CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by fooddude

Are there any shock dynos of your T0s vs T2s...

and also dynos of Monoflexes, SRCs, Ohlins R&Ts?

And dynos of the cheaper setups: B8 (once someone has them) vs T0s vs B14s?

This is from a few iterations ago... (CSG spec Tein SRC prototypes)

[Wepeel]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

With the proper set-up, IMO it makes the car very easy to drive fast with the ability to get on the throttle with confidence.

It's especially good for auto-x...the extra front spring rate helps with quick transitions while keeping the rear end "tamed." These cars do not need much help rotating.

I think you could go with 9k/9k. It will be firm on the street but very DD friendly. Excellent for auto-x.

- Andy

What are the spring lengths for the T2's and V3's? Do they both take standard 60mm dia coilover springs? And does KW wind their own or are they eibachs/hypercos/...?

[FastWhite]

I won't be able to do the Tein EDFC's as it would put me in to high of a autocross class.
I have researched the JRZ, Ohlins, T2,s and MCS. MCS has a kit that makes them CS legal. I have had T2 on my STI, but found a little hard for DD, but great for auto cross. Then I have the post by RCE on the JRZ & Ohlins.
The only one without a lot of feedback are MCS. Great dampener doesn't cut it.
Thank you for the info. RCE loved the JRZ, but you get a better warranty and dust boots with the Ohlins.
Front runner is the Ohlins and a move to STX. Was hoping to stay CS, but it will more fun.



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[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by FastWhite

I won't be able to do the Tein EDFC's as it would put me in to high of a autocross class.
I have researched the JRZ, Ohlins, T2,s and MCS. MCS has a kit that makes them CS legal. I have had T2 on my STI, but found a little hard for DD, but great for auto cross. Then I have the post by RCE on the JRZ & Ohlins.
The only one without a lot of feedback are MCS. Great dampener doesn't cut it.
Thank you for the info. RCE loved the JRZ, but you get a better warranty and dust boots with the Ohlins.
Front runner is the Ohlins and a move to STX. Was hoping to stay CS, but it will more fun.



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Are you considering the Ohlins R&T? I don't believe there's an ohlins application beyond the entry level R&T, unless I'm outdated by a few months of info...

What are the damper configuration restrictions that you have to stay within for STX?

[FastWhite]

If the did not come from the factory with an EDFC setup then you will be bumped up to SM I think, will need to check that, I may be in error.
I was hoping to stay in CS for this year. Let part development catch up some more.
The T2's I had on my STI were to stiff. Wether from my inexperience or what not in my setup.
So now the new search.
The Ohlins and Jrz'$ are top picks. I am just trying to gather more info on MCS. Not much out there on those.
RCE's review on the JRZ's has me chomping at the bit in just wanting to pull the trigger on them



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[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by FastWhite

If the did not come from the factory with an EDFC setup then you will be bumped up to SM I think, will need to check that, I may be in error.
I was hoping to stay in CS for this year. Let part development catch up some more.
The T2's I had on my STI were to stiff. Wether from my inexperience or what not in my setup.
So now the new search.
The Ohlins and Jrz'$ are top picks. I am just trying to gather more info on MCS. Not much out there on those.
RCE's review on the JRZ's has me chomping at the bit in just wanting to pull the trigger on them



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EDFC's are 100% optional. JRZ RS/RS-Pro are leaps and bounds better than the Ohlins R&T. They're comparable to the TTX, but there is no TTX application for the FRS/BRZ, yet.

[cdrazic93]

Are the Ohlins R&T worth the price? Or is there a combo of damps and springs that will be much better for a "soft" OEM like...ride, but sturdy and planted when pushed hard? Would the compairison be those JRZ's everyone is talking about? I'm assuming, from past posts, that they are more worth the money than the Ohlins.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Are the Ohlins R&T worth the price? Or is there a combo of damps and springs that will be much better for a "soft" OEM like...ride, but sturdy and planted when pushed hard?w

They're a VERY well built 1 way damper. That's the problem (to me). It's a 1 way damper, and I like having the ability to adjust more than just rebound.

For the average guy who wants something easy to dial in, it's an excellent setup, and I'd recommend it over the entry level 2 way dampers.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

They're a VERY well built 1 way damper. That's the problem (to me). It's a 1 way damper, and I like having the ability to adjust more than just rebound.

For the average guy who wants something easy to dial in, it's an excellent setup, and I'd recommend it over the entry level 2 way dampers.

I was about to edit my post to ask about that...im basically looking for something that i dont need to tinker with, something i can shove in there and click down the ride height a bit, then go. Not really interested in the rebound rates and such, partially because i dont have the knowledge for it, nor will i require such customization, wont be tracking.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

I was about to edit my post to ask about that...im basically looking for something that i dont need to tinker with, something i can shove in there and click down the ride height a bit, then go. Not really interested in the rebound rates and such, partially because i dont have the knowledge for it, nor will i require such customization, wont be tracking.

That's the thing with a coilover; you *have* to set it up properly, to utilize it properly. However, dialing in something 1 way is easy. Set it to maximum damping. Drive it down the street. Go down 2-3 notches. Drive it again. Repeat until it rides well. Note that setting. Now go down 2-3 more notches. Does it ride worse now? Then go back to the setting that rode well, and try the settings 1 higher and 1 lower.

This should be doable in a weekend. Once you find your setting, you'll probably never change it.

[Ymerej]

When you lower your car past 2 inches do you really need rear control arms or can you just get an alignment? (DD no track)

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Ymerej

When you lower your car past 2 inches do you really need rear control arms or can you just get an alignment? (DD no track)

If you're okay with the camber, you can just align the toe.

[supramkivtt2jz]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

If you're okay with the camber, you can just align the toe.

Hey Mike, would you mind addressing my question as well?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=738

Thanks,

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by supramkivtt2jz

Concerning a rear lower control arm, what are the benefits of the method of camber adjustment these two SPC arms utilize?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38527

To me, it seems the 67660 model (the "new" model) has an inferior camber adjustment method compared to the 67645 ("old") since the shock is not moved in relation to the knuckle.

They went from copying the Cusco to copying the SPL... no further comments.

I recommend the SPL part.