CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Zenith/Nadir]

Malt
We met at the shop getting alignments about the same time, and I have gone the same route as far as rear adjustment. I also want a little more eat camber adjustment, though my desired numbers are different. I am installing rear subframe solid bushings that are 20mms risers as well. Depending on the exact amount of adjustment, and car itself, I think you might be able to get what you're looking for that way. Depending on the intended use of the car, because going that route will effect how the car is classed. What were your before numbers on the alignment (post lowering, pre alignment)? What class are you planning to run, or do you not plan on tracking ?

[Malt]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

K. Not knowing much about using bolts to adjust camber in the rear and how much adjustment they have, I'd just be worried about you buying toe arms and then finding out that your camber bolts are maxed out anyway. Can you peek under and see if there is much adjustment in the bolts left?

- Andy

The side that is out is the right side (its sitting at -2.3) and the dot is completely towards the middle of the car. Dot indicates the lobe? Which means its pushed out as far as possible getting the max negative camber? If that's the case then surely I can get 0.3 positive camber to even things out with the bolts.

Originally Posted by Zenith/Nadir

Malt
We met at the shop getting alignments about the same time, and I have gone the same route as far as rear adjustment. I also want a little more eat camber adjustment, though my desired numbers are different. I am installing rear subframe solid bushings that are 20mms risers as well. Depending on the exact amount of adjustment, and car itself, I think you might be able to get what you're looking for that way. Depending on the intended use of the car, because going that route will effect how the car is classed. What were your before numbers on the alignment (post lowering, pre alignment)? What class are you planning to run, or do you not plan on tracking ?

After corner balancing I was at -1.8 on the left and -2.5 on the right with 0 toe. That's why I got the bolts installed because that's to far out for my liking. Once I got the bolts installed the starting point was -1.9 on the left and -2.4 on the right which they were able to get to -2 and -2.3 before running into toe issues.

I'd like -2 all around with some toe in on the rear. It looks like toe arms just may solve the issue. As for class concerns, no plans on autocross at this time (or probably ever for this car), but definite plans for several HPDE's a year. I had hoped to get out to VIR in April but my upcoming trip to California put a nix on that one.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

So did my homework... Perrin adjustable 16mm rear bar or your rear bar? I can't find anyone that sells your rear bar separately.

Hmmm...we almost always sell ours as a set...let me see something.

- Andy

[Zenith/Nadir]

Originally Posted by Malt

After corner balancing I was at -1.8 on the left and -2.5 on the right with 0 toe. That's why I got the bolts installed because that's to far out for my liking. Once I got the bolts installed the starting point was -1.9 on the left and -2.4 on the right which they were able to get to -2 and -2.3 before running into toe issues.

I'd like -2 all around with some toe in on the rear. It looks like toe arms just may solve the issue. As for class concerns, no plans on autocross at this time (or probably ever for this car), but definite plans for several HPDE's a year. I had hoped to get out to VIR in April but my upcoming trip to California put a nix on that one.

I suspect that you are somewhere in the neighborhood of 20mm in drop based on those numbers. I'm just guessing here, but I don't think you'll end up with as much camber as you're looking for going with subframe risers. I still think it'd a great mod, and not an expensive one, but I think you'll end up closer to -1° of camber than to -2°. Just my educated guess, sorry I couldn't be of more help. I'll let you know how it pans out for me if you'd like.

[mothespaceman]

I have a quick question, hopefully you guys can help!

I just ordered a set of FA 500's and I am looking into doing a basic suspension bushing upgrade as now, with stiffer coilovers, I imagine much of the force will xfer over to the next weakest link.

This car is mainly a DD, sees quite a few mountain roads, a few track days and I'm not afraid of the stiff.

What would be a few things that you would recommend to upgrade in the suspension bushing department that isn't overkill, but would be sort of, 'necessary' or 'should haves'.

This car will also be running 245's on all four corners with fairly sticky street tires.

Thanks in advance!

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Hmmm...we almost always sell ours as a set...let me see something.

- Andy

So... see anything? LMAO!

