Opti-Coated the BRZ

[Food]

How do you like OCW?

I recently bought some a couple weeks ago after reading pretty good things on it on autogeek forums - it's durable, it lasts longer than many/most paste waxes, durability is advertised as 5 months but people's reports get a realistic good 2-4 months (which is darn good for an easy spray application).

I love it so far. I'll see how long it really lasts (been a couple weeks so far). Even if it only lasts 2 months, that's more than enough since I'd be applying it after each wash anyways once a month.

I love it as there's never an excuse Not to wax your car, since it's soo easy. Many times paint is neglected because owners just don't always want to do a full past wax job every other month, or forget to, or just are too lazy that moment or not in the mood at times.. ...but with OCW..that's never a problem

I dig the deep and rich character it adds too. Many say it's "look" is on par with M26 and other high end carnauba paste waxes...in a spray bottle no less.

Also many others say it shouldn't be called a "spray wax"...since those products are usually always not that great and more on par with spray detailers....whereas OCW is straight up on par with true real paste waxes.

Makes sense too... it is Optimum's only wax ...and we all know Optimum doesn't F around

[imom]

Originally Posted by Food

Which lasts the longest and has the best durability tho? I though it was opticoat?

I was not impressed with OC's ability to not get etched... it etches easily with bird or bee poo...that orange stuff. The nice thing about OC and other types of sealant is that it's an added layer of protection. The best durabilty? I have not try others...but the video for C.Quartz Finest looked impressive...but may be marketing hype just like OC.

Paint protection film is my answer with a paint sealant on top...but that's really expensive. If I would do it again, I would try C. Quartz and then top it with EXO. I am still waiting for any issues with EXO...so too early to tell.

I also thought Opti-glass was junk. I like EXO that it can be applied to glass as well and doesn't require another product.


For car washes...I used Meguiar's D115 waterless wash and water. I hear really good things about Optimum ONR... I have the ONR...but use it when the car is really dirty but I still rinse then I top off with D115 again to wipe down. If I use waterless wash enough...it's faster than dragging out the hose and getting the garage all wet.

[Ec1990]

Originally Posted by Food

How do you like OCW?

I recently bought some a couple weeks ago after reading pretty good things on it on autogeek forums - it's durable, it lasts longer than many/most paste waxes, durability is advertised as 5 months but people's reports get a realistic good 2-4 months (which is darn good for an easy spray application).

I love it so far. I'll see how long it really lasts (been a couple weeks so far). Even if it only lasts 2 months, that's more than enough since I'd be applying it after each wash anyways once a month.

I love it as there's never an excuse Not to wax your car, since it's soo easy. Many times paint is neglected because owners just don't always want to do a full past wax job every other month, or forget to, or just are too lazy that moment or not in the mood at times.. ...but with OCW..that's never a problem

I dig the deep and rich character it adds too. Many say it's "look" is on par with M26 and other high end carnauba paste waxes...in a spray bottle no less.

Also many others say it shouldn't be called a "spray wax"...since those products are usually always not that great and more on par with spray detailers....whereas OCW is straight up on par with true real paste waxes.

Makes sense too... it is Optimum's only wax ...and we all know Optimum doesn't F around

Personally I've never used it so I can't say; I have heard many good things about it, but liquid/spray waxes are a different breed than traditional paste. I primarily stick with paste but I may just be stuck in my ways. I like spray waxes as a booster type product. A solid wax, environment dependent can easily be expected to last 3-6 months. But doing it sooner isn't harmful, just depends if the cost of increased product use is worth it.

Optimum is probably up there as my company that I'd stick with if I had to choose one. Optimum No Rinse revolutionized detailing.

Originally Posted by imom

I was not impressed with OC's ability to not get etched... it etches easily with bird or bee poo...that orange stuff. The nice thing about OC and other types of sealant is that it's an added layer of protection. The best durabilty? I have not try others...but the video for C.Quartz Finest looked impressive...but may be marketing hype just like OC.

Paint protection film is my answer with a paint sealant on top...but that's really expensive. If I would do it again, I would try C. Quartz and then top it with EXO. I am still waiting for any issues with EXO...so too early to tell.

I also thought Opti-glass was junk. I like EXO that it can be applied to glass as well and doesn't require another product.


For car washes...I used Meguiar's D115 waterless wash and water. I hear really good things about Optimum ONR... I have the ONR...but use it when the car is really dirty but I still rinse then I top off with D115 again to wipe down. If I use waterless wash enough...it's faster than dragging out the hose and getting the garage all wet.

Opti-Glass is ridiculously overpriced and Opti-Coat can absolutely be used on windows. The glass variant is just a bit more durable to using the wipers, but if you have a good quality product on your windows I never even have to use windshield wipers and I find them more distracting. I'll usually stick with Sonax Net Shield, but CarPro FlyBy30 or Gtechniq G5 is another option, can be difficult to apply though. I've also used Chemical Guys V07 weekly/bi-weekly as a booster.

