Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by enivid

I battled similar issues. Fuel trims were terrible. Car almost died a few times, sluggish behavior, etc. I spent 6 months trying to figure it out. Finally found it was the God damn maf oring. It just became stretched out and leaked.

That's why the kit comes with a replacement

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by lastexile1987

Guys, I need some real help. I just had my sc installed over the weekend (professionally installed). Today while running some errands, the oil light came on and as soon as I parked, the engine bay started to smoke. When I opened the hood, there was fluid all over the engine and fluid leaking. Based on the oil indicator and the low oil level on the dipstick, I'm assuming the oil lines were not put on properly. I am not any kind of expert on this type of thing and this is the first time I've dealt with anything like this, so this is just my best guess. What do you guys think happened. If you need more info, I'll try and provide what info I can.

Also, the exhaust manifold was smoking but that has stopped since. I'm afraid of taking the car to any of the local oil places (jiffy lube, etc.) In case something happens again.

The Oil Light is a stupid light. Somewhere, your car has an oil leak. I highly recommend you have the car TOWED to that shop, and make them replace everything damaged by the faulty installation.

If the oil light was on, there is a good chance that your engine can be damaged; your oil pressure has to drop for it to come on, meaning enough oil leaked out that the oil pickup got starved.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by enivid

Fill it up... Turn it on

Do not, DO NOT do this. The engine is still dry. You need to get lubricant (oil) in the system first.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by lastexile1987

Found it!!!

Now just have to fix it lol

Don't DIY. Make the shop do it, so that you have a paper trail and are protected.

[lastexile1987]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Don't DIY. Make the shop do it, so that you have a paper trail and are protected.

Thanks for the input. Found the problem, loose connection. The oil was very low but not depleted. Replaced the oil and let it run for a little. The car ran for a little to allow the oil the circulate and there have been no issues so far, thank god. I'm gonna call the shop and have it fixed and checked.

[campy]

Originally Posted by *LongFella

I was going back and forth about pulling the JRSC and Oil Cooler kit off. I had a few people interested, but nobody wants to deal with the EcuTek re-licensing... I'm open if you know someone...

I got one of the 500 pre-order launch edition 2015 Golf R's. I had a LIST of boxes that needed to be checked for my next toy and this one checked most of them compared to everything else I looked.

Ok... no flamming me for getting a VW... LOL!

I've already started a build thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...R-Build-Thread

What are your impressions of the Golf R compared to the supercharged FRS?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by lastexile1987

Thanks for the input. Found the problem, loose connection. The oil was very low but not depleted. Replaced the oil and let it run for a little. The car ran for a little to allow the oil the circulate and there have been no issues so far, thank god. I'm gonna call the shop and have it fixed and checked.

The problem is that damage it may have done to the journal bearings that your crank shaft runs in, the connecting rods run in, the cams run in...

[alpax]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Do you have any vaccuum leaks?

Originally Posted by enivid

I battled similar issues. Fuel trims were terrible. Car almost died a few times, sluggish behavior, etc. I spent 6 months trying to figure it out. Finally found it was the God damn maf oring. It just became stretched out and leaked.

Thanks for the info guys.
So, most likely it's a leak somewhere?
I checked the intake part - used the same approach from the DSM days: pumped some compressed air into the system from SC to the throttle body inlet. It seems to be air-tight - I found no leaks, including the MAF. Just to make sure, I replaced the O-ring with the one, which came with the kit. The replacement ring looks a bit stronger, and with this new one it was easier to insert the MAF sensor into the tube - previously I had to jiggle and push it from side to side, I guess the old ring was actually slightly stretched. Now it went in just with a straight push, and felt like a tight fit. Will see if it solves the problem.

In case if I'll need further investigation, how should I check for the vacuum leaks?

[alpax]

I cleaned the fault codes and logged some more data. The difference in fuel trim values is crazy!

Before:



After:



No wonder I got those fault codes - looks like normally the trims have to be around 0, LTFT at +/-5%, and I had that around -5%...-35%, which is way off!

Well, now after replacing the MAF sensor O-ring, I'll be monitoring the behavior. Keeping my fingers crossed...

[FirestormFRS]

Originally Posted by lastexile1987

Thanks for the input. Found the problem, loose connection. The oil was very low but not depleted. Replaced the oil and let it run for a little. The car ran for a little to allow the oil the circulate and there have been no issues so far, thank god. I'm gonna call the shop and have it fixed and checked.

Allow me since you seem to be a bit of a novice at the whole modding a car thing.

1. When you pay a shop to work on a car you don't work on a car.

2. When a shop messes up and leaves an oil cooler line loose you don't fix it for them. See #1.

3. When your car has little to no oil (the dummy light comes on) you're wearing internals out at a frighteningly fast pace. You put thousands of miles worth of wear on the bearings if you ran it with the light on for any length of time.

