CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

RCE or HVT plates should do the trick as well. A good quality plate is a little more expensive, but will last longer they'll have a high quality spherical bearing.

- Andy

[Teo]

Since I now shifted to better tires, I run Neova Ad08r 215-45-17 I want to have a good setup for trackday use.

I have Tein Street flex

Can you please suggest me camber and toe, and most important (for me), can you please suggest me ride height? that won't kill me on speedbumps

Thanks

[gramicci101]

Also, some plates will raise or lower the car, so you should watch out for that when you're shopping.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

RCE or HVT plates should do the trick as well. A good quality plate is a little more expensive, but will last longer they'll have a high quality spherical bearing.

- Andy

Will the RCE or HVT plates work with stock struts and stock diameter springs? From what I've seen, most only work with coilovers

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Teo

Since I now shifted to better tires, I run Neova Ad08r 215-45-17 I want to have a good setup for trackday use.

I have Tein Street flex

Can you please suggest me camber and toe, and most important (for me), can you please suggest me ride height? that won't kill me on speedbumps

Thanks

Within ~1" of stock is good, definitely no lower than 1.5" unless you plan to add more parts to correct the roll centers.

[GTHachiRoku]

@RacecompEngineering @CSGMike

I'm planning on getting LCAs but for the time being setup like this on Tein coilovers and 17x9 wheels on 245/40 RE11A tires.

I'll have to measure when I get home, but the drop is somewhere in the 1-1.5" range I think.

Do you think this will be OK for at least a couple track days? Any recommendations?

[fz6r]

Originally Posted by Malt

You'll need something to get your camber and toe back to reasonable levels with a 1"+ drop. Bushings are not necessary but obviously have the upsides and downsides. Be prepared to spend $$$ if those bushings need to be pressed in and out if you don't have a means to do it yourself.

So the set up I'm looking at is Koni Yellows with Mann Engineering lowering springs and SPC rear lower control arms. Do you think this will be a good set up? I'm running Enkei Kojin wheels 17x9 ET 42 up front and 45 in the rear with a 245/40-17 tire.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Will the RCE or HVT plates work with stock struts and stock diameter springs? From what I've seen, most only work with coilovers

Those 2 will work.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by GTHachiRoku

@RacecompEngineering @CSGMike

I'm planning on getting LCAs but for the time being setup like this on Tein coilovers and 17x9 wheels on 245/40 RE11A tires.

I'll have to measure when I get home, but the drop is somewhere in the 1-1.5" range I think.

Do you think this will be OK for at least a couple track days? Any recommendations?

That's a bit more toe than I'd like. I generally like zero in front and a tiny bit of rear toe in. Rear is driver preference IMO....some like a more loose car and will run a little toe out.

More negative camber up front would be ideal for the track. And slightly less in the rear, but it would be good to know your spring rates.

- Andy

[Malt]

Originally Posted by fz6r

So the set up I'm looking at is Koni Yellows with Mann Engineering lowering springs and SPC rear lower control arms. Do you think this will be a good set up? I'm running Enkei Kojin wheels 17x9 ET 42 up front and 45 in the rear with a 245/40-17 tire.

I can't comment on the wheels as I'm running stock rims and have no idea about their fitment. I can only assume you arrived that those offsets due to research on these forums.

As for the rear LCA's, I plan on using those exact arms if I can't get my camber fixed with my rear camber bolts and replacing the toe arms. If you don't mind spending another $200 that may or may not be necessary, I'd recommend getting the SPC toe arms as well. They are much easier to adjust, have a much larger range than the factory solution, and if you get everything installed and go to get an alignment and they can't get your camber dialed in due to toe issues (like I'm facing right now), that means you'll have to buy them anyway and pay for a second alignment. They are "cheap enough" to where I wouldn't want to risk it knowing what I know now.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Those 2 will work.

- Andy

Great, thanks Andy!

Any thoughts on slotting the stock struts and running the offest bolts still? I know the TII's come slotted stock (wish I had the budget for those this year, but it was those and no events or springs and money for events ), but typically they would be run with the stock upper bolt.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Teo

Since I now shifted to better tires, I run Neova Ad08r 215-45-17 I want to have a good setup for trackday use.

I have Tein Street flex

Can you please suggest me camber and toe, and most important (for me), can you please suggest me ride height? that won't kill me on speedbumps

Thanks

-3 front camber, -2 rear. 0 toe front. Rear toe depends on driver. A little bit of toe in is good for stability, a little bit of toe out if you want more oversteer. This is a good start...you may like a little more camber.

30mm to 40mm ride height is good.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by fz6r

So the set up I'm looking at is Koni Yellows with Mann Engineering lowering springs and SPC rear lower control arms. Do you think this will be a good set up? I'm running Enkei Kojin wheels 17x9 ET 42 up front and 45 in the rear with a 245/40-17 tire.

Need to know the spring rates and drop.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Great, thanks Andy!

Any thoughts on slotting the stock struts and running the offest bolts still? I know the TII's come slotted stock (wish I had the budget for those this year, but it was those and no events or springs and money for events ), but typically they would be run with the stock upper bolt.

Done right it has some advantages. I'm just always worried about it not being done correctly.

You would probably use the OEM bolt if you did it.

- Andy