Unable to loosen crank pulley, even with 6 foot break bar!

[Carlitoz3]

I used a breaker bar and a metal tube to give me more leverage.

[tbertran]

Originally Posted by Calum

I had to pull against the springs until they binded

Not sure what you mean... Can you explain?

[stevesnj]

Originally Posted by Calum

Are you just turning the disk against the clutch springs? When I was putting mine on I had to pull against the springs until they binded and then I was able to break it loose.

He's removing the crank pulley bolt. Are there clutch springs in there?

[stevesnj]

Also disable whatever you need to so the car doesnt start accidently

[pche]

Lots of incorrect info here...hmm...

[Luis_GT]

you seem to be doing it right... It may have been overtorqued at the factory, mine took me 10 minutes... and the hardest part was removing the pulley from the sleeve...

[Target70]

I also had to do the starter bump on my 240. but if you have a friend and a strap wrench that should help.

[DOTman05]

Chain Wrench ? And 24" 1/2 ratchet
I break em losse at work no problem all day

[Calum]

Originally Posted by tbertran

Not sure what you mean... Can you explain?

Originally Posted by stevesnj

He's removing the crank pulley bolt. Are there clutch springs in there?

When removing the crank bolt you're using the rear brakes to prevent the engine from turning. In order to use the rear brakes to stop the crank shaft from turning you need a complete mechanical path from the crank bolt to the rear tires. To achieve that mechanical path you engage the rear brakes via the parking brake, engage 6th or whatever gear in the transmission, and take your foot off the clutch pedal.

A part of this mechanical path is the clutch disk which is has a sprung hub. When you attempt to turn the bolt at the front of the crankshaft the first thing you're gonna do is take up slack (backlash) in differential and transmission, next you're going to take up slack in the driveline/bushings, next your're going to take up slack in the breaks/suspension, finally you're going to turn the clutch disk hub against the springs until they bind. At this point you can finally put torque into removing the bolt and not just turning the crankshaft and deflecting bushings & springs.

It's been a while, but I'd estimate there was about 45 deg of rotation before I could put any real force on the bar.

[connorlug]

Originally Posted by Calum

Don't do this.

Why not? This is one of the most common ways of breaking a crank bolt free on an engine where the belts are facing forwards.

[stevesnj]

Originally Posted by Calum

When removing the crank bolt you're using the rear brakes to prevent the engine from turning. In order to use the rear brakes to stop the crank shaft from turning you need a complete mechanical path from the crank bolt to the rear tires. To achieve that mechanical path you engage the rear brakes via the parking brake, engage 6th or whatever gear in the transmission, and take your foot off the clutch pedal.

A part of this mechanical path is the clutch disk which is has a sprung hub. When you attempt to turn the bolt at the front of the crankshaft the first thing you're gonna do is take up slack (backlash) in differential and transmission, next you're going to take up slack in the driveline/bushings, next you're going to take up slack in the breaks/suspension, finally you're going to turn the clutch disk hub against the springs until they bind. At this point you can finally put torque into removing the bolt and not just turning the crankshaft and deflecting bushings & springs.

It's been a while, but I'd estimate there was about 45 deg of rotation before I could put any real force on the bar.

With all due respect I think you're guessing. If the trans is removed you can't remove or install the crank bolt? At the factory they install the crank bolt last after the engine and trans is in the car? I doubt this very highly but if the FSM states so I will gladly retract this. I attached the FSM version for proper removal.

[PMPB]

Originally Posted by stevesnj

Also disable whatever you need to so the car doesnt start accidently

It's not a carburated engine with a mechanically driven distributor cap and coil... Lol.

At a minimum, he'd have to have the key in, with the ignition set to 'on'.

[J_kennington]

Originally Posted by PMPB

It's not a carburated engine with a mechanically driven distributor cap and coil... Lol.

At a minimum, he'd have to have the key in, with the ignition set to 'on'.

Pretty sure he meant for the "bump" technique of loosing the bolt. In otherwords, pull the fuse for the injectors. So when you bump the motor to break the bolt loose, the car doesn't actually fire and keep spinning.

[stevesnj]

Originally Posted by J_kennington

Pretty sure he meant for the "bump" technique of loosing the bolt. In otherwords, pull the fuse for the injectors. So when you bump the motor to break the bolt loose, the car doesn't actually fire and keep spinning.

Yeh that's what i meant. Or pull something so no spark goes to the plugs