Clueless on lug nuts

[904FRSlow]

I just got new wheels recently (17x8 +35 TSW Nurburgring) and I'm unsure if I should use the OEM nuts or get aftermarket? One of my friends had their lug nuts seize to the studs and screwed things up so I want to avoid any trouble.

[mike7792]

my only advice would be not to buy cheap after market tuner lugs from ebay.
I bought some muteki branded ones from ebay and after taking them on and off a few times I could see metal shavings fall off and the paint on the nuts were coming off too.

Basically, you get what you pay for

[blue cat]

Do some research on steel versus duraluminium or whatever the fancy ones are called. i've heard stories of aluminium breaking, whereas steel is stronger. You will need aftermarket lugs for aftermarket wheels, i think because it needs to have an acorn/tapered style seat? Someone will actual knowledge please chime in.

[Poodles]

Factory lugs are the typical aftermarket tapered seat. That's only half of the equation though because you still need clearance around the nut and that depends on the wheel.

[tyrantcf]

Not sure if this helps but, I have the stock lug nuts on mine, TSW Interlagos 17x8 +35 and they work.

[904FRSlow]

Thanks for all the replies. I think I should be fine as tyrantcf has a similar wheel

[aznatama]

As long as the seat is the same, there's enough clearance int he lughole, and there's enough thread engagement, you'll be fine with whatever lugnut you want to use.

Use anti-seize if you're worried about the lugnuts corroding onto the lugs. Aluminum is obviously less durable than steel, but it's a trade-off for weight reduction.

Problem w/ "tuner" lugs is the keys required for their use. You'll need a tool that will provide direct "turning" force without any angular force so you don't break the keys. Thus means using a X shaped wrench as opposed to the stock L looking thing. Using a tq wrench becomes a problem w/ the keys as well for the same reason. (experience w/ crappy Muteki keys breaking).

[wparsons]

My Muteki lugs (SR48) just use a normal 17mm socket. The set includes a thin walled socket just in case you need it for clearance on the wheel, but a normal socket fits fine for me with RPF1's.

[vividracing]

When running new wheels it is best to also run a set of aftermarket lugs, however as stated above, the stock lugs do offer the proper seat and can be used in conjunction with some aftermarket applications. After market lugs do come in many options to full-fill you needs and desires. The thread pitch needed for our lugs is M12x1.25. Also keep in mind if you decide to run new lugs with your new wheels, it is HIGHLY recommended that you re-torque the NEW lugs after 50 miles to ensure that they are seated properly, new lugs used with new wheels have been know to come loose.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by blue cat

Do some research on steel versus duraluminium or whatever the fancy ones are called. i've heard stories of aluminium breaking, whereas steel is stronger. You will need aftermarket lugs for aftermarket wheels, i think because it needs to have an acorn/tapered style seat? Someone will actual knowledge please chime in.

Honda's use a ball seat, but these cars are the same as aftermarket wheels (and most cars out there).


OP: You can use your OEM lugs. Re-torque as Vivid suggested as the paint on the wheel seat will come off which is what causes the loose lugnuts after a bit on new wheels.

[TylerLieberman]

Kics R40 on everything :P

[Knshro13]

I agree with above post. Project kics R40. They are expensive, but I think we'll worth it. Protect your expensive wheels, and your life at the same time.

[dradernh]

If you choose to go aftermarket, here's a simple way to go: http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=475

[LSxJunkie]

After having both OEM and aftermarket lugs swell up on me, I will only use McGard solid 1 piece lug nuts. I got a set of 20 for like $40 bucks shipped when they were doing a 10% sale over the summer.