CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by BRZZZZZZZZZZ

Lots of fun, but the rear is pretty snappy with the sway bar set to stiff so I brought it back down to soft. I will try to reduce the toe to 0 in the rear. Really need wider tires to take advantage of the suspension now but I don't want to go up to 17" wheels.

Sounds good. Rear toe adjustment can help with the snappiness.

- Andy

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Yes, the Yellows are happier with front AND rear swaybars while stock benefits a great deal with just the front bar. That's by design....we wanted the springs to be good with stock swaybars (rather than really need a front bar or stiffer front rates like every other spring). When adding bars then you need to do both.

Did you get the replacement bumpstops with your used Yellows?

16mm is the common size for a rear bar for this car. Get an adjustable and find a setting you like (probably stiff). Whiteline is good. They do make an 18mm rear but it's pretty big...

- Andy

Got the bumpstops. Haven't had any issues with travel, they ride great and eat up bumps.

I usually go for smaller swaybars than most. I found the WRX 20mm bar was the best swaybar for my GC so 16mm will probably do fine especially if its adjustable.

I was looking at those bilsteins.... almost a grand for shocks... I hope we get a nice OEM USDM upgrade we can pick from soon.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

Got the bumpstops. Haven't had any issues with travel, they ride great and eat up bumps.

I usually go for smaller swaybars than most. I found the WRX 20mm bar was the best swaybar for my GC so 16mm will probably do fine especially if its adjustable.

I was looking at those bilsteins.... almost a grand for shocks... I hope we get a nice OEM USDM upgrade we can pick from soon.

Cool, good to hear. Yeah go with the 16mm rear and play with the adjustments.

Hopefully there will be some new shock options eventually.

- Andy

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by BRZZZZZZZZZZ

Really need wider tires to take advantage of the suspension now but I don't want to go up to 17" wheels.

I found RE-11's in 245/45-16, but the magic google box says they really prefer 8" wheels. Their minimum suggested wheel width is 7.5". Beyond that, anything over 225 I was only finding in a 17 or higher.

Edit: also Nexen N3000, Falken FK451, and Yokohama AVS ES100 in 245/45-16, but those are all UHP, not EHP.

[BRZZZZZZZZZZ]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

I found RE-11's in 245/45-16, but the magic google box says they really prefer 8" wheels. Their minimum suggested wheel width is 7.5". Beyond that, anything over 225 I was only finding in a 17 or higher.

Edit: also Nexen N3000, Falken FK451, and Yokohama AVS ES100 in 245/45-16, but those are all UHP, not EHP.

I don't really think I am going to get anything wider than a 225 on a 7" wheel, the sidewalls are already pretty bulgy, and a 245 may even reduce performance if the rim is too narrow.

[Kostamojen]

This car doesn't NEED anything over 225 anyway...

*runs for cover*

[toysub]

Hi all,
Read through 60 pages of this great thread. Thanks for all the great info.

I don't recall seeing too much info on rear lower control arms... what makes a good design and if there are any features that are specific to various uses. So many brands out there that look slightly different, but similar. Also curious if certain construction material, steel vs aluminum, is significant.

I'm installing ST coilovers for my 235/40-18s for my daily driver (no track use), but want to keep at minimum the great handling aspects of our twins. Not sure how low the drop will be, depending on the clearance I need for some driveway entries, so I may need some camber adjustments and want to keep a balanced alignment to avoid unnecessary tire wear if possible.

Thanks in advance for any helpful comments.

[Malt]

I'm finally getting around to doing something about my rear suspension and alignment issues. A couple months ago I got eccentric bolts installed in the rear LCA's instead of buying an adjustable LCA. They got the camber closer to what I wanted but were unable to get it all the way because they ran out of toe adjustment.

Currently the rear is at -2 camber of the left and -2.3 on the right with 0 toe on both sides. I'd like to get a little toe in as well as get the camber evened out at -2 on both sides, which is where my question comes in.

