POWER Mods for NA setup

[fuddbutter]

Throttle controller is good, i like mine.
doesn't give you any more power, but it makes what you have instant.

also, try a bunch of laxatives a few hours prior to driving.. should drop a kg or two.

[1086]

Why n0 E85? I sugg3st s3lling d4t 3cut3k bruhhHHHh

[pche]

Originally Posted by campy

Why is the Agency Power header not a "real" header? I know nothing about it.

OP: Honestly this engine can't do much NA without e85. It would be a better use of your money to just go turbo/SC if you're aiming for anything over 200whp. Otherwise you're spending a lot of money for very small gains.

And don't go ripping out the interior and otherwise "adding lightness". Unless this will be a strict track car, you will come to hate it on the street. It's what happened to my old Porsche. The thing started to give me a headache every time I drove it because it was loud and uncomfortable. The BRZ isn't exactly a luxo-barge, but it's still perfectly comfy in stock form.

Seen dyno charts proving Agency Power headers yield no gain over stock manifolds. Besides they're low quality Chinese parts.

Don't ask me for the link, just remember seeing it a while back when I was shopping for headers.

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by juliog

Edit: AFAIK all the Seibon (wet) CF hoods are heavier than OEM.

Love it!! Add mass to go faster?

[NYCsubaruBRZ]

thanks 4 all of the responses!

so from what i have gathered by your posts is...

1. replace the agency headers with "real headers" (any brands you like?) ~$1000
2. light weight clutch / flywheel ~600
3. cf drive shaft ~900
4. lithium ion battery ~400
5. motor mounts ~150
6. tranny mount ~50
7. diff mount brace ~150
8. throttle controller ~300
9. big tb ~1800
~5,350 for like 10hp and minor weight reduction lol

yea the ac will stay in the car as well as the sound system carpet ect... not gonna change the gear ratio either. are we missing any other bolt-ons?

[NYCsubaruBRZ]

Originally Posted by juliog

More things you could add:

- 4.4/4.55/4.7 final gear (stock is 4.1). Increase of ~8/11/14% torque to the wheels.
- BBKs and coil overs (most are lighter than OEM).
- Lightweight clutch/flywheel.


Edit: AFAIK all the Seibon (wet) CF hoods are heavier than OEM.

ts style vented hood is 1.3 ounces lighter. not much but it is lighter

[juliog]

Is it? That's the one I wanted to replace my damaged OEM hood, unfortunately it was on backorder and had to go for the heavier DV .

[industrial]

Agency power headers were shown early on to make no power. They were the first header to be produced and it looked like they took an EJ header and hacked it up to fit the FA motor.

Almost any other header would be an improvement. The best headers to date that you can buy are the HKS equal length headers or JDL unequal length headers. The P&L and FA20 EL setups have also made good power. Nameless will probably end up being the best but they've been in development for a long time. Changing the headers alone will probably yield you more than every other mod you've done except the tune.

You don't need a carbon driveshaft. Look into aluminum, mine is awesome and $400.

You don't need to change your diff to get different ratios either, you could use a shorter tire when you upgrade from the stock crap.

You don't need any throttle stuff or mounts or braces.

Lighter weight parts make a huge difference but it gets expensive fast.

[pche]

Originally Posted by industrial

Agency power headers were shown early on to make no power. They were the first header to be produced and it looked like they took an EJ header and hacked it up to fit the FA motor.

Almost any other header would be an improvement. The best headers to date that you can buy are the HKS equal length headers or JDL unequal length headers. The P&L and FA20 EL setups have also made good power. Nameless will probably end up being the best but they've been in development for a long time. Changing the headers alone will probably yield you more than every other mod you've done except the tune.

You don't need a carbon driveshaft. Look into aluminum, mine is awesome and $400.

You don't need to change your diff to get different ratios either, you could use a shorter tire when you upgrade from the stock crap.

You don't need any throttle stuff or mounts or braces.

Lighter weight parts make a huge difference but it gets expensive fast.

Was the drive shaft a noticeable difference? I see the aluminum is only 1 lb more than the CF for less than half the price.

[industrial]

Originally Posted by pche

Was the drive shaft a noticeable difference? I see the aluminum is only 1 lb more than the CF for less than half the price.

There was a difference for sure. I'm sure the effect was compounded by the lightweight flywheel, pulleys and wheels. It's a good mod for $400. For $1000... I don't know.

[NYCsubaruBRZ]

Originally Posted by juliog

Is it? That's the one I wanted to replace my damaged OEM hood, unfortunately it was on backorder and had to go for the heavier DV .

but the dv is not much heavier only 3 ounces or so right? not enough weight to make a difference anyway. i really got it because the stock hood dents easily and carbon does not dent. also for looks and venting.

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by NYCsubaruBRZ

are we missing any other bolt-ons?

Ultra-Tow Marine Swivel Bolt-On Jack - 1000-Lb. Capacity

[diss7]

Guys rocking the US carbon drive shafts that weigh 12-13lbs, saying the 1lb saving is worth $500; when there is Japanense carbon driveshafts available that weigh under 10lbs.

Heh

[StormTrooper]

Alum drive shaft ~450
Shoria lithium batt ~260 or less
HKS/JDL EL headers maybe nameless when released ~1k