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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe


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Old 01-09-2014, 10:12 AM   #15
DarkSunrise
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I had a similar choice when buying my FR-S. New FR-S vs. used Cayman S. It was close for me, but in the end, I didn't think a 6 yo used CS at $32k offered the same value as a brand new FR-S at $25k. I test-drove a PCS for about 2 hrs and never got that "must have it"feel, although the rear engine note and power were fantastic.

I'd go with your gut though, and it sounds like your's is telling you PCS.

Responses to your q's anyway:

- With 215 width max summer tires stretched on 8" wide lighter wheels, steering response improves a bit.
- Look into JPM Coachworks for replacement trim
- The most cost-effective NA mods are prob OFH + OFT. About $1k for 190whp (~220 crank) on pump.
- These cars are great at the intermediate level for the track. You can push the car to the limit without worry about getting bit too hard. Stock brakes are fine as long as you upgrade pads and fluid.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:29 AM   #16
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Save up for the Cayman? Forget that; get a BRZ in the meantime. It's an absolute blast, and you get used to not having any power (I went from a CTS-V and 608rwhp Cobra to a Miata and then a BRZ, and I'm happy).

If you are worried about dumping money into it, but want some HP, go with the FT86 Speed Factory catted UEL header; no CEL issues and gives great gains, and gets rid of the torque dip. Add an overpipe and HFC front pipe, drop in filter, and you should have some good gains; especially through the mid-range.

The Super Sports totally transformed this car. I did my first day on track with OEM tires and they were horrible; dropped about 5 seconds off my lap times switching to a grippier street tire.

For track, you'll NEED pads and fluid, but i'd definitely recommend tires as well. Consumables are great on this car; rear pads and rotors last forever, and front pads and rotors are dirt cheap for the car.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:51 AM   #17
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I think all the silver dash trim will swap out for the black trim on a standard car, or from an FRS. Funny, I was thinking of doing that actually.

However, this car will never deliver a Cayman driving experience, especially on a track.

The point of this car is a bit Walter Mitty (now the movie is out this allusion can be understood by the new generation). The idea of this car is to have fun at legal ish speeds on the street and still have fun on a track without mods, or if you wish you can mod like crazy for not insane money and then approach the performance of much more expensive cars. To do that you need to keep the car until the warranty is over or TRD releases its fully warranteed supercharger kit we all just know Toyota has in its testing program....

If you already drive at a high level then this car may not satisfy you. It is a bit toy like.

Why not drive the Cayman in winter? It is an ideal winter car and completely capable. It will run circles around any M3 on winter roads.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:52 AM   #18
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I think the key is to drive something slower than the BRZ for your other car. I sold my 336WHP 135i to get my BRZ, but I had already been driving my 145HP 360000KM 1994 Impreza for a few months with the BMW parked, so the BRZ feels like a rocket (truthfully I haven't even driven my BRZ yet but test driving one felt like a rocket.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:57 AM   #19
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If you feel the only way to buy this car is to add forced induction, don't buy it and save up for the used Cayman.

The trick with these cars is that you have to flog the engine. If you are not living above 5K rpm, you are most likely driving right through the torque dip. These cars are not fast, but if you really flog the engine, it wakes up and it is much more fun to drive. So if your test drive was very conservative you may want to try and give it another shot.

As for the track, you are most likely going to want new tires, better brake pads, etc. Talk to CounterSpace Garage (Mike CSG) they will help you in understanding what you will need. If you track a lot in the summer you are going to have to address the heat so you will need to invest in engine and oil cooling as the ECU in this car really cuts back on power once the engine heats up and especially if it is hot outside.

If you are serious about tracking the car and adding power I highly recommend watching the videos and writeups Dezoris from this site has posted (he is Savagegeese on Youtube). It will really help breakdown what it will cost to make this car more powerful as a daily driver, at the track, and how to make it reliable. And the guy is brutally honest and does not sugar coat the car like some people will.
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:04 AM   #20
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With regards to the power, take a look at a stock car dyno. There's a big torque dip from about 3.5k-5.

If you learn to straddle that dip the car is a lot more enjoyable.


In my situation I'd love to pick up something fancier. But the reality is I'm too much of a Jew for that, considering the miles I drive.