I think there is room for more adjustment on camber with these bolts if I could get some more toe adjustment. Would replacing the toe arms with something like SPC's adjustable toe arms finally allow me to solve the issue or should I just bite the bullet and get adjustable LCA's as well? I'd rather not get the LCA's if they are not necessary. Are the SPC's adequate toe arms or would SPL's or something of that nature be more suitable for a mostly street driven/couple track days a year BRZ? Thanks for any input.

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

16mm is the common size for a rear bar for this car. Get an adjustable and find a setting you like (probably stiff). Whiteline is good. They do make an 18mm rear but it's pretty big...

- Andy

So did my homework... Perrin adjustable 16mm rear bar or your rear bar? I can't find anyone that sells your rear bar separately.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Malt

I'm finally getting around to doing something about my rear suspension and alignment issues. A couple months ago I got eccentric bolts installed in the rear LCA's instead of buying an adjustable LCA. They got the camber closer to what I wanted but were unable to get it all the way because they ran out of toe adjustment.

Currently the rear is at -2 camber of the left and -2.3 on the right with 0 toe on both sides. I'd like to get a little toe in as well as get the camber evened out at -2 on both sides, which is where my question comes in.

I think there is room for more adjustment on camber with these bolts if I could get some more toe adjustment. Would replacing the toe arms with something like SPC's adjustable toe arms finally allow me to solve the issue or should I just bite the bullet and get adjustable LCA's as well? I'd rather not get the LCA's if they are not necessary. Are the SPC's adequate toe arms or would SPL's or something of that nature be more suitable for a mostly street driven/couple track days a year BRZ? Thanks for any input.

You could try these. http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...258&ModelID=36

Sent from my samstone

[Malt]

Originally Posted by Calum

You could try these. http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...258&ModelID=36

Sent from my samstone

After getting quoted ~$600 to install the whiteline upper camber bushings I've been shying away from press in bushings. I can install toe arms myself and after factoring install costs on bushings, usually end up cheaper just replacing the whole part. I wish people would make this info more known. But thank you for your help.

Sent from my SCH-R970C using Tapatalk

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Malt

I'm finally getting around to doing something about my rear suspension and alignment issues. A couple months ago I got eccentric bolts installed in the rear LCA's instead of buying an adjustable LCA. They got the camber closer to what I wanted but were unable to get it all the way because they ran out of toe adjustment.

Currently the rear is at -2 camber of the left and -2.3 on the right with 0 toe on both sides. I'd like to get a little toe in as well as get the camber evened out at -2 on both sides, which is where my question comes in.

I think there is room for more adjustment on camber with these bolts if I could get some more toe adjustment. Would replacing the toe arms with something like SPC's adjustable toe arms finally allow me to solve the issue or should I just bite the bullet and get adjustable LCA's as well? I'd rather not get the LCA's if they are not necessary. Are the SPC's adequate toe arms or would SPL's or something of that nature be more suitable for a mostly street driven/couple track days a year BRZ? Thanks for any input.

Are you absolutely sure you could get the camber you need with the bolts and a toe arm? How low are you? I have no clue how much adjustment they can get you.

- Andy

[Malt]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Are you absolutely sure you could get the camber you need with the bolts and a toe arm? How low are you? I have no clue how much adjustment they can get you.

- Andy

I'm not sure how low I am since I can't get an answer from anyone what the stock ride height is and where the measured it from. One side is sitting at -2 which if where I want to be. Granted that's with 0 toe in the rear and I'd like some toe in. The shop just said they couldn't get it any closer because they were fighting with the toe.

[Racecomp Engineering]

K. Not knowing much about using bolts to adjust camber in the rear and how much adjustment they have, I'd just be worried about you buying toe arms and then finding out that your camber bolts are maxed out anyway. Can you peek under and see if there is much adjustment in the bolts left?

- Andy