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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 11-11-2013, 05:08 PM   #43
Mikem53
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Originally Posted by JK21 View Post
Hi guys. I have done a few posts on here and I am looking for feedback.

until I buy me my GTR again hehehe

Sounds like you want a GTR or equivalent. Seems the best thing to do is keep saving for the GTR.
If you want a fast car, buy a fast car....
It's not only cheaper that way... It's more reliable and you get more of your money back when you're done with it.
There are some mods that will add to the experience without destroying the nature of the car.. Too many choices.. How much time and money you got? There's where your answer lies..
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:25 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by slicktop View Post
I'm seriously ignorant on the reasoning behind going 1J over 2J in all circumstances. Please let me know....
1JZ is a bargain. You can pick up a full motor set (ECU, transmission, motor etc) for a few hundred $$ more than an S13 SR. Generally around $2,500 for a good solid set. With a few bolt ons and a tune, you're making close to 400whp. You can go even further and switch to a larger single turbo and still get an easy 500hp on stock internals, provided the tune is done properly.

2JZ is a FANTASTIC motor but it's not a necessity. The amount it would cost you to get a full 1JZ swapped in and make 400hp would probably get a stock 2JZ in the car running properly. If you're not trying to get past that 500-600hp mark, where the 1JZ would need internal work, I don't see the point in spending the crazy amount extra for a 2JZ. The price of the 6spd TT trans alone is a pretty penny.

Both motors will throw the balance off of the car and the rest of the car will have to be built up in various ways to handle the extra power, torque, and weight of the new engine. New axles, diff, brakes etc etc. It comes down to what you would actually use the car for.

Depending on what you're using the car for:

Under 400hp, FA20
Over 400hp, 1JZ
Over 550hp, 2JZ

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Didn't realize there was this much hate on the JZ series engines. One of the most successful engines ever built if you ask me... yes it would kill the purpose of the car (low center of gravity) bla bla, still.. go hard or go home is why I am "for" 2jz I guess.
JZ motor is a kickass motor. Way better than the RB motors. People just think motor swap and instantly mention 2JZ or LS7 or something crazy without actually thinking about the fact that their are better options available that suit their goals better and at lower prices.
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:38 PM   #45
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:53 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by TylerLieberman View Post
1JZ is a bargain. You can pick up a full motor set (ECU, transmission, motor etc) for a few hundred $$ more than an S13 SR. Generally around $2,500 for a good solid set. With a few bolt ons and a tune, you're making close to 400whp. You can go even further and switch to a larger single turbo and still get an easy 500hp on stock internals, provided the tune is done properly.

2JZ is a FANTASTIC motor but it's not a necessity. The amount it would cost you to get a full 1JZ swapped in and make 400hp would probably get a stock 2JZ in the car running properly. If you're not trying to get past that 500-600hp mark, where the 1JZ would need internal work, I don't see the point in spending the crazy amount extra for a 2JZ. The price of the 6spd TT trans alone is a pretty penny.

Both motors will throw the balance off of the car and the rest of the car will have to be built up in various ways to handle the extra power, torque, and weight of the new engine. New axles, diff, brakes etc etc. It comes down to what you would actually use the car for.

Depending on what you're using the car for:

Under 400hp, FA20
Over 400hp, 1JZ
Over 550hp, 2JZ



JZ motor is a kickass motor. Way better than the RB motors. People just think motor swap and instantly mention 2JZ or LS7 or something crazy without actually thinking about the fact that their are better options available that suit their goals better and at lower prices.
2JZ is the superior motor, if you're going to swap, just do 2J. No point in swapping the inferior incarnation. For his goals, especially road racing, stick with the FA20.
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Old 11-11-2013, 06:11 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerLieberman View Post
1JZ is a bargain. You can pick up a full motor set (ECU, transmission, motor etc) for a few hundred $$ more than an S13 SR. Generally around $2,500 for a good solid set. With a few bolt ons and a tune, you're making close to 400whp. You can go even further and switch to a larger single turbo and still get an easy 500hp on stock internals, provided the tune is done properly.

2JZ is a FANTASTIC motor but it's not a necessity. The amount it would cost you to get a full 1JZ swapped in and make 400hp would probably get a stock 2JZ in the car running properly. If you're not trying to get past that 500-600hp mark, where the 1JZ would need internal work, I don't see the point in spending the crazy amount extra for a 2JZ. The price of the 6spd TT trans alone is a pretty penny.

Both motors will throw the balance off of the car and the rest of the car will have to be built up in various ways to handle the extra power, torque, and weight of the new engine. New axles, diff, brakes etc etc. It comes down to what you would actually use the car for.

Depending on what you're using the car for:

Under 400hp, FA20
Over 400hp, 1JZ
Over 550hp, 2JZ



JZ motor is a kickass motor. Way better than the RB motors. People just think motor swap and instantly mention 2JZ or LS7 or something crazy without actually thinking about the fact that their are better options available that suit their goals better and at lower prices.
If you are going to go through the trouble of installing a JZ motor in there with all the modifications required to fit the fucker in..i would definitely say go for a 2JZ. The extra .5l makes a huge difference to spool and torque. And yes I have owned both 1jz and 2jz so I know what I am talking about.

