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Old 01-21-2016, 03:42 PM   #2801
Shark_Bait88
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Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
Hmmm...I never meant to generalize that stiffer = better. We've had a wide range of shop cars over the last 10+ years and each one has had a variety of suspensions. Some soft overall, some stiff. And some with soft springs + stiff bars or vice versa. And of course we track cars in stock form all the time and encourage others to do so as well (with some pads/fluid). IMO one of the more "fun" set-ups is RCE Yellows with Bilsteins or just RCE T0s, which aren't super stiff in comparison to some coilovers.

As churchx mentioned, it's important to match your suspension to your tire choice as well as your intended usage. More grip means more body roll. If you're running street tires with medium amounts of grip, you don't need ultra-stiff rates and you can easily overload the tires. With r-comps or some of the new super sticky street tires, firmer rates would be recommended, although not "required." They would just help you get the most out of the tires. Very firm rates IMO also require a more advanced (and expensive) damper to control them effectively. Most of us do not need very firm spring rates.

KW V3s, the "old" Ohlins, and Bilstein coilovers are well suited to street tires for both street and what I call "light track" use. The rates generally work nicely with good summer tires and will still be pretty nice with really sticky tires. They're also easy to drive fast when set-up well. Ohlins calls their coilovers "Road & Track" and IMO that is a great name. Good for the road, good for track days. They are not necessarily meant to be on record breaking hill climb cars or duking it out in w2w racing. And that's okay, because they have other advantages like durable finishes and not having to be rebuilt every couple thousand miles.

With that in mind, for those that want to be really fast on the track...enough that they are investing in r-comps, attacking time, caged/flared/turboed, etc., a firmer coilover is the better fit. That's why KW has their competition and clubsport line, Bilstein as well. You can of course go too stiff.

What I imagine is happening with certain companies is that they are seeing more and more people put much more weight in ride quality than track performance. In the last few years especially, we've seen a huge change in people putting the widest possible wheel/tire combo (or just wheels) on their car BUT stay with a relatively low grip all season or hard compound summer tire. These people usually are not tracking their car much, if it all. So with that in mind, very stiff springs aren't really necessary. IMO in the case of the "new" Ohlins, they're a bit softer than I would like and with that travel is a concern.

I hope that helps!

- Andrew
That was very helpful, thank you. The point of matching suspension and tire grip makes plenty of sense.

So then for coilovers like the B16 and SACHS, is the use of the progressive rattes in the F/R and rear only, respectively, an effort to provide that compromise between performance/ride quality and at the same time work to solve the travel issues that arise from softer springs?
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:24 PM   #2802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shark_Bait88 View Post
That was very helpful, thank you. The point of matching suspension and tire grip makes plenty of sense.

So then for coilovers like the B16 and SACHS, is the use of the progressive rattes in the F/R and rear only, respectively, an effort to provide that compromise between performance/ride quality and at the same time work to solve the travel issues that arise from softer springs?
IMO yes.

Progressive springs aren't the end of the world on the track, and I've seen very firm tender springs (which can result in a dual rate type of set-up) used by World Challenge wheel to wheel cars. But generally most prefer a simple linear spring.

- Andrew
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:42 PM   #2803
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IMO yes.

Progressive springs aren't the end of the world on the track, and I've seen very firm tender springs (which can result in a dual rate type of set-up) used by World Challenge wheel to wheel cars. But generally most prefer a simple linear spring.

- Andrew
Makes sense to me.

And in all honesty; if it hadn't been for employee discount, company pride, a curiosity to see how they perform, and a slight desire to own something nobody else, to my knowledge, has on these cars in the US, I would have ended up buying Tarmac2s instead of the coilovers I did buy.

Thanks for all the info!
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:31 PM   #2804
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Originally Posted by Shark_Bait88 View Post
Makes sense to me.

And in all honesty; if it hadn't been for employee discount, company pride, a curiosity to see how they perform, and a slight desire to own something nobody else, to my knowledge, has on these cars in the US, I would have ended up buying Tarmac2s instead of the coilovers I did buy.

Thanks for all the info!
No problem, the Sachs stuff sounds interesting! Also they always have one of the cooler booths at PRI.