4. Modding a car is an expensive habit. You only add to that cost by not knowing the simplest of things about a car.

[lastexile1987]

Originally Posted by FirestormFRS

Allow me since you seem to be a bit of a novice at the whole modding a car thing.

1. When you pay a shop to work on a car you don't work on a car.

2. When a shop messes up and leaves an oil cooler line loose you don't fix it for them. See #1.

3. When your car has little to no oil (the dummy light comes on) you're wearing internals out at a frighteningly fast pace. You put thousands of miles worth of wear on the bearings if you ran it with the light on for any length of time.

4. Modding a car is an expensive habit. You only add to that cost by not knowing the simplest of things about a car.

I'm just going to do this one post then drop this issue.

As I've stated, I am a novice in this whole modding hobby. I do this for the fun and learning. I do this to have a car unlike anybody else in the area. I've just really started modifying cars with the brz. I've never even had to have any past cars towed before. So yes, I am very inexperienced with these types of issues. That is why I posted my problem, with as much detail as possible, and waited for any responses.

I have already heeded the advice given, long before your post, and have contacted the installer to have the car towed and checked for any damage this may have caused.

While I do appreciate your input, albeit late, I do not appreciate the tone (my interpretation) that came along with it.

These forums and these cars are for learning and that is what I am trying to do. I'm sure you started just like everyone else and I'm sure you would not have liked for someone to tell you that because you are a novice you should give up because you did not know the "simple" concepts about cars yet. Where would any of us be if we gave up when we ran into our first issues.

Like I said before, I'm not going to reply about this anymore since I am in the process of getting the car fixed, but please refrain from using such "know it all" tones with newbies. It is very discouraging and does not help anything during such a stressful time.

I know from your post history and seeing you post numerous helpful posts that you are very experienced with cars and can offer great advice, but this whole debaucle has been too stressful and your post rubbed me the wrong way.

[enivid]

Originally Posted by alpax

Well, now after replacing the MAF sensor O-ring, I'll be monitoring the behavior. Keeping my fingers crossed...

I ended up buying a bag of orings so anytime I have to pull the sensor out, I can just put a fresh one in.

[Churg]

I keep looking back at this thread, and it makes me want the JRSC so much more every time I look. Seems like the only way to go in California if you want to keep the car for over 5 years without dealing with massive headaches...

[Xuningshen]

This is about my Innovate oil press/temp gauge setup.

First off, Thought about posting this in the general engine/transmisson one but kinda wanted more jr kit specific answers.

Second, I'd only like replies from guys who have done this with their own hands before. Thanks

Third, on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being Macgyver ducktape and 10 being professional) how would you rate this brass fitting setup? lol



Its been taking me forever to figure this out, I thought I did enough reading up but I've been failing, this is revision 3 of my setup.

1st setup was having the temp sensor plugged straight into that gallery next to the AC condensor. I got a really accurate reading there. Oil temp would hover when I hit the 185^ thermostat temp on the jr oil cooler kit, when I was just casually driving around. I didn't have the oil sender plugged in yet. (I was trying to figure out how I wanted to fit it.)

2nd revision was having the SS braided relocating line plugged straight into the gallery, then having the brass fittings on the opposite end, off the block, just so it wouldn't be vibrating so much and all, with a Tee that had both temp and pressure sender hooked up. the problem was the oil temp didn't even get hot, it actually never read over 120^f.

3rd revision(how it is currently sitting) is this, what you see in the photo above. Pretty ghetto, I know. still the oil temp sensor isn't getting saturated in oil enough, and is reading about 40-60^f cooler than what it actually should be (based off temps I saw with my 1st setup)

Before I did the the piece of artwork above(sarcasm, plus spending 100 on brass fittings and having a bunch extra, plus a non-optimal fitting setup from changing it so much.. ) I thought about leaving the temp sensor straight in the block, like originally in setup 1. Doing a Tee at the stock oil pressure sensor with one of these guys.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=11217

I actually bought one of those. but then looking closer at it Im going to hit the JRSC recirculating valve/tubes if I try to install this fitting on there.... doohh...

SOOOOO I'm kinda stuck right now. I definately dont want to leave it how i have it setup right now. its more of a temporary fix so I can at least be running both press and temp. also i'm running the JR oil cooler kit, and really dont want to put another sandwhich plate on there. (I bought a racing beat one and started stacking it, but after looking at it... how tall... i decided against doing it.)

TL;dr need to fix setup to get accurate temp readings.
any help would be good lol. thanks. (This is my first time doing any of this gauge stuff.)