CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[FRS-HHH]

about to order the bilstein b14s coilovers do you recommend upgrading to Whiteline camber bolts and camber adjustable rear bushings ?? if yes why and if no why? kinda new to the whole suspension thing thanks

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by FastWhite

I am running stock wheels and 225/45/17 rivals.
Budget is open al the up to the Ohlins. Checked on JRZ's the other day, and ya I'll put them off until I win the lottery. Lol
I consider the MCS just for the fact that I would be able to stay in street classes.
But for the price point and what you get, Ohlins are point or two ahead.
I'm just going to HAVE to find people with various set ups, try them( passenger seat) and pay for lunch.
Trying, sorta, to avoid being bitten by the bug. Sorta. Lol


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We really need to have a meet with a bunch of suspension systems to ride on. Maybe this spring!

- Andy

[FastWhite]

I WILL be there.


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[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by FRS-HHH

about to order the bilstein b14s coilovers do you recommend upgrading to Whiteline camber bolts and camber adjustable rear bushings ?? if yes why and if no why? kinda new to the whole suspension thing thanks

How much camber do you want? The bolts from the dealer may be fine.

For the rear most people go with a set of LCAs instead of the camber bushings. I like the bushings but they are a pain to install and adjust.

- Andy

[Stevo22]

What is the typical lifespan and how do you tell when a rebuild is needed for a coilover(e.g. is just based on feel or is their a recommended mileage)? I assume this varies with street vs. track mileage? I also assume this varies between the quality of the product, so you can keep it your wheel house Tarmacs for @Racecomp Engineering and SRCs for @CSG Mike and expand if you have experience with other brands. Additionally, does a twin tube or monotube typically last longer?

[solidONE]

What are you guy's thoughts on increasing roll stiffness via sway bar on our Mac strut front suspension? I understand going to stiff will cause too much understeer and a lot more likely to push under trail braking. But, with just enough it should maintain better contact between tire and road under cornering speeds by virtue of decreasing body roll, thus camber loss when mashing it though turns.

Thoughts? Better yet, data?

Every macstrut equipped car I've driven, read about, heard about have had marked increase in cornering speed including the much touted cayman s. If sway bars are only good for 'adjusting balance' then why do these supposedly near perfect balance of an out of the box cayman benefit so greatly from a stiffened sway bar? Riddle me that?

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Oh yeah, this!

I swore we posted our shock dynos a long time ago in our own thread here, but it turns out we never did.

This is T2s on soft, 9 clicks comp and rebound, and hard with T0 in there as well.

- Andy

The green and black lines are the T0's?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by solidONE

The green and black lines are the T0's?

Yes, greenish black lines are T0 (NA for non-adjustable).

- andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by solidONE

What are you guy's thoughts on increasing roll stiffness via sway bar on our Mac strut front suspension? I understand going to stiff will cause too much understeer and a lot more likely to push under trail braking. But, with just enough it should maintain better contact between tire and road under cornering speeds by virtue of decreasing body roll, thus camber loss when mashing it though turns.

Thoughts? Better yet, data?

Every macstrut equipped car I've driven, read about, heard about have had marked increase in cornering speed including the much touted cayman s. If sway bars are only good for 'adjusting balance' then why do these supposedly near perfect balance of an out of the box cayman benefit so greatly from a stiffened sway bar? Riddle me that?

Because swaybars do more than just adjust balance.

IMO sways are a simple device that is often misunderstood in this world.

I commonly see people say that larger swaybars just remove grip to adjust balance and that's simply not true.

It's an easy and cheap way to reduce roll AND adjust balance.

There are advantages and disadvantages of the big swaybar and soft springs approach vs. the small swaybar and stiff spring approach. I've written a little about them somewhere here I think. I gotta run, but I'll see if I can dig some of it up later.

Also, I'm not saying "32mm SWAYBARS FOR ALL!!!"

Swaybars are simply one piece of the puzzle to choose carefully to fit into your system. Design for a goal and build the system accordingly.

- Andy

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Ohlins are just amazing shocks. I think Myles in the office finally felt like our car was about perfect when we put a custom sprung version on our car. Yes it's only a 1 way but it is so damn good. Put them on, dial them in, and enjoy on the road and track as the name suggests.
- Andy

What spring rate would you recommend for the Ohlins on a more track oriented car that will be running stickier tires (Hoosier R6)?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Stevo22

What is the typical lifespan and how do you tell when a rebuild is needed for a coilover(e.g. is just based on feel or is their a recommended mileage)? I assume this varies with street vs. track mileage? I also assume this varies between the quality of the product, so you can keep it your wheel house Tarmacs for @Racecomp Engineering and SRCs for @CSG Mike and expand if you have experience with other brands. Additionally, does a twin tube or monotube typically last longer?

SRCs are recommended for inspection at 30k mile intervals. You shouldn't need a rebuild for a long, long time, unless you're doing something really... egregious with them.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ja1217

What spring rate would you recommend for the Ohlins on a more track oriented car that will be running stickier tires (Hoosier R6)?

The R&T is still a 1 way damper; you don't really get much compression damping change, so you shouldn't deviate too much from the springs that come with them. You need a 2 way damper to really have the ability to swap springs to your liking.

What are the track surfaces like where you run? That's what will really determine how stiff you can go.

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The R&T is still a 1 way damper; you don't really get much compression damping change, so you shouldn't deviate too much from the springs that come with them. You need a 2 way damper to really have the ability to swap springs to your liking.

What are the track surfaces like where you run? That's what will really determine how stiff you can go.

Main tracks I will be going to are VIR and Summit Point which are pretty smooth other than curb hopping in places. Definitely no where near as rough as buttonwillow.

[Superstar]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

SRCs are recommended for inspection at 30k mile intervals. You shouldn't need a rebuild for a long, long time, unless you're doing something really... egregious with them.

Are the custom valved CSG spec'd SRCs still in development?