Snake

So many variables with Dyno numbers I would take them with a grain of salt.

An example of variables which affect Dyno numbers:
Atmospheric pressure
Temperature
Elevation
Humidity
Dyno age, condition etc
Dyno settings (correction etc)

And that's just a few of the variables which don't apply to the car.

you're definitely right about that. as long as the car is still fun to drive and brings a smile to your face amirate?

[Element Tuning]

Well we just ran into this on an engine build. The new rocker arm has different manufacturing in the pivot area mostly and it effects the valve lash adjustment. This is why there is a new valve speced with a longer stem.

[celek]

Originally Posted by Element Tuning

Well we just ran into this on an engine build. The new rocker arm has different manufacturing in the pivot area mostly and it effects the valve lash adjustment. This is why there is a new valve speced with a longer stem.

Well the shooting rocker issue is fixed we hope...

[Element Tuning]

Originally Posted by celek

Well the shooting rocker issue is fixed we hope...

Nope they didn't change the pin locking manufacturing. It's still crappy as ever

[celek]

Originally Posted by Element Tuning

Nope they didn't change the pin locking manufacturing. It's still crappy as ever

Have you been kind enough to notify Ferrera and any other valve manufacture of the changes in the valves? I would assume you were building a customer head and discovered the differences ordering valves that no longer fit.

[Jeff Lange]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

I understand what you say, but this doesn't justify to change the entire muffler. You need to change only the exhaust tips. In fact the tips are a separate part:

http://i59.tinypic.com/2wp7yw5.jpg

The tips were separate on Japan/European mufflers, but they actually come with the muffler on North American cars. Even so, the muffler section did change as well, the 2015 muffler has shorter tail pipes. If you put the 2015 tips (which are not exactly the same as the Japan/Europe ones) on a 2013-14 they will stick out further than they do on the 2015 muffler.

Originally Posted by Poodles

Is this a part number change for Toyota or Subaru? I know if Toyota changes the part number there is a reason (and they'll have a supersede note for the old part number).

Where's Jeff Lange when I need him...

As was shown, the valves are actually a different length, so they won't supersede. That said, it looks like the valves actually changed for 2014. 2014-2016 have the same valves, only 2013 has the earlier valves.

The cams changed at the same time as the valves.

The cam gears changed a couple of months later.

Jeff

[avishenoy1]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

The theory is that the car is A. still breaking in at 2000 miles. Either that or

B. my engine is a lemon
C. very very very bad tank of gas
D. high humidity
E. combination of A C &/or D

So my 2015 is right around 2000, picked it up about A month ago. I really wanna get in a stock dyno now since I'm itching to install a bunch of parts that I've already bought but you think I should wait?

[celek]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

Advice for 2015 owners: don't dyno your car at 2000 miles...

155 whp 128 wtq on a dynojet where 2013 and 2014's dyno at 165-172 whp

Really my 2013 stock in 2012 was 158 with 3000+ miles.
Every engine is different and every dyno and every geographical location / weather that day.

[meWant]

Originally Posted by avishenoy1

So my 2015 is right around 2000, picked it up about A month ago. I really wanna get in a stock dyno now since I'm itching to install a bunch of parts that I've already bought but you think I should wait?

I think you should be fine, after all there are many things that go into the dyne time and results like so:

Originally Posted by celek

Really my 2013 stock in 2012 was 158 with 3000+ miles.
Every engine is different and every dyno and every geographical location / weather that day.

Originally Posted by Snake

So many variables with Dyno numbers I would take them with a grain of salt.

An example of variables which affect Dyno numbers:
Atmospheric pressure
Temperature
Elevation
Humidity
Dyno age, condition etc
Dyno settings (correction etc)

And that's just a few of the variables which don't apply to the car.