Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by Calum

I'll attempt this, but with the caveatthat my knowledge on this is limited.

The reason for the issue is the size ofthe MAF housing. The MAF sensor, to my knowledge, doesn't actually measure thetotal mass of the air but the air's velocity. The size of the tube the MAFsensor is in allows the mass of the air to be extrapolated from that velocity.Using a larger housing allows for a larger maximum mass air flow because theflow velocity is lower for the same volume or mass of air per unit time, thanit would be for a smaller housing.

The only change that would be requiredto fix this is a larger MAF housing, and ensure the air doesn't become tooturbulent as it enter and exits the new sized housing.

One of the work arounds for the timebeing is to limit air velocity so the sensor doesn't go out of range. (youshould never be at the limit of a sensor as A you don't know if the actualsystem has exceeded the maximum output of the sensor, and B most sensors lose alot of accuracy in the last 10%ish of their range) The other work around is touse a mass air flow/manifold absolute pressure hybrid tune. Basically thesystem uses both systems, but relies on one or the other in the air flow rangeswhere those systems work best, in this setup.

I also need to add that IE is a horrible browser. Sorry for the times new roman but I couldn't fix it.

Appreciate that info it's more clear to me now. So that said I wonder if JR had anything in development to make this a complete non concern? Ie: as you say diff housing etc....

@Jackson Racing

[CSG Mike]

Patience, gentlemen

Remember, you don't want to go bigger for the MAF housing, and then shrink back down for the throttle body...

[Calum]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Patience, gentlemen

Remember, you don't want to go bigger for the MAF housing, and then shrink back down for the throttle body...

If the transitions are smooth enough it shouldn't cause any issues.

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by Venator

So this may be a silly question but when I get this kit will I need an better maf? If so where or what should I be getting?

You need a hybrid MAF/SD tune with Ecutek.

The MAF is used to estimate the mass of the air entering the engine (hence the name). It's a little piece of wire that the computer heats up, and tries to keep at a target temperature. The more power it takes to keep it at that temperature, the more air mass is moving past it. That's a pretty simple explanation of how it works. When you increase the size of the MAF housing you increase the range at which it can operate, but also reduce the velocity of the air moving through it. Once it gets too big, low-end drivability suffers. If it's too small, it maxes out too early.

The only solution without a downside associated is the MAF/SD hybrid. Let the MAF do what it's good at (metering air at low load, cruising up to about 100g/s), and then let SD take over from there. SD is much easier to tune and generally performs much better with boost and high amounts of airflow, so it's a benefit to use even if the MAF isn't maxing out. I use a SD hybrid on every FI car I tune, regardless of how high the MAF can scale.

I can't for the life of me figure why they'd make the housing so small though. It really limits your tuning options to Ecutek only unless someone comes out with a bigger housing (3"). Once that happens though, you should be able to tune it up to ~330-350whp(ish) without sacrificing drivability down low from the bigger MAF. I wouldn't go any bigger than 3", though, as that would require a major reducer into the throttle body and possibly slow things down enough to cause low-speed metering issues (not really sure, as I've never enountered a MAF bigger than 3" on an 86, but it seems logical to expect).

[SuperDave]

does anyone have the subaru forester2014/wrx2015 oil cooler installed with this kit? if so, is it as good as the jackson racing oil cooler?

secondly, if i were to get stronger internals for the engine, like connecting rods and pistons etc., would that be better for the engine if i was going to add this kit? would that make the carb certification invalid?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by SuperDave

does anyone have the subaru forester2014/wrx2015 oil cooler installed with this kit? if so, is it as good as the jackson racing oil cooler?

secondly, if i were to get stronger internals for the engine, like connecting rods and pistons etc., would that be better for the engine if i was going to add this kit? would that make the carb certification invalid?

The Forester oil cooler doesn't have anywhere near the BTU capacity of the oil-air Jackson Racing oil cooler.

