Track Mods - Plan

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Along with an oil cooler, would it be wise to install a catch can or air/oil separator? My other car is a supercharged V8 and it was essential to add a catch can due to excessive blow-by.


Is it still wise to have one on an N/A BRZ?

It won't hurt. It becomes highly recommended with boost, but boost changes the equation.

[Apex_BRZ]

Thanks Mike. I'll consider the oil cooler as my next mod. Next track day is at Mid America Motorplex on the 29th, then Road America again in mid October. I'll monitor oil temps on the 29th and go from there.

Before I do the track day, I want to change the oil. I've taken it to a dealer before and now want to start doing it myself. What brand/type of oil would you guys recommend I switch to from the OEM oil? What weight? Car is a daily driver at the moment, used for autocross and 4-7 track days per year.

[Sleepless]

My philosophy on track mods is to fix issues that I've observed or are well known. The one thing that is an issue with our cars is the high oil temps (which I confirmed for myself). So, after addressing the usuals (tires, pads, brake fluid), I did the oil cooler. I went with the Perrin, but recommend Jackson Racing for its increased capacity.

I also did the OEM crash/camber bolts and highly recommend them.

I did brake cooling ducts only after I experienced fade. First try the Porsche brake scoops; $25 and an easy install and will likely be enough.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Thanks Mike. I'll consider the oil cooler as my next mod. Next track day is at Mid America Motorplex on the 29th, then Road America again in mid October. I'll monitor oil temps on the 29th and go from there.

Before I do the track day, I want to change the oil. I've taken it to a dealer before and now want to start doing it myself. What brand/type of oil would you guys recommend I switch to from the OEM oil? What weight? Car is a daily driver at the moment, used for autocross and 4-7 track days per year.

Motul 300V is what we use in our car. You'll want 5W30 since you track the car. Once you have an oil cooler, you should be safe with 0W20.

You'll have a slight reduction in MPG with the 5W30.

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by Sleepless

I also did the OEM crash/camber bolts and highly recommend them
.

I bought those from my local dealer a couple months back. I plan on installing them and getting an alignment done before my next track day. I believe the idea was to just max out front camber with the bolts, getting maybe 1.5* of camber out of them. The rears have no adjustment available, right?


Which Porsche brake scoops? First time I've heard of using them.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

I bought those from my local dealer a couple months back. I plan on installing them and getting an alignment done before my next track day. I believe the idea was to just max out front camber with the bolts, getting maybe 1.5* of camber out of them. The rears have no adjustment available, right?


Which Porsche brake scoops? First time I've heard of using them.

you can also try my ghetto Brake ducting mod in my signature it seems to be working just fine for me (about 8 track days on the same rotor with the ducting 6 of them are FId)

[Sleepless]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

I bought those from my local dealer a couple months back. I plan on installing them and getting an alignment done before my next track day. I believe the idea was to just max out front camber with the bolts, getting maybe 1.5* of camber out of them. The rears have no adjustment available, right?


Which Porsche brake scoops? First time I've heard of using them.

Right, rears have no stock adjustment, but they gain camber under compression.

See the Brake Cooling Thread. Here is a post in that thread about the brake scoops: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=21

You will need to remove the dust shield or cut it to allow the air to reach the rotor.

[AZP Installs]

Definitely looking in the right direction. I'm actually at NJMP with my BRZ today posting up here.

Cooling is going to be an issue, especially the oil.

JR Oil Cooler or Custom kit with a bit core.
Cosworth AOS
Koyo Aluminum Radiator

I'm currently running Eibach Prokit springs on stock dampers.
SPC Arms in rear to allow for more camber
Oil/Coolant gauge we like the P3 Cars vent gauge

MachV Awesome Wheels w/Continental Series 225-45-17 Takeoffs
Hawk HP+ Pads w/Togue Tuning Brake Ducts

Looking to do in the near future:
Oil Cooler
AST Coilovers
Sways/Endlinks
Full Exhaust w/tune

I can't stress the oil cooler enough, we are seeing crazy high temps on track with the stock setup.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[Apex_BRZ]

If I go ahead and put the crash bolts in now for the extra front camber, what are the immediate concerns? I may not be able to get an alignment done for another week.

If I put it in and move it all the way to adjust the camber, what else does it affect?

Is the alignment purely to verify that camber is equal each side, since nothing else is changing?

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

If I go ahead and put the crash bolts in now for the extra front camber, what are the immediate concerns? I may not be able to get an alignment done for another week.

If I put it in and move it all the way to adjust the camber, what else does it affect?

Is the alignment purely to verify that camber is equal each side, since nothing else is changing?

You push the top of the wheel as much as you can and lock down the bolt. That's maximum camber.

What you're doing is checking for toe. You'll want to make sure the toe setting is zero.

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by CSG David

You push the top of the wheel as much as you can and lock down the bolt. That's maximum camber.

What you're doing is checking for toe. You'll want to make sure the toe setting is zero.

Ah, so it affects the toe adjustment as well. I understand toe in/out has a big affect on tire wear. Maybe I'll wait...

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Ah, so it affects the toe adjustment as well. I understand toe in/out has a big affect on tire wear. Maybe I'll wait...

You'll be okay if it's for a couple weeks and not so long drives (more than 1k miles). I mean we installed our crash bolts at the track site and beat the crap out of the car for a couple weekends before going to the shop to get it aligned...1k miles laters...

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by CSG David

You'll be okay if it's for a couple weeks and not so long drives (more than 1k miles). I mean we installed our crash bolts at the track site and beat the crap out of the car for a couple weekends before going to the shop to get it aligned...1k miles laters...

Great, thanks. I'm putting the RPF1 wheels on tonight, and may just do these bolts while I'm at it. I've scheduled an alignment, but it's a week out.

What would you recommend I do to try and minimize the affects on Toe adjustment while installing these bolts? From what I've read, it doesn't seem like there is anything I can do as Toe is a separate adjustment.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Great, thanks. I'm putting the RPF1 wheels on tonight, and may just do these bolts while I'm at it. I've scheduled an alignment, but it's a week out.

What would you recommend I do to try and minimize the affects on Toe adjustment while installing these bolts? From what I've read, it doesn't seem like there is anything I can do as Toe is a separate adjustment.

Yes. Just push the top of the wheel and lock it down. Toe is a separate adjustment. Worry about that later.