Combating the heat

[toekneehair]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

No cooling mods? I'm not surprised you're overheating. What was your baseline dyno, and your post-turbo dyno?

Is the turbo oil cooled or water cooled?

Whats your long term power and sustainability goal?

what do you mean no cooling mods?

the Full blown radiator is much larger then the stock one. the mishimoto oil cooler is an added way to bring down oil temps. the heat wrap is used to keep temps down as much as possible filtering that heat down until below the engine and on its way out.

The turbo is water cooled, GT2871R

I haven't Dyno'd yet. I am running their base map. I am waiting on a few parts and then I will be doing a local dyno tune.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by toekneehair

what do you mean no cooling mods?

the Full blown radiator is much larger then the stock one. the mishimoto oil cooler is an added way to bring down oil temps. the heat wrap is used to keep temps down as much as possible filtering that heat down until below the engine and on its way out.

The turbo is water cooled, GT2871R

I haven't Dyno'd yet. I am running their base map. I am waiting on a few parts and then I will be doing a local dyno tune.

Wow, I brain farted twice today; I totally missed the radiator.

I'd recommend you upgrade fans. How much clearance do you have behind the radiator? If you can give me measurements, I can give you a fan recommendation.

A vented hood (properly louvered, not just vented) will help immensely, but draws a lot of attention. You don't want to risk getting popped...

Also, get a "Friends of Palomar" membership. It's gotten me out of a ticket on the way up before.

[toekneehair]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Wow, I brain farted twice today; I totally missed the radiator.

I'd recommend you upgrade fans. How much clearance do you have behind the radiator? If you can give me measurements, I can give you a fan recommendation.

A vented hood (properly louvered, not just vented) will help immensely, but draws a lot of attention. You don't want to risk getting popped...

Also, get a "Friends of Palomar" membership. It's gotten me out of a ticket on the way up before.

yea I have been trying to keep it as stock looking as possible. but I am not seeing many other options lately.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by toekneehair

yea I have been trying to keep it as stock looking as possible. but I am not seeing many other options lately.

I'd recommend a REALLY powerful fan.

We actually run that setup on our ~400hp s2k; stock radiator and a 20A 12" SPAL (which we sell).

PM me the measurements on your fan clearance, and I'll get you a recommendation.

[Brody602]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Wow, I brain farted twice today; I totally missed the radiator.

I'd recommend you upgrade fans. How much clearance do you have behind the radiator? If you can give me measurements, I can give you a fan recommendation.

A vented hood (properly louvered, not just vented) will help immensely, but draws a lot of attention. You don't want to risk getting popped...

Also, get a "Friends of Palomar" membership. It's gotten me out of a ticket on the way up before.

Can you recommend a properly louvered hood?

[toekneehair]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'd recommend a REALLY powerful fan.

We actually run that setup on our ~400hp s2k; stock radiator and a 20A 12" SPAL (which we sell).

PM me the measurements on your fan clearance, and I'll get you a recommendation.

you can look at the kit.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51831

I can look at the clearance later

but the fans look like a 12v 80w.

doing a little research I think this fan has the following stats
Size: 12'', 2.5'' Thickness, 1250 CFM, 2100 RPM, 12V, 80W, 7 AMPS.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by toekneehair

you can look at the kit.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51831

I can look at the clearance later

but the fans look like a 12v 80w.

doing a little research I think this fan has the following stats
Size: 12'', 2.5'' Thickness, 1250 CFM, 2100 RPM, 12V, 80W, 7 AMPS.

I can't quite see if there's about 4" of total clearance. If there is, we have a solution for you. If there's less, tell me the total amount, and we can replace two of the fans to compensate.

@CSG David is in SD.... maybe you two should coordinate.

[BRZPDX]

I found these online with a 5 min search. Keep the OEM hood and just use these? I wonder which section to cut for optimal heat release?

http://www.hoodlouvers.com/product-c...-cut-7-x-2214/

They do look kinda muscle car ish though.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Gen

It was between 65-70 F (18-21 C) degrees here. Despite what most of the shops are saying, there IS an issue with heat and these turbo kits.