ONR is fantastic, I've used both the regular and wax version, I'm not a fan of trusting something like it as purely as a paint protecting product I'll stick with traditional wax/sealants.

[Food]

Originally Posted by Ec1990

Personally I've never used it so I can't say; I have heard many good things about it, but liquid/spray waxes are a different breed than traditional paste. I primarily stick with paste but I may just be stuck in my ways. I like spray waxes as a booster type product. A solid wax, environment dependent can easily be expected to last 3-6 months. But doing it sooner isn't harmful, just depends if the cost of increased product use is worth it.

Ya..I understand many of us, especially old schoolers, are going to prefer traditional paste waxes forever. But Dr G of Optimum said himself, old paste waxes are ancient technology and are not any better than their spray wax. He said something like they all leave behind a coating, and a paste form isn't necessary to leave behind a good coating (since it's wiped/buffed off anyways) and theirs is just as durable, thick and hard as paste waxes.

Also a reminder, like I've stated..OCW isn't like all the other "spray waxes" out there that is only good for "detailing," a topper or a booster type thing...it's an actual true legit wax as good or better than paste waxes. But I think many will not see/believe this, as it looks exactly like all the other inferior "spray wax" bottles out there and is too easy to use (ie: too good to be true). Remember - this IS Optimum's ONLY wax.

Give it a try and let us know what you think ...it's only $14.

So far so good on mine...still feels slick and it's been out in the desert SoCal sun 24/7 outdoors for a couple weeks already.

[danman2_2999]

I am enjoying the thread because I am about to make my decision on my WRB BRZ...

Initially was going to go with XPEL installed by one guy (great yelp and forum reviews) then go with OC 2.0 put over it by another guy. This was supposed to be about $1800 and happen the day after I took delivery but shit happens and now its 3 months later lol...

Anyways so I ended up getting my windows tinted (Pinnacle's ceramic 30%) at this high end shop near my house, and they are XPEL and OC Pro/Guard dealers. I told them I was shopping around and they suggested full correction, OC Pro/Guard, XPEL on bumper hood fenders mirrors and door cups, then OC Pro/Guard on top of the XPEL... quoted just north of $3k!!

I expected a higher price due to being a big high end shop but was not expecting so much.. although the services are not exactly the same (difference being OC 2.0 vs Pro/Guard and also an extra layer on top).

400 for correction, 500 for application, 2500 for ppf

Just trying to decide if I will end up getting a return on investment with such a big purchase into the car

[Food]

$1800-3000 for correction and coating?!??!? No offense...but are you guys insane?!?!?

I can buy ohlins coilovers for that. I can buy premium work wheels or other premium wheels for that much. That's around 15% of the actual car'a value!

No correction nor coating is worth that much! It's not invincible armor! It'll still need correction and will get swirls 1-3 years from now....def not worth it.

$3k...that's a new paint job!! Lol

Maybe high end prices for high end cars is reasonable....but not for an economy sports dd

[danman2_2999]

Yeah it is a crazy amount of money really... but that 1800 was also for XPEL film as well, not just the correction and coating. But either way, very expensive!

[Ec1990]

Originally Posted by Food

Ya..I understand many of us, especially old schoolers, are going to prefer traditional paste waxes forever. But Dr G of Optimum said himself, old paste waxes are ancient technology and are not any better than their spray wax. He said something like they all leave behind a coating, and a paste form isn't necessary to leave behind a good coating (since it's wiped/buffed off anyways) and theirs is just as durable, thick and hard as paste waxes.

Also a reminder, like I've stated..OCW isn't like all the other "spray waxes" out there that is only good for "detailing," a topper or a booster type thing...it's an actual true legit wax as good or better than paste waxes. But I think many will not see/believe this, as it looks exactly like all the other inferior "spray wax" bottles out there and is too easy to use (ie: too good to be true). Remember - this IS Optimum's ONLY wax.

Give it a try and let us know what you think ...it's only $14.

So far so good on mine...still feels slick and it's been out in the desert SoCal sun 24/7 outdoors for a couple weeks already.

I'll keep it in mind for my next order definitely.

Originally Posted by danman2_2999

I am enjoying the thread because I am about to make my decision on my WRB BRZ...

Initially was going to go with XPEL installed by one guy (great yelp and forum reviews) then go with OC 2.0 put over it by another guy. This was supposed to be about $1800 and happen the day after I took delivery but shit happens and now its 3 months later lol...

Anyways so I ended up getting my windows tinted (Pinnacle's ceramic 30%) at this high end shop near my house, and they are XPEL and OC Pro/Guard dealers. I told them I was shopping around and they suggested full correction, OC Pro/Guard, XPEL on bumper hood fenders mirrors and door cups, then OC Pro/Guard on top of the XPEL... quoted just north of $3k!!