- Andrew
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:14 PM   #2805
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Hey guys hoe about another alignment recommendation!? 😝

Equipment:
RSR Super downs.
25-30mm drop 3.16K spring rate FRONT
30-35mm drop 4.49K spring rate REAR
Stock stuts
17X9 +35 with 245/45/17 UTQG rating 200 A-A

Adjustment:
SPC Crash bolts FRONT
FTSF86 LCA REAR

What I'm looking for:
Balanced handling during "spirited" street driving, some autoX/HPDE. I don't mind some tire wear as this isn't my daily so I don't generally sit on the highway. After reading some input in another topic I'm leaning away from any toe out, in the rear for braking stability. Seems like getting the most adjustment for negative camber up front ~1.7° and maybe -2° in the back for tire wear? And 0 toe all around.



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Old 01-23-2016, 10:05 PM   #2806
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I just installed my D2 coilovers and it came with adjustable end links. I adjusted the ride height at the lowest I could go. The end links were installed the same way but brought the sway bar up a ton. I test drove it and there was no cluncking. I was just wondering if I performed the install of the the end links correctly. Thanks for your time!
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Old 01-25-2016, 03:18 PM   #2807
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So I'm looking to purchase adjustable camber plates that work with the stock struts and RCE Yellow springs. I was looking at the Ground Control plates but read that they would not work with stock diameter springs.

What is the diameter of the RCE Yellows? Which camber plates are available for this setup that do not raise the ride height of the car or reduce strut travel?

I believe that Hotchkis and Raceseng make plates that meet these requirements but are there any others? Pros and Cons of each brand?



Edit: Also I already have the SPC camber bolts which gets me around -1.0 degree, I'm looking for plates so that I can go more negative and easily make adjustments at the track.
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Old 01-25-2016, 03:38 PM   #2808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avishenoy1 View Post
So I'm looking to purchase adjustable camber plates that work with the stock struts and RCE Yellow springs. I was looking at the Ground Control plates but read that they would not work with stock diameter springs.

What is the diameter of the RCE Yellows? Which camber plates are available for this setup that do not raise the ride height of the car or reduce strut travel?

I believe that Hotchkis and Raceseng make plates that meet these requirements but are there any others? Pros and Cons of each brand?



Edit: Also I already have the SPC camber bolts which gets me around -1.0 degree, I'm looking for plates so that I can go more negative and easily make adjustments at the track.
RCE should be stock diameter as they just replace the stock springs. I would go with Raceseng so you can get some caster adjustment too

Edit: does the beatrush one work with OEM size struts? I love beatrush stuff
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Old 01-25-2016, 05:28 PM   #2809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avishenoy1 View Post
So I'm looking to purchase adjustable camber plates that work with the stock struts and RCE Yellow springs. I was looking at the Ground Control plates but read that they would not work with stock diameter springs.

What is the diameter of the RCE Yellows? Which camber plates are available for this setup that do not raise the ride height of the car or reduce strut travel?

I believe that Hotchkis and Raceseng make plates that meet these requirements but are there any others? Pros and Cons of each brand?



Edit: Also I already have the SPC camber bolts which gets me around -1.0 degree, I'm looking for plates so that I can go more negative and easily make adjustments at the track.
HVT makes some I think
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Old 01-25-2016, 09:15 PM   #2810
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RCE should be stock diameter as they just replace the stock springs. I would go with Raceseng so you can get some caster adjustment too

Edit: does the beatrush one work with OEM size struts? I love beatrush stuff

http://www.racecompengineering.com/i....html?___SID=U
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Old 01-26-2016, 04:09 PM   #2811
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@go_a_way1 @avishenoy1

I grabbed the wrong link guys. RCE has a disclaimer on the ones I linked above that they aren't intended for street use.

These are the correct street camber plates.

http://www.racecompengineering.com/i....html?___SID=U
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:35 PM   #2812
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Question for RCE:

I have my T2s installed with the recommended compression/rebound settings. Are the recommendations designed for track use or a balanced DD approach? Either way, do you have a recommendation for something a little more forgiving for the crappy downtown roads I face every day?
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Old 01-30-2016, 02:29 PM   #2813
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Protecting coil-overs in winter.
Due to changes to suspension geometry, my thought is that swapping back to stock would involve excessive alignment adjustment twice a year, on top of autox/hpde prep.
Some forums including NASIOC suggest T-9, which I can pick up locally.
Some suggest 'any spray on anti-seize'.
Some suggest Permatex in the bottle with the brush.

What do you guys suggest for winter coil over protection, and overall; anti-seize protection?

My thought is to remove the strut from the lower body, then the collars, then the spring and spray everything lightly with T-9. Then re-assemble.
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:22 PM   #2814
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I have always used the SS KW coil-overs, and I have been fine, but they are still a PITA to clean if I want to adjust anything.

Next time they come out, I am putting these on:

http://garage16.ca/isc-suspension/is...i-2121482.aspx

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