I have a 25 row setrab oil cooler, Koyo radiator, turbo blanket, vented fenders, and yes, it will get dangerously warm if pushed hard for a long period of time on my FBM turbo kit. 2-3 minutes of boost can cause coolant temperatures to start creeping past 107 C. Traffic requires the heater on when the ambient temps are above 90 F.

The FBM kit has a design flaw with the downpipe in my opinion. I think they've curved it in the way they did to give the MAF and cam sensor as much room as possible, but in doing so, it forces you to use slim fans without a shroud. This results in excessive temps in traffic.


@toekneehair , look on the bright side--mine caught on fire the first trip up the mountain. It looks like the mountain is 2 and 0 as I didn't make it up either.

You are discussing two different issues. If you are overheating at speed then it doesn't matter what fans you have whether OEM or slim. The cooling fans are only designed to keep the car cool while in low speed situations where there is no air flowing through the front of the radiator. If your car is overheating at speed even with all these additional cooling devices I would look to make sure it is properly bled. I know the solution for the race car that was running the Full Blown kit was to modify the cowel to vent the hot air towards the windshield.

I know this sounds stupid, but I would make sure your cooling system is properly bled and that the fans are pulling air and not pushing air.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by jamesm

my rev works kit uses one aftermarket fan and one stock fan. i don't have any issues in traffic, and the a/c always stays cold. i live in central florida, so it's usually pretty hot. i'm pretty sure having the one stock fan still there is what does it.

That probably does do it. I live in Florida, and I never had my car get dangerously hot while in stop and go traffic. I did have the A/C get warm as you have to remember that the A/C condensor is now stuck between the intercooler and radiator and those slim fans aren't shrouded so they really only pull air across the area of the radiator they are mounted to and will struggle to pull any air across the A/C condensor.

I think the best solution is some kind of shrouding as mentioned so that they can pull air across the entire area of the radiator.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by King Tut

You are discussing two different issues. If you are overheating at speed then it doesn't matter what fans you have whether OEM or slim. The cooling fans are only designed to keep the car cool while in low speed situations where there is no air flowing through the front of the radiator. If your car is overheating at speed even with all these additional cooling devices I would look to make sure it is properly bled. I know the solution for the race car that was running the Full Blown kit was to modify the cowel to vent the hot air towards the windshield.

I know this sounds stupid, but I would make sure your cooling system is properly bled and that the fans are pulling air and not pushing air.

A powerful fan will pull more air than can be pushed by going 130mph.

Remember that he's running the following stack:

FMIC
Oil cooler (soon?)
AC Condenser
Radiator

That's a lot of resistance. A high pressure (not high flow) fan will keep air moving.

Even fans are designed for different purposes. You can have a low torque (pressure) high CFM fan, or a high torque (presssure) low CFM fan. Depending on the situation, one may work better than the other.

In this case, we want to maximize pressure, because there's a lot of resistance.


This is how we solved the cooling issue on our S2k. It was overheating at WSIR (130+ mph observed), and we fixed it by adding the fan. The S2k's radiator design is top-down (unlike the right-left design of the FRS which is superior), and the fan placement isn't even ideal; it's on the "wrong" side, but it gets the job done.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

A powerful fan will pull more air than can be pushed by going 130mph.

Remember that he's running the following stack:

FMIC
Oil cooler (soon?)
AC Condenser
Radiator

I find that hard to believe. The oil cooler is on the car and is not mounted in the "stack" it is side mounted and has its own fresh air supply by the fog light hole. Having to utilize a cooling fan while at speed on the track sounds more like a bandaid for an improperly placed or speced radiator. I think the ultimate problem here at speed is too much hot air in the engine compartment and it doesn't matter what fan is on there or how much MPH of air is coming through it if it has no where to go.

[King Tut]

@Element Tuning has run an FA20Club front high mount turbo kit on their track car successfully. Let's see if they have anything to add as far as their cooling solution.

[toekneehair]

I took a ruler to the fans just to give you an idea. its about 3 inches and some change but they end up awfully close to the turbo on the right if you go that far. I don't know if it could take the heat.

I also added a photo of where the inter cooling piping sits on the radiator hose.