I expected a higher price due to being a big high end shop but was not expecting so much.. although the services are not exactly the same (difference being OC 2.0 vs Pro/Guard and also an extra layer on top).

400 for correction, 500 for application, 2500 for ppf

Just trying to decide if I will end up getting a return on investment with such a big purchase into the car

That is quite a bit, I understand areas have different charges. But 2500 for PPF is ridiculous as is 500 for application. At MOST correction for that new of a car unless it's completely trashed including application should be in the 600 range. Shoot you can one-step it with Menzerna FG400 and have it done in less than 10 hours. Most detailers charge roughly in the $35-50/hr range.

As for the difference between OC 2.0 and Opti-Guard is minor at best, the Guard version provides a shorter curing time but what they sell you on is the warranty. What they don't tell you is it requires you to follow so many rules it's not even worth it. They're not a good detailer unless they educate you on proper car maintenance to avoid swirls and scratches.

PPF even for Xpel you can look up the kit online yourself. But 2500 is way too much. For example the consumer price for Xpel for the hood/fender/mirrors is $810. Now if they are a pro they will have a PPF cutting machine where they can buy rolls of it for a much lower price. Yes installation is a pain but even at 3-4 hours at $50/hour gets you to $1000. For that much PPF I think at most $1500 is reasonable.

Anymore and you might as well scrap the correction, pay for the products yourself and you'll not only spend less (roughly $600) but you'll have leftover product and a skill.

[sr86]

Awesome work! So how long did you finish the whole process?

[danman2_2999]

I appreciate your feedback about the differences between 2.0 and OptiGuard... Now after reading these posts here I am beginning to think I should maybe look into Optimum's competition...

I also agree $1500 is reasonable for the XPEL installation... the guy I am considering (highly recommended on yelp and forum) was going to be even less than that. The other $2500 quote I received was from the large high end shop, and I was thrown back at the $1000+ difference, although they are authorized installers.

Thinking that the OptiGuard was a superior product than the 2.0, I wanted to go to an installer for that specifically, which was why I was considering having the high end shop put that on. And also since they are also XPEL authorized, figure a bundle might save some money. Only difference was another layer of the OptiGuard on top of the XPEL and the "peace of mind" of using a high end authorized dealer.

I am thinking of trying to get some cheap paint correction, going then to the $400ish 2.0 guy, then after that is set and ready, bring the car to the $1500ish XPEL guy from yelp and forum...

[Food]

Shouldn't one XPEL/PPF the roof too?

The "front" (bumper, hood, frnt fenders, mirrors) will for sure be the most vulnerable to chips..but the roof and hood are easily the most vulnerable to sun and clear coat damage (as easily seen on +10yo cars).

Clearcoat damage on the roof and hood is much much uglier and 1000000x bigger and more noticeable than front tiny rock chips on a 10yo car.

[imom]

Originally Posted by danman2_2999

I expected a higher price due to being a big high end shop but was not expecting so much.. although the services are not exactly the same (difference being OC 2.0 vs Pro/Guard and also an extra layer on top).

400 for correction, 500 for application, 2500 for ppf

Just trying to decide if I will end up getting a return on investment with such a big purchase into the car

Danman2 your quote seems high for just a front clip. Also the paint correction and 500 for OC application is high. A new car runs about $600 for OC with paint correction if it's a new car. This is for opti guard not the consumer stuff...I shopped around when I had my car done.

If I were to do it again...I get paint correction and then just apply C.Quartz or Gtechniq C1 and then apply EXO v2. It'll run you about $100 for the sealant and top coat . If you want pro, then go with C.Quartz finest.


BTW, $2500 for front clip is really high. I just had my car done and no where near that.

[Ec1990]

Originally Posted by sr86

Awesome work! So how long did you finish the whole process?

It took roughly 8-9 hours for everything.

Originally Posted by Food

Shouldn't one XPEL/PPF the roof too?

The "front" (bumper, hood, frnt fenders, mirrors) will for sure be the most vulnerable to chips..but the roof and hood are easily the most vulnerable to sun and clear coat damage (as easily seen on +10yo cars).

Clearcoat damage on the roof and hood is much much uglier and 1000000x bigger and more noticeable than front tiny rock chips on a 10yo car.

While clearcoat damage looks worse its just much less susceptible to rock chips. The front clip, hood, and in front of the rear wheels and possibly the door areas are the most important.

[imom]

Originally Posted by Ec1990

While clearcoat damage looks worse its just much less susceptible to rock chips. The front clip, hood, and in front of the rear wheels and possibly the door areas are the most important.

Just like Ec1990 said...at least PPF the bumper. The hood will eventually get some chips...but the bumper gets hammered on the freeway. If I had to pick one part I would do bumper first if you can't do any other part.