Do you drive an Exedy Stg. 2 Clutch? Come in and share your experience.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Neal@EQtuning

Thats incredibly annoying. So no one has had issues with ACT's?

I was really sad to find out that the exedy clutch requires use of their own flywheel, as I really didn't want the lighter one.

I think there have been one or two isolated cases, where someone did not grease the input shaft at all and different brands (ACT, CM), started locking out people.

BUT, none have been to the extent, where a big percentage of people running the clutch actually have the issue like this one.

I almost bought an OS Giken single disk, but got an incredible deal on an ACT 6 puck I could not pass up.

[aagun]

Originally Posted by RallySTI

The springs are not worn out. The OEM clutch has a long travel damper multi rate spring. These are supposed to be loose. The dampening springs of a clutch disc aren't supposed to be preloaded. These springs will constantly move back and forth while the vehicle is in operation. This is how a clutch disc absorbs driveline/engine harmonics.

my car vibration when i start drive the car

[The Racers Line]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

I think there have been one or two isolated cases, where someone did not grease the input shaft at all and different brands (ACT, CM), started locking out people.

BUT, none have been to the extent, where a big percentage of people running the clutch actually have the issue like this one.

I almost bought an OS Giken single disk, but got an incredible deal on an ACT 6 puck I could not pass up.

Curious to see how you like the ACT. They have been really hit or miss with a lot of our built STi's.


The boss and I just got in contact with Southbend. We use their clutches for the wrx 5 speeds and are very happy with them. We have the stage 2 daily for my car and the Enurance for his car on the way now to test out. Will report back when they are installed and broken in.

[evan]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Yes, adjusted on install and after break in period.

Clutch did not do it for first 1800 miles. Just started doing it now.

The thing that jumps to me as a design issue, is that I personally know 6 people that have the same clutch installed and have the same issue at some point and have read of 2 or 3 in forum with the same issue.

Do you remember when I brought up the issues with my ACT clutch doing the same shit and I got slammed by a bunch of know-it-alls blaming it on my installer or on me? Ridiculous. Sometimes this forum is beyond counterproductive. Even the f-body guys could admit design issues with their master/slave setups..

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by evan

Do you remember when I brought up the issues with my ACT clutch doing the same shit and I got slammed by a bunch of know-it-alls blaming it on my installer or on me? Ridiculous. Sometimes this forum is beyond counterproductive. Even the f-body guys could admit design issues with their master/slave setups..

I don't remember but yea, forums can be really stupid.

[jher]

Mine is starting to have this issue too, now that I'm past the break in period.

[Draco_PR23]

I didn't noticed this thread but I experience similar issues with my clutch.
Mine has about 2.2k miles and I followed the instructions.
The issue I had recently its 1st being locked out after a complete stop, also there is some hesitation sometimes.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Draco_PR23

I didn't noticed this thread but I experience similar issues with my clutch.
Mine has about 2.2k miles and I followed the instructions.
The issue I had recently its 1st being locked out after a complete stop, also there is some hesitation sometimes.

Wow... so many people...

[Draco_PR23]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Wow... so many people...

Yes!!!
I knew the clutch felt weird but I didn't expect this and I want to change it!

[Iamthebatman]

I have 1k miles on my Stage 1 with no issues yet. Will update in a month or two

[blown]

Originally Posted by jher

Mine is starting to have this issue too, now that I'm past the break in period.

PM me your info,I can get a part sent to you for testing to see if this new pin will fix your issue.

[mike the snake]

I read about a lot of people adjusting their clutch pedals lower, which actuates the clutch Less when the pedal is pushed in.

I adjusted mine higher, so the clutch begins actuating earlier, and therefore the clutch opens up more, which may solve these issues some are having.

What I hear complaints about sounds like a dragging clutch, which means either the clutch isn't full disengaging, or there's actually something wrong like an out-of-round disk or bad pressure plate.

I cleared my issues by simply adjusting the clutch.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

I read about a lot of people adjusting their clutch pedals lower, which actuates the clutch Less when the pedal is pushed in.

I adjusted mine higher, so the clutch begins actuating earlier, and therefore the clutch opens up more, which may solve these issues some are having.

What I hear complaints about sounds like a dragging clutch, which means either the clutch isn't full disengaging, or there's actually something wrong like an out-of-round disk or bad pressure plate.

I cleared my issues by simply adjusting the clutch.

Adjusting the pedal all the way up and all the way down, does not affect the issue at all.

Also, the point of adjusting the pedal low is to prevent overextending the pressure plate, which will in turn damage its teeth really soon. The clutch should grab low, only pressing onto the PP the amount needed to disengange, not more. Adjusting the pedal to prevent overextending the PP is fairly easy and its also easy to know if you are actually adjusting it too low and dragging the clutch.

[mike the snake]

My point is that many people have clutch adjustments that don't open the clutch enough, causing the dragging clutch and 1st gear issues.

My stock clutch began engaging Juuuuust off the floor. Any more and the clutch would never have fully disegaged and would have hung up and caused the issues many complain about.

After adjusting so the clutch began engaging ealier in the pedal stroke, the clutch ended up opening more, and made it easier to get 1st and improved shifting everywhere.

This, coupled with my tune giving me more gumption just off of idle made it much easier to use.

The stock tune just has no power just off of idle, so it would fall on it;s face when taking off in 1st unless you did everything perfectly, and it also made it difficult to shift smoothly through the other gears.

The new tune has more spunk and better throttle response off idle, which made the clutch much easier to use-no stalling and jerky shifting.

I still have yet to remove my clutch spring, it'll probably make things even better, but I have no complaints with the better tune.

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Adjusting the pedal all the way up and all the way down, does not affect the issue at all.

Also, the point of adjusting the pedal low is to prevent overextending the pressure plate, which will in turn damage its teeth really soon. The clutch should grab low, only pressing onto the PP the amount needed to disengange, not more. Adjusting the pedal to prevent overextending the PP is fairly easy and its also easy to know if you are actually adjusting it too low and dragging the clutch.