DIY-Changing Clock/HVAC LEDs on FR-S

[phanguy]

there are posted pictures(by me) in the thread about the resistor. 3mm leds work fine. or you can buy flat ones on ebay. which i would suggest since they spread light better. not sure what you mean by t3, t4, etc.

[vault]

ok.
The t4/t4 i refer to are the wedge LEDs for the two outer dials

[Shanahan]

Couple older questions or tips I thought I would add for people looking up information on removing the evil orange....i hate that orange.

Originally Posted by |-Goku-|

Make sure when you get them, that they do have polarity, so if they don't work one way, switch it and try the other way

When you remove the old LEDs note there is a corner notched on each SMD to indicate polarity. Make sure you match have the notched corner of the new one in the same orientation as the one removed and you should be fine. This takes a lot of guess work out of LEDs.

Originally Posted by Trashed675

Also, be sure when you are removing the standard LED's that you don't take the contact patch off the board because, as far as i can tell, youre SOL if that happens.

Using Solder Wick when removing the original LED will help prevent this. Heat the contact pad and as the solder gets shinny dip the wick at the shinny part and it will soak up the solder. Also if you heat the pad too hot or mash the solder tip too hard it will overheat the board and cause this issue.

Originally Posted by phanguy

there are posted pictures(by me) in the thread about the resistor. 3mm leds work fine. or you can buy flat ones on ebay. which i would suggest since they spread light better. not sure what you mean by t3, t4, etc.

If you already have round LED you can sand the tip flat and also the sides to make them look frosted is the best way I can describe it. This will help spread the light evenly and you're less likely to get hotspot where the light is brighter or dimmer. I do this with the flat LEDs as well.

[boredom.is.me]

Originally Posted by Lil Abner

DISCLAIMER: I am NOT responsible for any damage you may do to your car.

Pull panel out

This part. I am trying to do something else, but this panel needs to be removed. How much force should I use and how should I pull on the panel? The side with the bucket doesn't seem to want to come out.

[civicdrivr]

Its very tight. You pull it straight out towards the shifter. It takes a good bit of force.

Sent from my Nexus 4

[mottor]

Originally Posted by boredom.is.me

This part. I am trying to do something else, but this panel needs to be removed. How much force should I use and how should I pull on the panel? The side with the bucket doesn't seem to want to come out.

It helps if you wedge a trim removal tool or a small screwdriver between the top of it and the HVAC panel. There are 3 clips across the top there that hold it in.

[phanguy]

Originally Posted by mottor

It helps if you wedge a trim removal tool or a small screwdriver between the top of it and the HVAC panel. There are 3 clips across the top there that hold it in.

something plastic like a trim removal tool doesn't sound bad, but i don't think i'd use a screwdriver. you could end up messing up the cosmetics of it. i say just pull hard with your hand. it'll eventually come out. after you've pulled it out once then it comes out pretty easily after that in case you need to go back in for something else.

[mottor]

Originally Posted by phanguy

something plastic like a trim removal tool doesn't sound bad, but i don't think i'd use a screwdriver. you could end up messing up the cosmetics of it. i say just pull hard with your hand. it'll eventually come out. after you've pulled it out once then it comes out pretty easily after that in case you need to go back in for something else.

Oh I just wrap my screwdrivers in a rag or something if I'm removing interior trim. I wouldn't use a screwdriver without something to cover it. The trim removal kit is definitely your best bet though.

[mandi]

I want to do this, but im scared lol. My dad has the tools, but I have no experience. Could someone help me out with details on the soldering part?

[mandi]

im going to order these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=161009232477
and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-LWT6SC-W...item2eb48e34a2

Would that do the trick?

[mottor]

Yes, those are the correct LED's for the project. Make sure you have some resistors with the flat top LED's otherwise you'll blow the bulb. You should only need 2 flat tops and around 20 SMD's.

As far as soldering, what details do you need? It's basically just a remove and replace procedure. Touch the soldering iron to one side of the SMD that is currently mounted and use tweezers to pry that side up. Then do the same on the other side. Then mount the new SMD's by placing them in the same spot and soldering them down. Make sure the positive and negative sides are in the same direction as the original ones were mounted. It all takes practice. Let us know if you have more questions.

[mandi]

Originally Posted by mottor

Yes, those are the correct LED's for the project. Make sure you have some resistors with the flat top LED's otherwise you'll blow the bulb. You should only need 2 flat tops and around 20 SMD's.

As far as soldering, what details do you need? It's basically just a remove and replace procedure. Touch the soldering iron to one side of the SMD that is currently mounted and use tweezers to pry that side up. Then do the same on the other side. Then mount the new SMD's by placing them in the same spot and soldering them down. Make sure the positive and negative sides are in the same direction as the original ones were mounted. It all takes practice. Let us know if you have more questions.

Thanks Mottor.
Im going to give it a shot. Whoever said we girls dont have the guts to work on our own cars was soo wrong.

I noticed that on the first page showing the DIY there were 2 surface mount SMDs attached to the twist type base. Whats the go with that? Do i need the other type of LED (i think it was a 3mm)? Dont want one to be brighter than the other. Sorry for the basic questions... Im still learning =)

[mottor]

Originally Posted by mandi

Thanks Mottor.
Im going to give it a shot. Whoever said we girls dont have the guts to work on our own cars was soo wrong.

I noticed that on the first page showing the DIY there were 2 surface mount SMDs attached to the twist type base. Whats the go with that? Do i need the other type of LED (i think it was a 3mm)? Dont want one to be brighter than the other. Sorry for the basic questions... Im still learning =)

Are you referring to this picture?



If so, this is where a few of us used 5mm flat top LED's with a resistor instead. Either method will work. I'm not sure which would be brighter or more evenly spread out, but I can tell you that a 5mm flat top blends in perfectly with the rest if you go that route.

Props to you for working on your own car. Good luck with the project.
:happy0180:

[mandi]

Originally Posted by mottor

Are you referring to this picture?



If so, this is where a few of us used 5mm flat top LED's with a resistor instead. Either method will work. I'm not sure which would be brighter or more evenly spread out, but I can tell you that a 5mm flat top blends in perfectly with the rest if you go that route.

Props to you for working on your own car. Good luck with the project.
:happy0180:

Thats the one.
I'll probably do it this way...with the 5mm flat ones. Blending in perfectly with the rest sounds like the way to go.

How did u guys attach the led like in the pic above? both to the resistor and the twist base?