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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


View Poll Results: What weight oil do you run for track days?
0W-20 94 40.00%
5W-20 12 5.11%
0W-30 21 8.94%
5w-30 75 31.91%
10W-30 6 2.55%
0W-40 16 6.81%
Other 11 4.68%
Voters: 235. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 06-17-2015, 04:58 PM   #29
1Cor10:23
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@CSG Mike @CSG David have you guys gone to 0W20? I've seen some posts where you guys have suggested both 5w30 and 0w20...just wanted to know what the latest thinking now is Also, if 0W20, any thoughts on oil pressure at redline?

Cheers.
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Old 06-18-2015, 06:16 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23 View Post
@CSG Mike @CSG David have you guys gone to 0W20? I've seen some posts where you guys have suggested both 5w30 and 0w20...just wanted to know what the latest thinking now is Also, if 0W20, any thoughts on oil pressure at redline?

Cheers.
It's fine, but we're using 5W30 for the FI setup. Make sure to use the Jackson Racing Oil Cooler kit as the temps are pretty rock solid during track use.
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Old 06-26-2015, 12:17 AM   #31
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So stock FRS should also run 5w-30 on the track? Or since it's not F/I run 0w-20?
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Old 06-26-2015, 12:52 AM   #32
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Anyone notice different temps between different brands even when they're the same weight?
Recently changed and noticed temps in 210-220 range from just normal driving when previously it would be below 210 regularly.
A couple WOT pulls and its up to 240s, previously touching 220s.
Weather has been consistent as well.
I'm sure there's a bunch of different factors, just thought it was odd seeing that much of a difference back to back.
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Old 06-27-2015, 12:02 AM   #33
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So stock FRS should also run 5w-30 on the track? Or since it's not F/I run 0w-20?
if you are tracking i'd say run at least 5w30 IMHO.

i am also a big fan of amsoil signature series.
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Old 06-27-2015, 04:17 PM   #34
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Torco 10W-30 but going to a 15W-40 (because I have over a 1000 gallons laying around) or 20W-50
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:03 AM   #35
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Torco 10W-30 but going to a 15W-40 (because I have over a 1000 gallons laying around) or 20W-50
I think a 10, 15 or 20W is going to be way too thick IMO.

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Old 06-30-2015, 08:03 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew025 View Post
Anyone notice different temps between different brands even when they're the same weight?
Recently changed and noticed temps in 210-220 range from just normal driving when previously it would be below 210 regularly.
A couple WOT pulls and its up to 240s, previously touching 220s.
Weather has been consistent as well.
I'm sure there's a bunch of different factors, just thought it was odd seeing that much of a difference back to back.
Do you have a cooler on your car at all? Those temps seem pretty high for street driving if you have proper cooling.

-mike
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:35 AM   #37
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Do you have a cooler on your car at all? Those temps seem pretty high for street driving if you have proper cooling.

-mike
I don't have a cooler.
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Old 06-30-2015, 02:36 PM   #38
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I think a 10, 15 or 20W is going to be way too thick IMO.

-mike

Id rather it be too thick than too thin.

With the 10w30, I have over 10 trackdays and most of them with fairly decent power.
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Old 06-30-2015, 03:29 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Andrew025 View Post
Anyone notice different temps between different brands even when they're the same weight?
Recently changed and noticed temps in 210-220 range from just normal driving when previously it would be below 210 regularly.
A couple WOT pulls and its up to 240s, previously touching 220s.
Weather has been consistent as well.
I'm sure there's a bunch of different factors, just thought it was odd seeing that much of a difference back to back.
But are they really the same weight? The number on the bottle is a grade, or a viscosity range. You can have oils on the low end of the grade, in the middle of the grade, and on the high end of the grade.

I'm not sure if it affects oil temp., but HTHS definitely affects oil pressure.
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Old 06-30-2015, 03:40 PM   #40
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But are they really the same weight? The number on the bottle is a grade, or a viscosity range. You can have oils on the low end of the grade, in the middle of the grade, and on the high end of the grade.

I'm not sure if it affects oil temp., but HTHS definitely affects oil pressure.
What's the best way to figure that out?
I was going to name the oils, but didn't want to do so before getting some information to prevent a possible fanboy war and not getting information.
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:21 PM   #41
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What's the best way to figure that out?
I was going to name the oils, but didn't want to do so before getting some information to prevent a possible fanboy war and not getting information.
It depends on the oil company.

Really it comes down to what information they provide and what they include on their product data sheets. Mobil1, Red Line, Motul, Amsoil, Pennzoil and a lot of others are good at posting their data sheets with the relevant information.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...l_1_5W-20.aspx

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf

Castrol doesn't list actual HTHS (data sheet only lists the minimum)
http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/Fu...20US%20PDS.pdf

And data sheets are always changing. Oils can be reformulated and the viscosity may change. Although if it's an API certified oil, it has to be resubmitted for certification if it's reformulated.

I tried copying a viscosity chart above but it didn't work. Here's a link:

http://www.widman.biz/English/Tables/J300.html

Note that a 20 grade viscosity can be anywhere from 6.9 to 9.29 cSt's at 100C and the HTHS can be 2.6 to 2.9. That's the newest SAE chart which also lists 8, 12, and 16 grade oils. OMG, you run 20 weight? That is SO thick!

Last edited by bluesubie; 06-30-2015 at 05:28 PM. Reason: Added viscosity chart
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Old 06-30-2015, 06:12 PM   #42
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Is anyone running Shell Rotella Conventional 15w40? I'm looking for a good forced induction oil for only summer driving and with change intervals of 3k miles. I know a few years ago the motorcycle world was loving this stuff. It's also pretty cheap if I remember correctly. I thought synthetics were for lengthening change intervals, so why run them if they'll only be there for 3k miles?
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