AVO Turbo Kit Owners Topic

[DoctorNick]

About how much machining needs to be done to get the flanges to be flat. 1-2mm? Is this something I should expect to do when I buy the kit?

[h4nh]

Originally Posted by nataku

Let me know how you go about fixing the leak. I think I might still have the slightest leak but at this point I'm not doing anything but machining it if it doesn't go away.

It's very minor now, I think a new set of gaskets will do it.

[h4nh]

Originally Posted by DoctorNick

About how much machining needs to be done to get the flanges to be flat. 1-2mm? Is this something I should expect to do when I buy the kit?

I don't think they're all that severe. Should be just the gasket. Instructions didn't say to replace them so we are all learning that that should be a simple fix.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by DoctorNick

About how much machining needs to be done to get the flanges to be flat. 1-2mm? Is this something I should expect to do when I buy the kit?

Its whatever it takes to make them flat. Nothing incredible, but might be more than 2 mm.

Originally Posted by h4nh

It's very minor now, I think a new set of gaskets will do it.

Hopefully thats it, but most everyone has had to remove the manifold machine it and reinstall.

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Its whatever it takes to make them flat. Nothing incredible, but might be more than 2 mm.



Hopefully thats it, but most everyone has had to remove the manifold machine it and reinstall.

What type of shop would be able to check and machine if necessary? Does tuner shop have this capability?

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

What type of shop would be able to check and machine if necessary? Does tuner shop have this capability?

Any shop that has the tools to resurface (i.e. rotors) can do it. I payed $80 to have mine resurfaced (this only for the resurface, on top of shop time to remove-reinstall the manifold). Close attention needs to be paid as there are shops that might do it wrong and resurface them at an angle, essentially removing material and fixing nothing.

[gdrider77]

Originally Posted by Draco_PR23

The first one is the upgraded PCV valve and the second will replace the factory PCV in the block. I just had a look at it and I see some very small threads at the beginning, I think you kinda see it in the pic.

Thanks!

Yeah....thats pretty much exactly how mine looked. Alost no thread at the beginning. This will not work, you probably got the same one as me from a batch of bad castings/threadings. Contact Paul and have him send you a new one. The correct one should look just like any other threaded bolt, and the threads should be thicker through-out.

[killerkid08]

Originally Posted by Draco_PR23

The first one is the upgraded PCV valve and the second will replace the factory PCV in the block. I just had a look at it and I see some very small threads at the beginning, I think you kinda see it in the pic.

Thanks!

i see i see. I only was offered the first pcv choice when i bought mine, so power to you for getting a block fitting. I eliminated mine, due to it leaking boost, and causing my oil reservoir to puke at times. I'd suggest as seen above, requesting a new one, and in the mean time venting it.

[h4nh]

My kit was running great for two days then all the sudden it was at zero boost. Felt like it was back at stock. It wasn't a boost leak.



Found the problem to be the cotter pin that holds the acuator lever on was too small. It probably fell off or broke off.



Drilled the hole with a bigger drill bit.





Installed a bigger cotter pin. Hopefully it should hold up better now.



Second issue was it was leaking oil behind the oil pump where the camshaft is. RTV sealant was used as directed in the instructions but it didn't hold up well.




Pump removed with old sealant.


All the pieces cleaned up and old sealant removed.


New sealant to be used. This is what toyota uses from the factory. It sets in about 15 minutes so you don't have to wait 24hrs before it can be driven.


The block side was cleaned off and new sealant applied.


Final assembly.


Done for now.


Got these Forester turbo gaskets that will be installed soon. There's a minor leak but not that noticeable now.




Hope this helps in case you guys run into issues. The car feels good now.. dyno tune next week!

[nataku]

Thanks for keeping us posted. I've been using grimmspeed gaskets with rtv copper sealant with success so far for the exhaust leak. As for oil leaks from the pump / motor connection I've noticed the same but it hasn't been nearly as serious for me. I'll keep an eye on it though.

[DAMotorsports]

We have found that on any import motor you should only use the gray sealant or the factor sealant. Which in most cases are the same thing in different packaging. I'm glad you got the problem fix.

[Drift-Office]

I usually use Toyota's FIPG or Permetex BLACK when I'm out. No issues with either, but I certainly use ALOT more than what's pictured so I don't have to do it a second time, like I did with the original AVO car.

Not sure what happened to your cotter pin though...

Cheers!


Bob @ Drift-Office, LLC

[OICU812]

Sure lots of having to fix this and that posts in reference to this kit lately? Are these concerns being addressed or parts and sections revised??

[killerkid08]

Originally Posted by h4nh

My kit was running great for two days then all the sudden it was at zero boost. Felt like it was back at stock. It wasn't a boost leak.



Found the problem to be the cotter pin that holds the acuator lever on was too small. It probably fell off or broke off.



Drilled the hole with a bigger drill bit.





Installed a bigger cotter pin. Hopefully it should hold up better now.



Second issue was it was leaking oil behind the oil pump where the camshaft is. RTV sealant was used as directed in the instructions but it didn't hold up well.




Pump removed with old sealant.


All the pieces cleaned up and old sealant removed.


New sealant to be used. This is what toyota uses from the factory. It sets in about 15 minutes so you don't have to wait 24hrs before it can be driven.


The block side was cleaned off and new sealant applied.


Final assembly.


Done for now.


Got these Forester turbo gaskets that will be installed soon. There's a minor leak but not that noticeable now.




Hope this helps in case you guys run into issues. The car feels good now.. dyno tune next week!

Had the same issue with my actuator rod but I bought a assorted pack of pins and just got one that fit better. Nice fix though.