Eneos Sustina or Motul Oil 8100 eco-lite? 0W-20

[viscositosis.rex]

Originally Posted by aakash

Your passion for motor oil is remarkable...on the flip side ill be changing my oil this weekend with ENOS Sustina OW-20

I hope that goes well for you. It should be good for 12,500 miles, as JX Nippon claims. Start at a lower OCI, do UOAs and stretch it out. Get your money's worth out of Sustina.

BTW, I bath in motor oil. I smell funny. Women leave me. Gots to stay passionate about something.

[viscositosis.rex]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

viscositosis - A rather enjoyable string of posts there. Although, I would just like to point out one thing.

One of my pet peeves about motor oil is when people generalize an oil's performance based on uoa's and/or experience in a particular application. Application is frequently overlooked in a lot of oil discussions.

While I do believe that many people can go 10,000 miles on Sustina in many different applications, I would be cautious about flat out recommending those intervals solely based on your experience in a different automobile.

It's sort of like people that run Mobil 0W-20 or 5W-30 because "If it's good enough for [Porsche] [Audi] [BMW] [Mercedes] it's good enough for my car!". As you well know, a Euro spec oil is a complelty different animal than a GF5 Resource Conserving one.

And just like I would never compare the experience of the conventional oil used in my daughter's naturually apirated 2000 Impreza RS to the synthetic oil used in my Forester Stage I turbo. Or comparing a stock, street driven BRZ/FR-S to one that sees track time and/or has forced induction. Application, application, application.

And I totally do not get any taxi cab motor oil test. My application is much more harsh on oil. Daily trips of less than 5 miles each way, modified ECU reflash that runs rich (more fuel dilution), driving on the beach in 100F heat at high RPM's to maintain momentum, AVCS and turbo oil screens in place that are known to get blocked with sludge and cause turbo failure, etc. Taxis are pretty much running all day long with very few cold starts.


-Dennis

To restate a previous disclosure, my application and circumstances are very easy on motor oil. Those with the circumstances you describe should install an oil cooler and oil pressure gauge. Get dialed in. I would use Sustina and stretch the OCI as far beyond 10k miles as can be done per UOAs. For track days, I would change out to Red Line 20W Racing Oil or possibly Amsoil 5W20 Dominator. One additional point. I wonder why BMW is getting into the 0W20 game?

[dp1]

I tried fresh Motul 8100 0w20 on track. 256F peak oil temps with JR oil cooler and 86F ambient. Ordered European formula Castrol Edge 0w30 06244 to try next.

[viscositosis.rex]

Originally Posted by dp1

I tried fresh Motul 8100 0w20 on track. 256F peak oil temps with JR oil cooler and 86F ambient. Ordered European formula Castrol Edge 0w30 06244 to try next.

Do I understand this correctly? Your preference is for ester-based street oils for all around use, changed out just before track days? With your oil cooler and 256F temperature figure, what was your thinking in going to the heavier Castrol oil?

Thank you. I can never hear enough about group IV vs group III+.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by viscositosis.rex

Do I understand this correctly? Your preference is for ester-based street oils for all around use, changed out just before track days? With your oil cooler and 256F temperature figure, what was your thinking in going to the heavier Castrol oil?

Thank you. I can never hear enough about group IV vs group III+.

I will run Castrol during at least summer street/track months. Took recommendation from someone trusted who knows better. Might have been related to oil quality and oil pressure at track temps.

Do you have constructive feedback that's easily understandable by an oil noob like me? Thx

[viscositosis.rex]

Originally Posted by dp1

I will run Castrol during at least summer street/track months. Took recommendation from someone trusted who knows better. Might have been related to oil quality and oil pressure at track temps.

Do you have constructive feedback that's easily understandable by an oil noob like me? Thx

Ecolite and Edge Euro, group IV synthetics, will give you excellent protection under track conditions. Understand that Edge Euro is entirely different than any other Edge and that it is slightly thicker than Ecolite.

I personally like Red Line 20W racing oil. It is both thin and very stable. There is plenty of zinc. There are minimal detergent additives, which compete with anti-wear components. It would involve a changeout on track days.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by viscositosis.rex

Ecolite and Edge Euro, group IV synthetics, will give you excellent protection under track conditions. Understand that Edge Euro is entirely different than any other Edge and that it is slightly thicker than Ecolite.