Consider this car basically a fun rwd commuter appliance. Very good mpg relative to the fun, reasonable practicality when the back seat stays down, dead nuts simple maintenance and cheap operating costs.

In terms of bang for the buck it's a very good car if it fits your needs. But it isn't a baby Porsche, despite what the people with a frz tattoo claim.
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:04 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRZZZZZZZZZZ View Post
I think the key is to drive something slower than the BRZ for your other car. I sold my 336WHP 135i to get my BRZ, but I had already been driving my 145HP 360000KM 1994 Impreza for a few months with the BMW parked, so the BRZ feels like a rocket (truthfully I haven't even driven my BRZ yet but test driving one felt like a rocket.
Other than today and a couple other days, I've been driving a 4-cylinder Jeep all winter. So that's a nice 120hp in a 3100 pound vehicle. Funny enough, it's pretty fun to drive in its own archaic way.
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:05 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by boxer 2.5 View Post
Holy overpriced! That car is worth about $29-30k.
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:06 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by thill View Post
If you feel the only way to buy this car is to add forced induction, don't buy it and save up for the used Cayman.
Nah, not interested in FI - defeats the purpose of getting a cheap car with a warranty over the Cayman. What I am interested is a couple mods that helps the car feel a little more spirited in the powerband.
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:08 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkiv808 View Post
Other than today and a couple other days, I've been driving a 4-cylinder Jeep all winter. So that's a nice 120hp in a 3100 pound vehicle. Funny enough, it's pretty fun to drive in its own archaic way.
Exactly my thoughts, my Impreza is actually set up for some oversteer (no rear sway bar, limited slip rear diff, WRX suspension) and its old and miled out, but its still hella fun to drive especially in all the snow we get here in Alberta, the BRZ is going to feel just that much better when the time comes for me, but I know stepping back down into my Impreza will still be fun for other reasons, especially on those shitty days when I don't want to drive the BRZ.
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:09 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Suberman View Post

Why not drive the Cayman in winter? It is an ideal winter car and completely capable. It will run circles around any M3 on winter roads.

This area is the salt belt. Nice cars get put away for winter.




That said I've been having such a ball in the frz in storms I haven't even bothered with changing over my forester (basically a modded sti) over to its winter set.

If this car rusts away, don't care, in few years there will be 10k examples out there. That and I'm anal about undercarriage washes


Quote:
Originally Posted by BRZZZZZZZZZZ View Post
I think the key is to drive something slower than the BRZ for your other car. I sold my 336WHP 135i to get my BRZ, but I had already been driving my 145HP 360000KM 1994 Impreza for a few months with the BMW parked, so the BRZ feels like a rocket (truthfully I haven't even driven my BRZ yet but test driving one felt like a rocket.
Or the opposite direction.

Said forester is about 300ish whp (vf39 + full boltons)

I appreciate it's power a whole lot more now than I ever did when driving it everyday.



Basically frz makes for a great guilt free dd.
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:17 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by utekineir View Post
This area is the salt belt. Nice cars get put away for winter.




That said I've been having such a ball in the frz in storms I haven't even bothered with changing over my forester (basically a modded sti) over to its winter set.

If this car rusts away, don't care, in few years there will be 10k examples out there. That and I'm anal about undercarriage washes




Or the opposite direction.

Said forester is about 300ish whp (vf39 + full boltons)

I appreciate it's power a whole lot more now than I ever did when driving it everyday.



Basically frz makes for a great guilt free dd.
I wish I could afford a Forester like that for my winter car LOL
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:19 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by mkiv808 View Post
Nah, not interested in FI - defeats the purpose of getting a cheap car with a warranty over the Cayman. What I am interested is a couple mods that helps the car feel a little more spirited in the powerband.
If you have access to E85, then exhaust, a tune and E85 will be the cheapest way to go and should really wake the car up and give you an extra 40hp and another 10ft lbs of torque. Otherwise a downpipe and a tune will be the second best option most likely. Most of the other stuff (intake, exhaust) alone is not going to give you much at all. This car averages around 155whp and 140ft lbs of torque at a dyno and you should be able to hit 200whp and 150ish ft lbs of torque without forced induction. If you want more than that you are looking at forced induction.
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:26 AM   #28
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Unfortunately E85 is not really available in my state. I think 190whp would be fine.
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