My review of QuantumBlue Custom Blended Oil

[bluesubie]

I think BRZY is onto something.
There is no such thing as "7.5w-27" in SAE J300. The first number represents cold cranking viscosity and is only tested for 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, and 25W. Period.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/coldcrank.htm

There is also no such thing as "27". There is 20, 30, 40, etc. and 16 is right around the corner.
http://www.tribology-abc.com/abc/viscosity.htm#SAE

Before dumping this unknown oil into a car, I would at least do a virgin oil analysis including TBN and viscosity at 40C. There are so many mistakes on their web site it's not even funny (actually it is very funny). Here's one for starters:

What they have embarked on is the reduction of SAPZ. This is Sulfated Ash, Phosphorous and Zinc.

This is wrong. It is called SAPS - Sulphated Ash Phosphorous and Sulfur (although sulfur is part of ZDDP).
http://www.lubrizol.com/EngineOilAdd.../LowerSAPS.pdf

Of course, they fail to mention that there are non-metallic organic additives being used due to the reduction of ZDDP. There is also an increase in multi-functional additives such as old and new forms of molybdenum and boron. Note that the BRZ/FR-S does not have flat tappet cams.

More reading:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=245760

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=641544


I anxiously await the uoa's.

-Dennis

[cjsporl1996]

I'm glad this forum is reopened thank you moderators. I received my blackstone oil test kit but it was crushed in the mail I'm waiting for another one to come in sorry for taking so long.

[bluesubie]

Are you doing a virgin oil analysis or only a uoa? Please get TBN as well.

Also, can you drive up to Central NJ so that I can witness the sampling procedure to make sure you don't cheat and add some Mobil1 to your sample? I also need to put a lock on the oil fill cap.

Thanks,
Dennis

[cjsporl1996]

I am doing a virgin oil analysis , UOA, and TBN because you asked. I'll even post a video of me sucking the oil out and sticking it into the bottle.

[Mikem53]

Originally Posted by cjsporl1996

Before all you critics out there have nothing but negative things to say about a product why not wait for the results. Only because someone can make a homemade candy bar at home you automatically assume it's worse than a Nestle bar you buy in the store. Wait for the results. Brain handles things on the consumer side. The business was originally government contracted and does a lot more business on the commercial side.

Seriously, what do you think you will gain by using this so-called magic oil concoction Over any other oil that meets the standard of Subaru and Toyota for this car? It's your time and money.. Have fun..

[Rayme]

This just voided the warrenty.

[cjsporl1996]

i received the Blackstone kit in the mail today i will be shipping it out tomorrow for analysis. Thank you for your patience.

[bluesubie]

Found a recent uoa on a Quantum Blue blend at bitog:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3210926/Quantum_Blue_/_5W-30/8,459_mi/#Post3210926

I'm really amazed at the levels of phosphorus in this oil. It's more than any racing oil that I've seen. This is much higher than MPT Thirty-K, Amsoil Dominator, Motul 300V, Red Line Street oil, Red Line Race oil, Mobil1 Racing Oil, etc.

Hopefully yours won't be that high, unless you don't have cats. Otherwise, you may have a dead kitty if you burn any oil.

-Dennis

[cjsporl1996]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Found a recent uoa on a Quantum Blue blend at bitog:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3210926/Quantum_Blue_/_5W-30/8,459_mi/#Post3210926

I'm really amazed at the levels of phosphorus in this oil. It's more than any racing oil that I've seen. This is much higher than MPT Thirty-K, Amsoil Dominator, Motul 300V, Red Line Street oil, Red Line Race oil, Mobil1 Racing Oil, etc.

Hopefully yours won't be that high, unless you don't have cats. Otherwise, you may have a dead kitty if you burn any oil.

-Dennis

I have only one cat at the moment. I'm impressed with that report too.

[mike the snake]

I'm running catless. Would the extra phosphorous in this oil be a good thing?

I know when I had air cooled Porsches the best oils had the most ZDDP because it helped with the higher pressures.

My car is getting a turbo kit and catless exhaust installed presently, planning on running Motul oils.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

I'm running catless. Would the extra phosphorous in this oil be a good thing?

I know when I had air cooled Porsches the best oils had the most ZDDP because it helped with the higher pressures.

My car is getting a turbo kit and catless exhaust installed presently, planning on running Motul oils.

Apparently, this company blends oil to a customer's specific needs so perhaps not all formulations would have this much phosphorus. Even so, I can't imagine that much phosphorus being a good thing. It's pretty much twice the amount of any pure race oil that's not intended for the street (Red Line Race, Mobil1 Racing, etc.). Too much of one ingredient doesn't make an oil better.

Mobil1 actually recommends their 0W-40 or 15W-50 for street cars that see track use and for applications that call for those viscosities. The 0W-40 has 1,000 ppm's of phosphorus and the 15W-50 has 1,200 ppm's. Motul 300V 0W-20 uses around 900-1000 and I believe that Red Line Street oil uses a bit more phosphorus at 1300-1400. Brad Penn uses around 1,300 as well. Motul and Red Line use a lot of molybdenum as well, which is a great friction modifier.

Although there hasn't been much of a uoa trend (these cars are still relatively new), there are some good random uoa's on this forum showing that the phosphorus levels in Red Line and Motul 300V 0W-20 appear to be fine for forced induction, tracked applications. Like I said above, maybe the phosphorus levels in the OP's blend will come in a bit lower than the bitog uoa.

-Dennis

[cjsporl1996]

Good news I'm sending the oil out today through ups. Bad news is my dad accidentally dropped the drain nut so I drained all my oil out and replaced it with Mobil 1 for now. I will post the results when they come in.

[mike the snake]

I know when I was racing Porsches, that Brad Penn and Swepco were very recomended because of the extra ZDDP and their formulas. This was for air cooled engines though, and these are Dino oils.

Our twins run on synthetic, and I'm changing the oils to Motul presently, but if there's a better oil brand to run I'd run that of course.

Has anyone ever heard of, or run Klotz oils?

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

Our twins run on synthetic, and I'm changing the oils to Motul presently, but if there's a better oil brand to run I'd run that of course.

Has anyone ever heard of, or run Klotz oils?

Even if you keep your car for 300,000 miles, I doubt you'll ever find the answer to which oil is better.

I would stick with Motul though. Even though they make non-API certified race/street oils, they also make oils that meet the most demanding specs, builder approvals, and certifications in the world (same goes for Mobil1 and many other brands. No offense to Quantum Blue ).

I can't really tell by the pic, but it looks like the Klotz has sort of a rip-off logo of the API starburst on the front of their bottle.

-Dennis