I personally like Red Line 20W racing oil. It is both thin and very stable. There is plenty of zinc. There are minimal detergent additives, which compete with anti-wear components. It would involve a changeout on track days.

Great, thank you. I use redline in my lotus elise and love it. 62k miles on engine and runs as strong as new. I also like to change oil frequently, especially during warm/tracking months. Will stick with Castrol for now to see how it works out and do some oil analysis. I read somewhere that zinc is a bit overrated, though redline doesn't use too much to affect cats, your thoughts on that? It gets pretty cold during the winter in tri-state area so will stick with 0w oil at least during winter months. Euro Castrol might be a good fit year-round if it holds up as well as it should. Also, your thoughts on low FA20 pressures at high load and using 0w30 to help a little? Much appreciate your insights.

[viscositosis.rex]

Originally Posted by dp1

an oil noob like me

...not sure if you are cjsquirrely

[viscositosis.rex]

Originally Posted by dp1

I use redline in my lotus elise

...or Keiichi Tsuchiya.

[viscositosis.rex]

j/k...zinc is underrated. Many people ignore warranty issues regarding oil ratings. They are more concerned with wear than cat poisoning. Your Belgian Castrol is an SL oil.
Royal Purple HPS 5W20, Amsoil Dominator 5W20, and Quaker State Defy 5W20 are favorites of mine.

I can't comment on the issue you raised on low oil pressure/high load w/the FA20. You are right to be concerned about this issue. I don't have the knowledge base to comment. Well, Belgian Castrol 0W30 should serve you nicely in upstate New York. Mobil 1 0W40 is off the charts in cold weather capabilities.

[newbrz]

Originally Posted by mav1178

FWIW, my last change was 8000 on Sustina, and I plan on pushing it up to ~10k

-alex

You do mean to not change it for aroung 10k but occasionally topping it off right? I found once that I didn't change it for around 10k once accidentally and found that the car was lower than minimum by then. Using OEM oil by the dealership's service. Thank you beforehand.

[viscositosis.rex]

Originally Posted by newbrz

You do mean to not change it for aroung 10k but occasionally topping it off right? I found once that I didn't change it for around 10k once accidentally and found that the car was lower than minimum by then. Using OEM oil by the dealership's service. Thank you beforehand.

If mav is talking about putting Sustina in an older Camry, I would expect frequent top offs to be required. In my case, the rate was one quart every 19k miles.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by dp1

Great, thank you. I use redline in my lotus elise and love it. 62k miles on engine and runs as strong as new. I also like to change oil frequently, especially during warm/tracking months. Will stick with Castrol for now to see how it works out and do some oil analysis. I read somewhere that zinc is a bit overrated, though redline doesn't use too much to affect cats, your thoughts on that? It gets pretty cold during the winter in tri-state area so will stick with 0w oil at least during winter months. Euro Castrol might be a good fit year-round if it holds up as well as it should. Also, your thoughts on low FA20 pressures at high load and using 0w30 to help a little? Much appreciate your insights.

Euro Castrol 0W-30 has an HTHS of 3.5 or higher and has a high kinematic viscosity at 100C, closer to a 40 grade and will have oil pressure closer to a 40 grade. It will also be much thicker in winter at start-up, despite the "0W" which is tested at -35C. Bascially, anything that says Euro on the label will be thicker than anything that is not (e.g. Castrol Euro 0W-30 vs, Mobil1 0W-30).

It's the phosphorus (the P in ZDDP) that is bad for cats, but the levels in Red Line street oil aren't bad unless you're burning a lot of oil.

-Dennis

[dp1]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Euro Castrol 0W-30 has an HTHS of 3.5 or higher and has a high kinematic viscosity at 100C, closer to a 40 grade and will have oil pressure closer to a 40 grade. It will also be much thicker in winter at start-up, despite the "0W" which is tested at -35C. Bascially, anything that says Euro on the label will be thicker than anything that is not (e.g. Castrol Euro 0W-30 vs, Mobil1 0W-30).

It's the phosphorus (the P in ZDDP) that is bad for cats, but the levels in Red Line street oil aren't bad unless you're burning a lot of oil.

-Dennis

Thanks for your feedback. Not sure if it's the new tune by Mike @moto-mike, or Castrol, or a combination, but my engine runs very strong and smooth now, oil temps are lower and I no longer have black exhaust tips and tiny black dots all over the rear of my car. I was planning to switch to 0w20 before the winter.