DIY - Swap clutch slave cylinder and hydraulic line for improved feel and control

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Legend@wheels

As it looks like it has no cons at all - im going for it!!
2 q's-

1 -The big diff is by changing the cylinder alone,right?
Changing the hydraulic line and/or removing spring is just an extra?
2 after doing that where is the most safe position(to make sure no damage will occur in the long run) for the pedal? 1:1 with the brake pedal height is ok?

1 - Yes. This decreases the leverage between pedal and throwout bearing. The stock flexible line is perfectly good. There's no functional benefit to changing it. I have mixed feelings about the spring. I would have reinstalled mine if I still had the parts.

2 - The important point here is to make sure that the clutch adequately disengages. Yes, setting the clutch pedal to match the brake pedal height seems to be ok. Make sure you have maybe 3 cm of extra travel to the floor.

[Legend@wheels]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

1 - I have mixed feelings about the spring I would have reinstalled mine if I still had

1 Did u tried that with spring at all?
Maybe its not that effective like it does w/o spring.

2 - The important point here is to make sure that the clutch adequately disengages
2 and how u can know it is?

Yes, setting the clutch pedal to match the brake pedal height seems to be ok. Make sure you have maybe 3 cm of extra travel to the floor

3 extra from where?
From top pedal to floor ? Easily there is 3cm.

.

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[Ultramaroon]

3 cm from floor to clutch contact is where I personally feel adequate clutch disengagement. Others may prefer more decoupling. If that's the case, raise the pedal accordingly.

[Legend@wheels]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

3 cm from floor to clutch contact is where I personally feel adequate clutch disengagement. Others may prefer more decoupling. If that's the case, raise the pedal accordingly.

Now is hard to tell lol
So vague.
Anyhow as long as i dont hear any noises and/or experiencing any gear grinding(more than usual *shitty boxes*)i guess im ok.

Cheers.
P.s going to order this week the part (aa111 and the washers).
Will not remove the spring at all so i hope ill be pleasant with the the new cylinder alone.

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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Legend@wheels

Now is hard to tell lol
So vague.
Anyhow as long as i dont hear any noises and/or experiencing any gear grinding(more than usual *shitty boxes*)i guess im ok.

Cheers.
P.s going to order this week the part (aa111 and the washers).
Will not remove the spring at all so i hope ill be pleasant with the the new cylinder alone.

Try coasting forward, clutch disengaged in second gear, engine idling. You'll hear a clunk exactly when the clutch makes contact.

[Legend@wheels]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Try coasting forward, clutch disengaged in second gear, engine idling. You'll hear a clunk exactly when the clutch makes contact.

And on that spot lock the height? Or give it another spare 1cm?

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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Legend@wheels

And on that spot lock the height? Or give it another spare 1cm?

That spot should be about 3 cm from the floor. It can be more but shouldn't be less. It's a feel thing. I push my pedal all the way to the floor when I shift. Some others don't. Those people should adjust the pedal for more travel.

[Legend@wheels]

Btw
How does it disconnect from the fork metal?
Cuz i dont see any secure pin/bolt/nut between them -then i assume is just to push it out?
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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Legend@wheels

m -then i assume is just to push it out?

Pull the fork forward and see. No substitute for hands-on. ...but yes.

[Legend@wheels]

Great tnx

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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Legend@wheels

Great tnx

Enjoy

[jcw99]

Originally Posted by Legend@wheels

Now is hard to tell lol
So vague.
Anyhow as long as i dont hear any noises and/or experiencing any gear grinding(more than usual *shitty boxes*)i guess im ok.

Cheers.
P.s going to order this week the part (aa111 and the washers).
Will not remove the spring at all so i hope ill be pleasant with the the new cylinder alone.

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I suggest you remove the spring. I started by changing the cylinder only and it was better than OEM and I drove it this way for a good while. After 6 months(?) went by I removed the spring and there was a huge difference. After another 6 months (?) I installed the MTEC spring and I still get great feedback from the pedal but it's much easier to disengage the clutch now. So, I recommend you do the cylinder swap per Ultramaroon's great write-up and also do the MTEC spring swap. Good luck

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by jcw99

I suggest you remove the spring. I started by changing the cylinder only and it was better than OEM and I drove it this way for a good while. After 6 months(?) went by I removed the spring and there was a huge difference. After another 6 months (?) I installed the MTEC spring and I still get great feedback from the pedal but it's much easier to disengage the clutch now. So, I recommend you do the cylinder swap per Ultramaroon's great write-up and also do the MTEC spring swap. Good luck

Changing the cylinder diameter changes both the force and motion profiles. Changing spring rate only changes the force profile.

I suggest that the spring rate is akin to seasoning to taste. Keep your stock parts so you can play around. I've driven all three and I like the MTEC. It just doesn't do that much for me in the context of the swapped cylinder.

It's really quite a subjective topic.

[Legend@wheels]

Well just done mine.
Definitely Nice one but cant say its earth and sky diff.
In that price its worth it.

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