Direct Injector Seal Installation | Video and Issues

[37]

The tool is being used correctly. If the disc were made to push down then it would need to be a larger diameter (which wouldn't work to shrink the seal) and end up pushing against the ramped side of the flange (which also wouldn't work to shrink the seal). It has to go from bottom to top as shown.

[BRZnut]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

Can those of you who have had this issue and know what number your DI's were (or still have the warranty receipt) chime in?

On another note, I just confirmed that I too can see the # on my injector without yanking everything. Thanks, @Dezoris.

Interesting...I just looked at mine and I have a "3" where you show the 2 in your picture......build date Sept 2012

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by BRZnut

Interesting...I just looked at mine and I have a "3" where you show the 2 in your picture......build date Sept 2012

That's to be expected. There are 3 different sets. You'd need this number to find out which injector part number to order if you needed a to replace your injectors.

[BRZnut]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

That's to be expected. There are 3 different sets. You'd need this number to find out which injector part number to order if you needed a to replace your injectors.

Yes very aware, but I'm wondering if there is any cluster of the same DI numbers around certain build dates, and if certain numbers are more prone to the seal failure. Would be interesting to create a chart of build dates and DI numbers to see if there is any correlation.

[Hawaiian]

Originally Posted by BRZnut

Yes very aware, but I'm wondering if there is any cluster of the same DI numbers around certain build dates, and if certain numbers are more prone to the seal failure. Would be interesting to create a chart of build dates and DI numbers to see if there is any correlation.

I was thinking about this. It would be nice to get this info, but it would be a small data set that would lead to a lot of speculation... it is the internet after all. Still, it couldn't hurt.

Info we could use:

1) What bank
2) What injector #
3)?

Add on more.

[topazsparrow]

Originally Posted by Hawaiian

I was thinking about this. It would be nice to get this info, but it would be a small data set that would lead to a lot of speculation... it is the internet after all. Still, it couldn't hurt.

Info we could use:

1) What bank
2) What injector #
3)?

Add on more.

The problem is that nobody will know for certain if they have the DI issue unless it's bad enough to warrant pulling the DI's. To my knowledge not more than a handful of cases exist on these forums.

Even Dezoris thought for sure he had the problem but discovered that wasn't the case after pulling the DI's.

[Porsche]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

The circular disk with the bevel cannot be slid down the cone or seal holder as the cone is larger than the hole of the circular press.

That's the key, and it's why I said I really needed it in my hand; but now I see.

As you can see on this picture it will not slide past that part of the holder. Its a bottom up press procedure.

Got it, thanks.

Perhaps one could employ a washer of the right size that could press the seal down without leaving you thinking that it was damaged?

That whole installation looked like a kludge, and I shared your sense of dismay after the first one, thinking WTF?!

To my inexperienced eye, your injectors looked good, undamaged. The seals seemed okay considering the environment in which they live.

Could you share with us the kind of driving you've done. Did you ever autocross your car? Do you take it to redline often? If so, is it just intermittently with plenty of time to cool down between redline shifts? Or, have you subjected it to track-like conditions where it's endlessly at full throttle, running to redline and shifting briskly?

I'm trying to get a handle on what, if anything, I can do to prevent my injector seals from melting down. That seems to be the proximate cause for the subsequent engine failures, if I've understood correctly. After the seals "disappear," there may or may not be adequate warning to the owner before an engine melt-down. Please correct me if I've misunderstood.

I'm trying to understand what we owners can do to avoid damage and problems until the manufacturer provides a solution.

Currently, I've set my rpm "alarm" to 5800 rpm to shift at 6000 rpm in order to keep that tip-in rpm in the next gear below 5200 rpm. I'm not convinced that 5200 rpm is a magic number, either. But, I do not understand those charts you guys posted. I'd be grateful to anyone who would take the time to carefully explain those "tuning" charts we've been shown.

I've tried winding my engine out to redline and shifting briskly … but I cannot hear any knock, or pinging. I'm also in my sixties and I've come to understand that my high frequency hearing is markedly diminished, so maybe the pinging is there but I just cannot hear it.

I'm like most owners here, I suspect, in that I just want to know how hard I can drive my BRZ without incurring damage. It's not clear to me, and this whole business has me concerned, more so than I can recall with any car in the past.

I'm interested in the final solution, but lacking that currently, I want to enjoy my BRZ but protect it, too, while we await a solution.

Is the max rpm the real issue, or is it more an issue of progressive heat build-up such as one would incur on a race track, but would be nearly impossible to duplicate on the country roads around me. Locally, there's plenty of time for the components to cool between cracking off a few redline shifts between corners. There just aren't any places locally to safely go fast for very long before encountering conditions that would put others in jeopardy … and I won't do that. So I slow down, and things have time to cool down. I'm very conscious of respecting others' rights to safely motor down the road without having me sliding into them at 90 mph.

I was glad to see that your engine was okay, but still wondering how it's been driven.

This whole business is an interesting puzzle. And again, I do appreciate the lengths you've gone to in pursuing this.

[ft_sjo]

5200 rpm isn't a magic figure, however it is the figure used in the ecu to specify when to stop using the transient spark retard table.

[Porsche]

Originally Posted by ft_sjo

5200 rpm isn't a magic figure, however it is the figure used in the ecu to specify when to stop using the transient spark retard table.

Right. So... do you think my "strategy" is useful or useless?

BTW, are you a Brit in the UK? I'm in the Midwest, USA.

[ft_sjo]

Tipping-in below the threshold will most likely stop this particular behavior, however there are other transient det scenarios. I don't really consider those an issue normally, but I'll still probably try and map them out.

[regal]

I don't understand why everyone keeps saying the issue is only related to shifting.

My seals are blown and I've never shifted from 3rd into 4th at redline, that's way over the speed limit where I live.

However I have on many occasion taken a rural curvy road at 5k+ in 2nd and 3rd rpm letting on/off throttle for several miles. And I am sure many others have done this too. This is not reckless driving.

The fact that the nurburgring rental firms have completely dropped this platform is worldwide news and this issue needs addressed. Its a huge red flag.

I stood by with the CEL issue , was the first to publicly post that a simple ECU flash will fix and not to panick. But this DI issue is a serious problem. But I am seriously looking at replacing the seals myself and getting out from under this car before word spreads and resale tanks.

I waiting 4 years following this car's development but a low milage MR-S or S2k sounds so good right now.

[jadewbj]

Would going with aftermarket fuel injectors solve the issue?

[M1K3]

Originally Posted by regal

I don't understand why everyone keeps saying the issue is only related to shifting.

My seals are blown and I've never shifted from 3rd into 4th at redline, that's way over the speed limit where I live.

However I have on many occasion taken a rural curvy road at 5k+ in 2nd and 3rd rpm letting on/off throttle for several miles. And I am sure many others have done this too. This is not reckless driving.

The Transient Ignition Retard function is designed to introduce ignition retard during transient conditions. Transient conditions are identified by a fast change in Throttle Position (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP). So yes you do not need to be shifting to induce knock in these type of conditions.

Originally Posted by jadewbj

Would going with aftermarket fuel injectors solve the issue?

No

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by jadewbj

Would going with aftermarket fuel injectors solve the issue?

No aftermarket DI's are available yet (or will be in the foreseeable future) They're very complicated to make. Now if someone were to make a stronger aftermarket DI seal, that may be a valid solution.