Clutch pedal loud squeak

[ZZT86]

Was it poor grease or something else ? Is it common in cars generally ? A nice "How To" with tips would be awesome as I can see myself doing this but not every year :|

[Tt3Sheppard]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

TOB failure is a real thing but this creak/squeak has nothing to do with that. All the people that are having them replaced is because the plastic bushing in the center wears down enough to warrant replacement. Now that I've had the trans out I know I can drop it, clean the parts, and reinstall in an afternoon. I'll be doing this annually.

So I guess nothing to worry about for now.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by ZZT86

Was it poor grease or something else ? Is it common in cars generally ? A nice "How To" with tips would be awesome as I can see myself doing this but not every year :|

No, it's not common. In fact, it's unacceptable. This is not "wear and tear," it's the consequences of a poor decision. They picked a grease that wasn't up to the task.

If mine doesn't start squeaking again in a year, I'll still get in there to inspect at least once to see how my choice of lube holds up.

I did come up with a couple nice tricks for removing the transmission and I applaud Subaru for keeping serviceability in mind. Of all the drivelines I've done, this one is by far the easiest but it's still a transmission swap. I'm a big guy so my technique involves physically bench-pressing it into place.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tt3Sheppard

So I guess nothing to worry about for now.

Nah. It's not the end of the world.

[bhbnuckle]

Hey guys. Im planning to put somr lubrication in clutch fork inside tranny.
Slave xylinder need to be removed in order to spray inside pivot point?



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[Tt3Sheppard]

I kind of wonder if the lithium grease I used cleaned up the grit/tar like lube that you pictured. I know it has some dirt cleaning/grabbing properties.

[Ultramaroon]

Nah, just added to the mess. It all cleans up ok.

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

TOB failure is a real thing but this creak/squeak has nothing to do with that. All the people that are having them replaced is because the plastic bushing in the center wears down enough to warrant replacement. Now that I've had the trans out I know I can drop it, clean the parts, and reinstall in an afternoon. I'll be doing this annually.

So since the creak doesn't annoy me too much (yet) would a good idea be to let it go until I get closer to the end of the powertrain warranty, so that I can wait and see if I have throwout bearing issues too, and THEN bring it in and just hopefully have a bunch of stuff replaced in one fell swoop? I only have 32,000 miles at the moment so I've got another year-and-a-half or so before I approach the 60,000 mile mark. I HATE having people work on my car, so the less times I bring it in, the better, lol.

[Readytoxplod]

My squeak returned damnit. All dealership did was spray lube in there rather than replacing anything.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback

So since the creak doesn't annoy me too much (yet) would a good idea be to let it go until I get closer to the end of the powertrain warranty, so that I can wait and see if I have throwout bearing issues too, and THEN bring it in and just hopefully have a bunch of stuff replaced in one fell swoop? I only have 32,000 miles at the moment so I've got another year-and-a-half or so before I approach the 60,000 mile mark. I HATE having people work on my car, so the less times I bring it in, the better, lol.

I think the only real concern is if the TOB starts to bind on the snout. That's the crunchiness people feel at the bottom of the throw. At that point it's possible to break the clutch fork.

[Ultramaroon]

"Nah" two posts in a row does not read well. Nah nah nah nah...

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I think the only real concern is if the TOB starts to bind on the snout. That's the crunchiness people feel at the bottom of the throw. At that point it's possible to break the clutch fork.

Hmm. The "crunch" I'm feeling is just a lack of perfectly smooth pedal travel that aligns itself with each individual creak. Do you thin that's the TOB binding on something, or just the lack of lubrication causing the fork to slide a bit unevenly. I would assume the latter. The "crunch" doesn't occur when I first start the car, as there is also no creaking noise until it is warmed up.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback

Hmm. The "crunch" I'm feeling is just a lack of perfectly smooth pedal travel that aligns itself with each individual creak. Do you thin that's the TOB binding on something, or just the lack of lubrication causing the fork to slide a bit unevenly. I would assume the latter. The "crunch" doesn't occur when I first start the car, as there is also no creaking noise until it is warmed up.

Remember that the whole arrangement is a huge force multiplier. We haven't seen a rash of broken forks so I'll guess that it's not a problem. The inside diameter of the TOB is some sort of high-density polymer so it would really have to be out of whack before it jammed hard.

What used to be grease is really sticky; more like rosin now. There is definitely some binding. I guess just keep that in mind and be careful if it seems to get worse.

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Remember that the whole arrangement is a huge force multiplier. We haven't seen a rash of broken forks so I'll guess that it's not a problem. The inside diameter of the TOB is some sort of high-density polymer so it would really have to be out of whack before it jammed hard.

What used to be grease is really sticky; more like rosin now. There is definitely some binding. I guess just keep that in mind and be careful if it seems to get worse.

Yeah, I think I'll let it go for now. It isn't causing any drive-ability issues, and the creak isn't that bad. Since this seems to be a common issue, I'd rather let it go as long as possibly before replacing it so that I don't have to deal with fixing it out of warranty as soon. (Though being halfway through my power-train warranty, maybe it makes sense to get it fixed now on the premise that I can get it fixed again right at the 60k mark, lol.