Whiteline KCA416 or Crash Bolt for slotted upper strut?

[hanabie]

@switchlanez, I used spc bolts the 16mm. Ah thanks for the tip, I guess the aftermarket gasket for camber adj helps too from slipping.

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[hanabie]

You might add something to increase the surface friction. Im not sure but Id go with aftermarket bolts if I were you.

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[switchlanez]

Ya, if these guys are running aftermarket eccentric bolts, then maybe they have toothed washers to help keep from slipping:



OEM camber bolts and nuts are flat, not toothed. I say just go with toothed SPC or Whitelines (if they are indeed toothed) or do what I did and go with the regular 16mm OEM bolts. I got -2.0/-1.7 with them on my slotted ST coilovers.

[switchlanez]

You might be able to get away with using 14mm OEM camber bolts with Vorshlag slugs which I found googling "slotted strut inserts brz." Just not sure where to get them or if they'll fit your slotted coilovers.

[smbstyle]

Hm, well I never had a problem with the 14mm bolts in the slotted holes (torqued to 130ft/lbs), many people running them as well without issue on RCE or KWs.

I've got some HARD track miles on my setup and have no issue at all. No slipping whatsoever.

[FR-S Matt]

The SPC/Whiteline camber bolts have a Square Plate specifically for slotted upper struts. My Whiteline instructions mentioned nothing about this, but as someone said in another thread, these are rebranded SPC bolts.

http://www.spcalignment.net/instruct...50-INS_WEB.pdf

I did not even try to install the square washer. I need to go back and do that. Seems like there are mixed answers on 14mm crash bolts vs 16mm SPC/Whiteline camber bolts in slotted upper struts. I think I will try to use the 16mm eccentric bolts when I go in to get aligned. The toothed design should keep it from slipping, especially with the additional square washer plus the tabbed washer. I should be able to get -2 up front on both sides, or get really close on the Tarmac 0's.

[fooddude]

@switchlanez: You sure it wasn't positive camber when installed like others said and like you mentioned (or maybe you forgot to torque it correctly...I really doubt 115-130ftlbs would easily slip)?? From the pics, there is absolutely no scratches between the circle's lobe's edges of those 2 bite marks. If it slipped, there would be at least horizontal scratch//scuff marks between those 2 circles/bite-marks at the edges (especially at 115ftlbs), making a perfect flush oval shape...and I'm just not seeing that at all - I'm seeing 2 circle bite marks and not a flush oval. The only way it would slip without leaving deep marks is if wasn't torques down properly, or it was already in the positive position.

[switchlanez]

Originally Posted by fooddude

@switchlanez: You sure it wasn't positive camber when installed like others said and like you mentioned (or maybe you forgot to torque it correctly...I really doubt 115-130ftlbs would easily slip)?? From the pics, there is absolutely no scratches between the circle's lobe's edges of those 2 bite marks. If it slipped, there would be at least horizontal scratch//scuff marks between those 2 circles/bite-marks at the edges, making a perfect flush oval shape...and I'm just not seeing that at all - I'm seeing 2 circle bite marks and not a flush oval.

Scuff marks due to slippage from fully negative to fully positive camber:



How it appeared on only one side might be due to the way dynamic forces were applied.

[switchlanez]

If you google it, multiple people on different forums (including one old post on this forum) advise against camber bolts in a slotted hole. Though failure rate isn't 100%, there must be a reason various people say the same thing. Same reason aftermarket camber bolts come with extra provisions (teeth and special washers) to prevent slippage.

The OEM camber bolt was designed for use with the stock circular holed strut. Using it on a slutted strut is outside its intended design.

Likewise, slotted coilovers were designed to fit with other stock components. When you start attaching parts not accounted for in the original design, things get unpredicatable.

[garfull]

my experience, ymmv
oem 16mm bolt = -1.0
9/16" bolt = -1.2, i would expect the same using a 14mm bolt
camber bolt = -1.7

[FR-S Matt]

So after further inspection, camber bolts aren't doing much unless you can fit the square plate in the slotted strut with the dimples.

16MM bolt appears to have given me a good amount of camber even more so than the camber bolt with the locked washer. 14MM bolt would be even more, but I think the 16MM one might get me to -2. If not, I'll probably go with a 14MM crash bolt. Camber bolts have to be modified with a plate to fit in the slotted upper hole. I would have to widen the upper hole a bit more to get the plate to fit. I think at this point, camber plates are the next choice for even more camber.