[fz6r]

My question, what are the negatives of dropping your car with lowering springs and not using lower control arms? How long do you think the stock shocks would last with a spring that drops ~30-35mm? Are bushings a definite necessary mod when lowering the car?

[Malt]

Originally Posted by mothespaceman

I have a quick question, hopefully you guys can help!

I just ordered a set of FA 500's and I am looking into doing a basic suspension bushing upgrade as now, with stiffer coilovers, I imagine much of the force will xfer over to the next weakest link.

This car is mainly a DD, sees quite a few mountain roads, a few track days and I'm not afraid of the stiff.

What would be a few things that you would recommend to upgrade in the suspension bushing department that isn't overkill, but would be sort of, 'necessary' or 'should haves'.

This car will also be running 245's on all four corners with fairly sticky street tires.

Thanks in advance!

Just FYI, Stiff does not equal better. That being said, whiteline has a nice assortment of bushing you can replace. If your going to replace lots of bushings on this car that require pressing out, I'd suggest getting a press or something to do it yourself because labor starts adding up quickly for stuff like this. Racecomp engineering sells most (if not all) of these bushings so I suggest heading over there and taking a look at what they have. http://www.racecompengineering.com/i....html?limit=30

Originally Posted by fz6r

My question, what are the negatives of dropping your car with lowering springs and not using lower control arms? How long do you think the stock shocks would last with a spring that drops ~30-35mm? Are bushings a definite necessary mod when lowering the car?

You'll need something to get your camber and toe back to reasonable levels with a 1"+ drop. Bushings are not necessary but obviously have the upsides and downsides. Be prepared to spend $$$ if those bushings need to be pressed in and out if you don't have a means to do it yourself.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

So... see anything? LMAO!

Looks like we're only selling them as a pair at the moment with the front bar. I thought we had an "extra" rear but no luck.

Go with Whiteline or Perrin.

- Andy

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Looks like we're only selling them as a pair at the moment with the front bar. I thought we had an "extra" rear but no luck.

Go with Whiteline or Perrin.

- Andy

[robot]

Just to verify...the bushings on the left (diff mount) go on top of the stock bushings (as in, they dont replace them but lock them down)?

[gramicci101]

Correct. They basically fill the voids in the OEM bushings with polyurethane to minimize flex. Whiteline also makes replacement bushings (KDT924), but those are more expensive and would require you to drop the diff cradle and press them in.

[wparsons]

Any opinions on the best way to get more negative camber up front on stock struts? I already have whiteline bolts in the top holes maxed out, but I still need some more. I haven't had it properly aligned yet, but the wear onto the shoulders is pretty even left/right, and it wasn't pushing excessively. I was running 38psi cold on a cool day, didn't check temps after a run at all though.

I know I can slot the upper holes, run whiteline bolts in the bottom hole as well, etc. How well do those hold settings compared to camber plates? Any concerns with the offset bolts and slotted upper holes?

I'm trying to avoid camber plates because I drive a lot (60k km's on the car in less than two years) and don't want to be replacing bearings too often, but if there are plates that will survive Canadian winters and last more than a year with how much I drive then I'll gladly consider them too.

[Malt]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Any opinions on the best way to get more negative camber up front on stock struts? I already have whiteline bolts in the top holes maxed out, but I still need some more. I haven't had it properly aligned yet, but the wear onto the shoulders is pretty even left/right, and it wasn't pushing excessively. I was running 38psi cold on a cool day, didn't check temps after a run at all though.

I know I can slot the upper holes, run whiteline bolts in the bottom hole as well, etc. How well do those hold settings compared to camber plates? Any concerns with the offset bolts and slotted upper holes?

I'm trying to avoid camber plates because I drive a lot (60k km's on the car in less than two years) and don't want to be replacing bearings too often, but if there are plates that will survive Canadian winters and last more than a year with how much I drive then I'll gladly consider them too.

Raceseng Cascam plates might fit your need but they are pricey (worth it for a far superior product imo). I vaguely remember something about clearance issues with the stock springs when using camber plates and bolts.