Personally I would swap a boxer motor if I went that way. or supercharge the fa20.
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Old 11-11-2013, 07:24 PM   #48
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I saw the thread title and... 2jizzitup... OK, I guess that's one way to explain how to blow your wad (of cash) on the twins.
I know, I have a problem...
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Old 11-11-2013, 07:48 PM   #49
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If you are going to go through the trouble of installing a JZ motor in there with all the modifications required to fit the fucker in..i would definitely say go for a 2JZ.
Why do anything halfway? S70/2 swap or bust

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Old 11-11-2013, 09:23 PM   #50
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the main thing that crawford did well was the torque increase over other turbo kits. Wondering how they got it so high.
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:42 PM   #51
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If you have access to E-85, I would go with Full-Blown. Especially if you plan on driving this in the street for rear world driving. I remember Crawford saying they had to drive their car at like 20% of it's potential on the streets or they would be in jail.
Yeah I have a E85 station right up the street from me and I have looked at Full Blown. They are really making me think b/c when I called them today they gave me some really good information on the block and the turbo kit they offer.

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Originally Posted by Whitigir View Post
If I was you, I would sell the FRS, and put the Modding money toward the GTR. I assume you paid off your FRS. Sell it now for the lowest of 15,000 together with 15,000 on your mod, you are in 30,000.

Now that 30,000 is very reasonably down payment for a GTR. Don't bother waiting for brand new GTR. If you can not afford it now, you will never be ( new ). Say a used GTR run 75k, you only loan 45k. That isn't bad.

Now if you was to mod your car with 15k. All went smoothly, and say nothing is wrong, you can always take a modded car with a grain of Salt. Reliability went down the drain. Two years from now, if you decide to sell it, you probably pull in 20k, if you are lucky. That is 10k out the windows. Assuming all thing go perfectly.

Now if you mod your FRS, and problems happen, your engine blown up on tuning, your turbo chip, and ruin everything, or whatever the hell else happen. You will lose your car, your mod parts, and probably not losing labor installations. Keep in mind that whenever you tune your car, any places will not be responsible if your engine blown. Even if most of the things went right, you still need to replace more things down the road. There are some where in the forum of a guy who lost 250k modding his GTR. Think

Your drive shaft, your suspensions, your transmission, your linkages...etc. Most of the manufactured vehicles were produced in the cheapest way possible at the minimum reliability of a brand. Therefore most of your drive train components are most likely to not be able to take in too much more power.

Assuming you own a shop, and you do everything for free labor, cheaper parts. Sure, go ahead, that boosts your shop reputation up, bring you more business, and more sponsors.

So, unless you own a shop, or race your car for money, then sure, do it. If not, why ? Especially when you want a GTR.

How do I know ? Why am I saying this ? I had been there, done that, and the reason why was because my stock turbos seal went bad. I mildly modded it, but one thing lead to another, and in my case, 85% of things went smoothly! the last 15% was taken care of by a reputable shop. At the end, what did I lose ?

1/ too much power = pointless on the street
2/ things need replaces down the road, and most of the shops don't work on it, he'll lot of annoying to go to my fav shop
3/ resell value was shitty, I was lucky to re-scoop some back.
4/ I lost the car original value, and rescoop 90% of modding parts plus labor back. I was lucky

What I learn ?

1/ don't mod, if you don't race
2/ if you race, any activities, buy a used car to mods, you don't need most of the stock parts
3/ be prepare to lose a lot of money
4/ it is a non profit and a lose lose situation

Why even race or any activity beside cafe meets and talk ? To most of the people you are more likely not to see again, or only on the forum ? You will just waste your time, and money.

Beside, a guy in my platform wasted 55k because his modded engine blown twice, and when it happens, those people point fingers to each other faces....you can't do sht

However, do whatever you want, it is your money and car. I would prefer to buy my kids diapers, and food. If I had the chance, I would kick myself in the ass before I consider modding it.
That is a valid point. And you are right in the fact that my car is paid off. I was still planning to mod the FRS regardless but since I know I am getting the GTR for sure I want this car to be my new DD. I think I could make due with this car anywhere from the 400-550 range.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikem53 View Post
Sounds like you want a GTR or equivalent. Seems the best thing to do is keep saving for the GTR.
If you want a fast car, buy a fast car....
It's not only cheaper that way... It's more reliable and you get more of your money back when you're done with it.
There are some mods that will add to the experience without destroying the nature of the car.. Too many choices.. How much time and money you got? There's where your answer lies..
I honestly feel that this car in 400-550 range would be perfect for all around driving. That is where I am trying to be at. When I talked to the people at Full Blown they told me that I can make high 400s easy since I am looking at their Built shortblock and premium turbo kit and the motor is actually good up to 700s I believe but nobody has pushed it that far yet. Currently working for 600s I believe.
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:57 PM   #52
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Jk21. This car light weight together with a lot of torque and hp with RWD. You are looking at an uncontrollable beast in the track, let alone a daily drive in real life.

The perfect DD would be a GTR still
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:00 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by JK21 View Post
That is a valid point. And you are right in the fact that my car is paid off. I was still planning to mod the FRS regardless but since I know I am getting the GTR for sure I want this car to be my new DD. I think I could make due with this car anywhere from the 400-550 range.

I would tend to think a GT-R would be a lot more DDable than a 500whp BRZ...
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:04 AM   #54
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did I miss...

Did I miss the mention of an LS3? If I were to replace the engine, it would be with that carb legal LS3. 500 legal HP.
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:35 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by Whitigir View Post
Jk21. This car light weight together with a lot of torque and hp with RWD. You are looking at an uncontrollable beast in the track, let alone a daily drive in real life.

The perfect DD would be a GTR still
True....it is a good car to DD. When I had my last one I drove that more than my actual DD (an 08 civic EX) just because it was so damn fun. And when it comes down to it my GTR is going to be fully built as well and the goal on that one is mid 900s to the wheels at least.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisl View Post
I would tend to think a GT-R would be a lot more DDable than a 500whp BRZ...
If were to keep the power in the GTR down to stock and up to mid 700s yeah but I already know I wont do that
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:39 AM   #56
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F20C with Rotrex Supercharger. Make 400hp on pump gas.
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