Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[peaches]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

boost can change also depending on exh headers and cam timing
when a friend changed to skunk2 header from a UEL header with a hks supercharger, boost went down in higher rom.. but power in dyno went up
more efficient header = less resistance = less boost but more torque produced

even hks says that their bigger injector are REQUIRED for a hks v2 supercharger with 43mm restrictor
i run stock injectors without restrictor, in winter without problems

they are playing safe, doesn t necessarily mean you are obliged to follow what they say if it s not entirely true
of course you are right in saying it is adviced and a good move, totally agree.. but i hope you understand what I meant

I understand what you're saying, I just think that if there was such a magical header\exhaust setup then everyone with a supercharger would gravitate to it. I still have a Nameless header from when I was NA, I would like to change to an ACE to optimize\maximize the flow but as it is I'm not getting everything out of the car on track so at this point more power is useless to me.

Initially, my car put down 345 whp but CSG Mike looked at the logs and said it wasn't good a good tune, at the point I had not taken it to the track because of driveability issues. After I switched to Delicious I lost 19 whp but the logs look much better. 4 track days later it's still running. Just because the dyno reads higher doesn't mean the car is running better.

We're both giving advice based on experience, I lean towards safety.

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by peaches

I understand what you're saying, I just think that if there was such a magical header\exhaust setup then everyone with a supercharger would gravitate to it. I still have a Nameless header from when I was NA, I would like to change to an ACE to optimize\maximize the flow but as it is I'm not getting everything out of the car on track so at this point more power is useless to me.

Initially, my car put down 345 whp but CSG Mike looked at the logs and said it wasn't good a good tune, at the point I had not taken it to the track because of driveability issues. After I switched to Delicious I lost 19 whp but the logs look much better. 4 track days later it's still running. Just because the dyno reads higher doesn't mean the car is running better.

We're both giving advice based on experience, I lean towards safety.

good!

anyway thanks for proving my theory
that more boost doesnt necessarily means more power

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ML

I have an Omni 4bar map sensor. Tune...it’s a custom shiv tune, but who knows the status of that really.

uh... in that case, I don't really have any answer for you.

[ML]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

uh... in that case, I don't really have any answer for you.

When JR says that pulley makes 12psi, is that measured at the MAP, or before the inter-cooler at the recirculator?

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by ML

When JR says that pulley makes 12psi, is that measured at the MAP, or before the inter-cooler at the recirculator?

it s kinda the same

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ML

When JR says that pulley makes 12psi, is that measured at the MAP, or before the inter-cooler at the recirculator?

At the MAP.

[ML]

Ate my first belt this morning, happened about the same time I saw 10 psi haha. looks like the blower might be sitting to far forward just a hair and caused the belt to rub on the back and then fail....thoughts?

[JDMChris]

Originally Posted by ML

I have an Omni 4bar map sensor. Tune...it’s a custom shiv tune, but who knows the status of that really.

Switch to Ecutek.

[JDMChris]

Originally Posted by ML

Ate my first belt this morning, happened about the same time I saw 10 psi haha. looks like the blower might be sitting to far forward just a hair and caused the belt to rub on the back and then fail....thoughts?

Attachment 183756

Put the all of the OEM pulleys back on.

Also you have the wrong idler on the alternator.

[ML]

Originally Posted by JDMChris

Put the all of the OEM pulleys back on.

Also you have the wrong idler on the alternator.

Are lightweight crank pulleys no good with it? I’ve ran this Perrin one for like 7 years, I don’t even have the original anymore. And the idler pulley was the one the previous owner gave me. It’s exactly the same dimensions as the other one you are referring to.

[Grady]

Originally Posted by ML

Buy a File!

[peaches]

Originally Posted by ML

Are lightweight crank pulleys no good with it? I’ve ran this Perrin one for like 7 years, I don’t even have the original anymore. And the idler pulley was the one the previous owner gave me. It’s exactly the same dimensions as the other one you are referring to.

Nope, I had a similar issue. My belt was shifting, had to buy stock pulleys except for the crank since I have a fluid dampr. Go back to stock components and it should fix it.

[ML]

Happy new year! Sorry I know I have been asking a lot questions but I have one more: in the JRSC manual it mentions to put a one way valve on the PCV line which I do not have. But I do have a catch can on the PCV line. Do I still need he one way valve?

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by ML

Happy new year! Sorry I know I have been asking a lot questions but I have one more: in the JRSC manual it mentions to put a one way valve on the PCV line which I do not have. But I do have a catch can on the PCV line. Do I still need he one way valve?

JRSC requires (and provides) a one-way valve right at the intake manifold, I have it before the catch can. If you don't have it, you can use a Boomba check valve