Best Oil for turbo engine.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by SilverSkyline210

Subaru's Idemitsu 5w30

So you're running a 20 weight. Some recent uoa's at nasioc show this shearing to a 20 weight in ~3k miles.

Originally Posted by Whatabouteggs

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-201/

0w20-40 based on oil pressure. You want 10psi per 1000rpm. There is no reason to use anything with a thicker cold rating than 0, other than cost. All oils are too thick to lubricate engines effectively until they reach operating temperature.

Be careful reading Motor Oil University. It was written by a plastic surgeon that drives around Southern Florida on the street in his exotic cars running oil you can't buy at Wal-Mart.

It is one man's opinion and some folks in the industry that post at bitog state some of his info is outdated and not accurate. I have no idea why the owner of bitog keeps it posted there. Probably because he has donated a lot of money to the site.

Regardless of what the second number is, one reason to use a 5W over a 0W is stability. A 5W-20 will usually have less viscosity modifiers than a 0W-20 and vm's are the first thing in oil to break down. My comment on the Subaru oil above is a good example. Race oils like Red Line 5W-20 or Motul 300V are a different animal. I'd run either one of these over a GF5 Resource Conserving 5 or 10W-30.

And what difference does cold cranking viscosity make anyway when it is tested at -30C and -35C? The difference is .01% improvement in fuel economy for the first three minutes of driving.

-Dennis

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by zoth

Mobil 1 05w-30 here w/ Liqui Moly (3721) Cera Tec Friction Modifier.
Following oil changes would be Mobil 1 05w-30 with Liqui Moly 2009 Anti-Friction Oil Treatment .

Originally Posted by ThisGuy919

WILL be running 05w30 Amsoil Synthetic

05w????

-Dennis

[spitfire481]

Originally Posted by Reaper

Brad penn specifically says not to use their oil with e85 on their website. @spitfire481 making sure you saw this

For break in, I doubt it matters. I wouldn't use it long term anyway. It's either that or red line 5w30 and half bottle of their break in additive to get the zddp up. Also brad penn advises not to use it with e85 because of it gelling up from extreme fuel dilution. More of a poor tune/sitting too long/bad rings deal than anything. Pretty much just covering their ass. We have ran brad penn 10w30 in a e85-98 Vw drag car for 2 years so far. Never had an issue with oil. I've only found one car that had an issue online and it was an evo.

[SilverSkyline210]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

So you're running a 20 weight. Some recent uoa's at nasioc show this shearing to a 20 weight in ~3k miles.

yea, another reason not to run 0w20 and have it get even thinner, and since going turbo, 3k oil change interval for me or earlier if i abuse it alot (i get the oil for free so why not use it)

[Reaper]

amsoil dominator 10w30 2500miles e85 18 psi

[Reaper]

@bluesubie

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Reaper

amsoil dominator 10w30 2500miles e85 18 psi

The car is still breaking in so the iron, copper, and silicon are from the break-in process.

TBN looks ok but I wouldn't go much past 3k miles on this (I'm sure that's your plan anyway). OAI will flag TBN if it drops below 2. Although the rate of TBN depletion isn't linear and it could drop off very slowly over the next 1,000 miles.
Love that ZDDP! There's more in this oil than in Rotella!

Did they flag oxidation at all? If they did, it's not really a problem since oxidation numbers on ester based oils read high from the start. There's a technical paper or two out there floating around about it.

[Reaper]

no they didn't. This car also has two DAYS of dyno time and a few fueling issues. Im going to push past 3k(just) on this next oci and see how it fairs. Im assuming the silicon is from the fact that it has a brand new deep sump pan and a brand new turbo etc on it. I'll post up the next one when its time.
I know its asking a lot on e85 but I want to see if eventually I can get it to 5k miles.

[Baramzisyan]

Redline 5W30

[1stGenBRZ86]

Has anyone had any luck with 5w30 castrol synthetic? I read to avoid Mobil1 on Suby boxers. I have Redline 5w30 right now, but trying to avoid a future filled with $100 oil changes...

[Reaper]

Castrol is old school tech with new marketing. Motul or amsoil still rains supreme. If youre not tracking or on e85 you can bump you oci up drastically with either. As long asbits not their race oil. Nothing wrong with Toyota oil either.

[Poodles]

Originally Posted by 1stGenBRZ86

Has anyone had any luck with 5w30 castrol synthetic? I read to avoid Mobil1 on Suby boxers. I have Redline 5w30 right now, but trying to avoid a future filled with $100 oil changes...

Just make sure you're getting the oil tested and extend the service interval.


For instance, I know a Supra running on Redline that never changed the oil, only changed the filter at 5K miles and added oil to replace the oil lost with the filter change (and the Blackstone labs sample as he had a fumoto valve). Blackstone kept reporting it as perfectly fine.


Probably helps he had a bypass filter, as well as a proper oil cooling system with a thermostat. Of course, YMMV...


On the Castrol, I'd run the German 0w-30.

Originally Posted by Reaper

Castrol is old school tech with new marketing. Motul or amsoil still rains supreme. If youre not tracking or on e85 you can bump you oci up drastically with either. As long asbits not their race oil. Nothing wrong with Toyota oil either.

Castrol is old school tech?





Even the cheapest API certified oils on the market are lightyears away from "old school," and the German Castrols have been fantastic for their price for years.

[Astroboy]

Is it ok to be running the one toyota 0w20 synthetic oil with an avo turbo application? I'm currently pushing 257whp. I just daily drive my car, no tracking. I also can't resist not pushing my car hard either. Just curious if it's safe or not

[Astroboy]

Anybody?