Stronger internals won't have any effect if the specs are the same. Theoretically, it would be completely undetectable, but technically your car would not be legal.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by SuperDave

does anyone have the subaru forester2014/wrx2015 oil cooler installed with this kit? if so, is it as good as the jackson racing oil cooler?

secondly, if i were to get stronger internals for the engine, like connecting rods and pistons etc., would that be better for the engine if i was going to add this kit? would that make the carb certification invalid?

As good at what? The obvious conclusion is you're asking if the OEM forester oil cooler removes heat from the engine oil with the same rate as the Jackson Racing oil cooler. Considering the Jackson Racing oil cooler's hoses have more surface area and a larger temperature differential than the entire OEM system, let alone the actual heat exchanger used in the Jackson Racing kit, I'd have to hazard a guess that the OEM kit isn't going to work nearly as well.

[*LongFella]

Originally Posted by SuperDave

does anyone have the subaru forester2014/wrx2015 oil cooler installed with this kit? if so, is it as good as the jackson racing oil cooler?

secondly, if i were to get stronger internals for the engine, like connecting rods and pistons etc., would that be better for the engine if i was going to add this kit? would that make the carb certification invalid?

You're going to want the Jackson Racing Oil Cooler Kit. It's worth every penny and will be better in the long run (IMO).

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by jamesm

You need a hybrid MAF/SD tune with Ecutek.

The MAF is used to estimate the mass of the air entering the engine (hence the name). It's a little piece of wire that the computer heats up, and tries to keep at a target temperature. The more power it takes to keep it at that temperature, the more air mass is moving past it. That's a pretty simple explanation of how it works. When you increase the size of the MAF housing you increase the range at which it can operate, but also reduce the velocity of the air moving through it. Once it gets too big, low-end drivability suffers. If it's too small, it maxes out too early.

The only solution without a downside associated is the MAF/SD hybrid. Let the MAF do what it's good at (metering air at low load, cruising up to about 100g/s), and then let SD take over from there. SD is much easier to tune and generally performs much better with boost and high amounts of airflow, so it's a benefit to use even if the MAF isn't maxing out. I use a SD hybrid on every FI car I tune, regardless of how high the MAF can scale.

I can't for the life of me figure why they'd make the housing so small though. It really limits your tuning options to Ecutek only unless someone comes out with a bigger housing (3"). Once that happens though, you should be able to tune it up to ~330-350whp(ish) without sacrificing drivability down low from the bigger MAF. I wouldn't go any bigger than 3", though, as that would require a major reducer into the throttle body and possibly slow things down enough to cause low-speed metering issues (not really sure, as I've never enountered a MAF bigger than 3" on an 86, but it seems logical to expect).

And... I learned even more thanks. So conclusion is "it's not as simple as just increasing air flow piping". Makes sense based on what you've explained for sure. Very interested to see where this goes.

[King Tut]

The "pcv valve" is really just a check valve and is there to prevent the crankcase from being pressureized during boost. I would place the catch can inline between the crankcase and the check valve so it won't see boost either, but the catch can should be able to withstand boost and can be placed on either side of the check valve.

[CSG Mike]

@normancw: Yes, and you definitely want a catch can when you're boosted.

[*LongFella]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

@normancw: Yes, and you definitely want a catch can when you're boosted.

I'm a noob to the whole catch can thing... Why do you needed it when boosted???

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by *LongFella

I'm a noob to the whole catch can thing... Why do you needed it when boosted???

Normally, your intake manifold is strictly under vaccuum. With boost, it'll see the opposite, where it's pressurized. The conditions lead to an increase in blow by and oil vapers that can enter the intake manifold.

The catch can separates that when it's going through the PCV system, and collects it.

Net effect: you don't burn oil in your cylinders, which prevents misfires.

It's not really a huge issue, but if you're doing hard cornering, it becomes something you want to address. Sloshing oil is easily sucked up by the PCV valve due to it's location.

[*LongFella]

Basically, if I'm doing some heaving tracking or constant cornering all day I'm going to want to invest it in?