Eneos Sustina or Motul Oil 8100 eco-lite? 0W-20

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by newbrz

You do mean to not change it for aroung 10k but occasionally topping it off right? I found once that I didn't change it for around 10k once accidentally and found that the car was lower than minimum by then. Using OEM oil by the dealership's service. Thank you beforehand.

Of course... doesn't matter your oil change intervals, one should always check oil levels regularly.

Oil change interval has nothing to do with oil level monitoring.

-alex

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by viscositosis.rex

Ecolite and Edge Euro, group IV synthetics, will give you excellent protection under track conditions. Understand that Edge Euro is entirely different than any other Edge and that it is slightly thicker than Ecolite.

I personally like Red Line 20W racing oil. It is both thin and very stable. There is plenty of zinc. There are minimal detergent additives, which compete with anti-wear components. It would involve a changeout on track days.

I have had no issues with 0W20 Redline as a track oil. Analysis look great. (Despite 255F Temps and Lower Oil Pressures)
Clearly, oil is not a passion for me but I have to say I have spent enough time reading about oils and spending time and having exposure to the mechanical side to have formed a solid opinion.

For common mass produced motors like the FA20 engine wear rate is going to be more determined by the way the motor is operated and the conditions it experiences. Oil is only a piece of this equation, and it becomes less of an issue now that most synthetics are very good on paper.

Most of the hard core oil guys will talk endlessly about lab results and the chemistry of oil. Which is informative and important of course but the end result is how the motor is operated.

A machine shop locally does head work, he received two D16 heads from the same shop same week. Both had had all of their oil changes from the same shop with similar intervals same oil. One head had the wear of a 30k motor but had 200k miles. The other had 90k miles but looked like it had 200k. The high wear head saw cold starts and short runs throughout the life. The other had extended highway miles. This is one example of many. When you talk to those who actually do the mechanical work you realize no matter the oil there are mechanical factors at play that will cause more/accelerated wear no matter what oils are used.

Really that's the point, Sustina or any oil for that matter has the same result when you start an FA20. Oil pressure is very high compared to most motors. On a 50F day you see 115PSI at idle. Even when oil temps are 100F you can see pressures running at 130PSI if you are winding up to 4000RPM.

Mechanical understanding becomes more critical than your oil choice. I think whether you run Castrol, Mobil, Sustina, Redline, Motul as long as you choose the right grade and understand oil temps and pressure patterns and what is safe the oil variable is much less of an issue.

Pick a top tier oil, run an analysis in your typical conditions and if its clean after 7k miles don't give it a second thought.

[viscositosis.rex]

Dezoris, thanks for your informative post. I would like to add that Sustina is the lighest and Red Line is the heaviest of motor oils in the 0W20 grade. I have used both oils for thousands of miles, and they run quite different. Ecolite would have to be similar to RL. Viscosity at operating temperatures is something I look at carefully.

It has been suggested that Sustina first shears quickly, then oxidizes and thusly produces numbers which "mask" that the oil is not servicable. Actually, Sustina remains stable and consistently light for 15k miles in my application. That is precisely the winning point. I am anxious to see 10k miles UOAs with the FA20 engine. Quite anxious.

[chaoskaze]

Just came across this again today while looking for viscositosis.rex 's name to refrence on some post to help someone new.

I finally had the chance to try motul eco-lite few months ago & I can tell you that I'm not a fan at all. Other then the fact engine is more quiet (by a good amount), engine "response" is a step backward compare to even oem not to mention sustina.

Lesson I learned: it says eco for a reason, get 300v if you want motul...don't joke yourself.

[JGalp]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

viscositosis - A rather enjoyable string of posts there. Although, I would just like to point out one thing.

One of my pet peeves about motor oil is when people generalize an oil's performance based on uoa's and/or experience in a particular application. Application is frequently overlooked in a lot of oil discussions.

While I do believe that many people can go 10,000 miles on Sustina in many different applications, I would be cautious about flat out recommending those intervals solely based on your experience in a different automobile.

It's sort of like people that run Mobil 0W-20 or 5W-30 because "If it's good enough for [Porsche] [Audi] [BMW] [Mercedes] it's good enough for my car!". As you well know, a Euro spec oil is a complelty different animal than a GF5 Resource Conserving one.

And just like I would never compare the experience of the conventional oil used in my daughter's naturually apirated 2000 Impreza RS to the synthetic oil used in my Forester Stage I turbo. Or comparing a stock, street driven BRZ/FR-S to one that sees track time and/or has forced induction. Application, application, application.

And I totally do not get any taxi cab motor oil test. My application is much more harsh on oil. Daily trips of less than 5 miles each way, modified ECU reflash that runs rich (more fuel dilution), driving on the beach in 100F heat at high RPM's to maintain momentum, AVCS and turbo oil screens in place that are known to get blocked with sludge and cause turbo failure, etc. Taxis are pretty much running all day long with very few cold starts.


-Dennis

I know I may be reviving an old thread and this may be answered later on, but I have to ask, for someone running an edelbrock CARB tune do you think I would benefit from using the ENEOS? or something else..according to application...no track just spirited driving., maybe some canyons

[XanRules]

I keep giggling about "The Immortal Sustina."

It's all I've ever run in this car except once when I was unemployed and M1 was on sale for like less than half the cost of Sustina.

[NyC Zn6]

Eneos Sustina user here. 7K miles and oil still looks great. Looks like my intervals will be every 10k miles.

[Jfheisenberg]

I used Motul 8100 eco-lite 0w-20. Seems to work fine. I drive the car hard whenever i get the chance to drive it. I stick to the 3k miles for oil change (just for peace of mind), and also because it takes me about 3-4 months or more to hit that number.

[Gear_One_Performance]

For what it's worth we put Motul in everything, 8100 goes in most of the street cars and the 300v in all the race cars we service.

[viscositosis.rex]

Update for y'all.
I have now used Ravenol EFE 0W16 SN motor oil in my application--10k OCi x4. 40k total miles.
HTHS 2.4 (TGMO immediately shears down to not much thicker than this).
This oil uses minimal Viscosity index improvers.
VI is a low 156.
Efficiency and performance is achieved through twice the dosage in Mobil 1 of tri-nuclear moly, and friction modifiers.
There shall be no piston ring coking.
As an added bonus, this oil is green in color, just like German and Belgian Castrol.


OP, Sustina, Motul, and Ravenol are THE advanced motors oils for the 86.
Try all three and report back to us...