Combating the heat

[Lunatic]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Please don't do that. It's a high pressure zone, and you will *suck in* air through that gap, resulting in less air going through the radiator.

This is precisely why the AC air intake is located there, and why muscle cars have hood cowls for induction.

Good to know, thank you.

[AJPG]

Originally Posted by protpibe

Have you run it on a track?

DD and scarce track days (practice), locking forward to autocross.
At the time I could use the track ambient temp 95-100f, oil temp increase fast up to 215-220f, coolant +205f, intake +150f... And that's for 15-20 min. maybe it could be sustained (30-90min) but not proven.

[BadBRZ]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Please don't do that. It's a high pressure zone, and you will *suck in* air through that gap, resulting in less air going through the radiator.

This is precisely why the AC air intake is located there, and why muscle cars have hood cowls for induction.

Shhh let him tryi it

[Reaper]

pulling the weather stripping got me down a few degrees, pulling the entire cowl dropped more than 10 degrees but I never went over 80MPH when testing on the street. Either way Im testing this over the weekend. If im right ill post, if im wrong I will still post, and @CSG Mike ill tag you as the victor.

[Reaper]

I just cant believe no ones at least TRIED it. VCMC hacked it up similar to me and said it fixed their overheating problem when coupled with a fan shroud. We'll see, the hood does overhang over the vents and the high pressure zone
"should" be higher up on the windshield. Oh and for the record I don't have any overheating problems on the street, im just fidgety and curious.

[car_roll]

oil cooler in the engine bay? interesting.

[Reaper]

well I didn't like the idea of 200+F air moving into my intercooler, and the fender/fog light area isn't very efficient at expelling the air once its in there without hacking that up. A few of us have gone back and forth about whether this would suck air out, or turn into a high pressure zone at speed and try and force air in so I decided to stop talking and test it for myself. I believe the HP zone is high enough up the windshield for it to work.
This area of the engine bay is also a lot cooler than my other idea of putting it behind my radiator in front of the rad support, way too hot. I was measuring this area at 120F with just the weather stripping removed. I also really wanted to keep the oil cooler lines short and simple.
If this turns into a HP area and pushes air in, I could always force the air through the oil cooler and vent it in between the transmission and the tunnel. I already built a box incase that happens. TESTING!

[Reaper]

It works!
I ran a 15 inch piece of tape from the windshield at the bottom of the windshield wiper and into my 3 inch vent and down to the top of the intake manifold. Getting on the highway at 60-65mph it ripped it out of the vent and straight up and over the windshield. @CSG Mike

[mike the snake]

So what do you think would be the most effective, removing the rubber strip, cutting the plastic away, or adding the 3'' vents like you have in the pics?

[Reaper]

Removing the weather strip and the two small plastic pieces near the corners of the hood works and is reversible. Cutting into the plastic cowl means all that hot air goes straight towards your interior. Theres is a large plastic panel separate from the cowl that can be removed to see if this is something you want to do. It is behind/above the battery. It can be removed and resealed if your interior gets to bad. My catch can is there so my interior smelled like e85 all the time. If you look at my latest pictures I put 3 inch brake duct through the cowl. I can smell some e85/oil with my windows down similar to with them up and the piece behind the battery removed. So to me that means most of the air is making it through my vents and not "into" the cowl piece. Someone needs to make a new cowl. Someone good with cf or fiberglass.

[mike the snake]

Do you think a vented hood would cause the same smells inside the car?

I'm wanting to do anything I can to lower temps, but I don't want to be whiffing gas or oil all the time.

[Reaper]

Just vent your catch can under the car. Or use a recirculation one.

[mike the snake]

Originally Posted by Reaper

Just vent your catch can under the car. Or use a recirculation one.

Ahh, I see. I have a Crawford catch can that is VTA with a small filter, and I can smell the methanol sometimes after boosting, that must be coming from my catch can.

I'm going to run a hose from the catch can down to under the car as you suggested.

So, I think I'll try removing the rubber strip on the cowl and see how that goes.

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by Reaper

Removing the weather strip and the two small plastic pieces near the corners of the hood works and is reversible. Cutting into the plastic cowl means all that hot air goes straight towards your interior. Theres is a large plastic panel separate from the cowl that can be removed to see if this is something you want to do. It is behind/above the battery. It can be removed and resealed if your interior gets to bad. My catch can is there so my interior smelled like e85 all the time. If you look at my latest pictures I put 3 inch brake duct through the cowl. I can smell some e85/oil with my windows down similar to with them up and the piece behind the battery removed. So to me that means most of the air is making it through my vents and not "into" the cowl piece. Someone needs to make a new cowl. Someone good with cf or fiberglass.

Can you please point out these pieces to remove in a picture? I am at the track in 100+ deg ambient and I can't go 2 hot laps before having to cool down. I want to try this tomorrow (2 day event).