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| Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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#15 |
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The Stig's African Cousin
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haha I had this exact problem yesterday while changing my exhaust. I had my dad help me the key is to loosen the nut NOT the bolt trying to loosen the bolt we be much harder trust me I felt the same way. I thought I was going to break the exhaust trying for 15 minutes then my dad got it off in a matter of seconds. Oh and use some pb baster or liquid wrench it should also help
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#16 |
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It will come off, I don't need to say what's already been said. As others do, I as well use anti-sieze on exhaust bolts. Enjoy the new exhaust.
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#17 |
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hit the gym
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| The Following User Says Thank You to raven1231 For This Useful Post: | chas3wba0 (07-31-2014) |
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#19 |
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I couldn't budge mine either....impact gun took care of that
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#20 |
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Impact gun or breaker bar pretty much.
I used a breaker bar and rubber mallet on mine but I was also half drunk and had bet a friend that I could swap exhaust in under 15 minutes by myself(start to finish, nothing prepped). |
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#21 |
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Thanks everyone for all the suggestions! Big help, very new to working on my car instead of having someone else do it so this is all gold!
Good to know about loosening it while its on the ground, and about this break bar thing. Will douse the sucker in WD40 and try out some of your suggestions. I'm at just over 6k miles. |
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#22 | |
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Quote:
Bringing this thread from the dead. My car had only 4000 miles when installing the muffler delete, those two bolts were a pain, a spray of pb blaster on both and a breaker bar literally took car of them in like 2 minutes, I'd hate to see what it takes for the other ones. The exhaust hangers were easy for me with an exhaust hanger removal tool.
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#23 |
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I'm in this boat. Question. As I'm turning from behind the nuts. Do I turn to the right hand side wheel or left hand side wheel. This freaking nuts and bolts are killing me.
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#24 |
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Feeling like thinking....
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PBBlaster or SeaFoam works better... a LOT better.. than WD40. Spray and let soak. Tap lightly after spraying with a metal tool to penetrate. Let soak. Overnight if necessary. Repeat if necessary.
Also, just in case this isn't common knowledge, impact wrenches work so well because of the... ummm.. impact. That impact breaks the bond of the rust. When trying to move a rusted bolt or nut, apply force suddenly, not gradually. If you don't have a long breaker bar, hitting the handle of your ratchet with a ballpeen hammer can help. It's the opposite of tightening a bolt or not properly... that should always be done with gradual smooth application of torque.
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#25 |
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If you dont have a breaker bar, take the handle off your floor jack and slide it over your ratchet. Hopefully you're not in love with the ratchet though.
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#26 |
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1/2” air impact with a reducer and an impact swivel socket will do the trick guaranteed. Might need new hardware afterwards, but it’ll come loose. Alternatively find a lift you can use and go for a 3-4 foot long breaker bar and put your body weight into it.
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#27 |
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imho, in prepping for any exhaust work, new fasteners are a must. cut the bolts and move on.
reusing rusted fasteners will give a false torque reading when it comes time to reinstall things. |
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#28 |
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You will always turn to the left to loosen, assuming you are looking at the top of the nut (or bolt if you are turning that one).
Also, when dealing with rusted parts, this is what you deal with when you don't have air tools. Anyway try turning the nut it may be easier than the bolt since the bolt is longer and likely has more resistance. Spray with PB blaster as others have suggested. I recommending getting exhaust hot, spray heavily with PB and let sit for a while and cool then come back and try. Also, make sure you use a gasket or it will leak that sounds like crap. |
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