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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#29 |
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My car on stock brakes with Dunlop ZII's couldn't engage ABS anymore when the tires were warm and I could overheat the pads badly in a hurry, switching to better fluid (ATE Super Blue) and pads (Ferodo DS2500) and haven't overheated the pads since, and can easily engage ABS.
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#30 |
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It all depends on your individual needs.
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#31 |
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100% agreed! I know that if I were to hand my car over to Mike he'd overheat the pads no problem
![]() Just another addition to what I said above, if you compare 100% stock brakes to a typical BBK on sticky tires you will see a decrease in stopping distance, BUT that's because the BBK comes with better pads. If you were to simply put better pads in the stock calipers you'd see the same results. A BBK with thicker rotors will help dissipate heat so the brakes don't hold as much heat, but that only helps prevent fade, not reduce stopping distance.
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#32 | |
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#33 |
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#34 |
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- I run the RPF1 17x8 +45 on the track, without issues. - I run the OZ Ultraleggera 17x8 +48 on the street, without issues (lots of clearance). |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to TemeCal For This Useful Post: | JRitt (01-10-2014) |
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#37 | |
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That headunit though...
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Done that too many times in other cars. It is something that's good to learn and take care of early to help minimize the "oh shit" moments ![]() Thanks for the info in this thread everyone. Helps for other people besides OP I'm sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#38 | |||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ZDan For This Useful Post: | Tye300 (01-09-2014) |
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#39 |
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I'm confused because some people recommend getting a bbk, and some are against it and say just get better pads and fluid. Hope that clears things up.
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#40 | |
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![]() There are other BBK benefits (weight savings, consumables [wear rate and cost in some areas], feel/modulation, etc) also that aren't directly related to their primary purpose (additional thermal capacity and increased/more efficient heat removal - although consumables wear rate is affected by that also). As an example of what these brakes can do, I faded the hell out of XP10s, ATE Super blue (both glazed the pads and boiled fluid) at sebring with the OEM gear. With the AP sprint kit (and AP 600 fluid/CL RC6E pads) I tried to destroy them braking at the absolute last possible spot for a 30 minute session and only cracked a rotor. And that was because I didn't let it cool down, I parked it with smoking rotors and jumped in the race car and went back out. If I let them cool down they would have been fine.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dave-ROR For This Useful Post: | Tye300 (01-09-2014) |
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#41 | |
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![]() If it's strictly a street car, you'd be okay with just a pad upgrade. - Andy
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#42 |
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Thanks for helping out guys!
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