Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[daiheadjai]

Originally Posted by GotMunchies?

An exhaust leak won't cause a front end vibration, that dealership was looking for an excuse to not work on your car.

Did you lock up the brakes before going off?

Take another look at your front left wheel, brake rotor, and all the suspension components associated with it. Get your car's jack out, take that wheel off and take a closer look at everything. Give everything a quick wiggle to see if anything got knocked loose or is bent.

Take a look at your wheel - are there any wheel weights still attached? Perhaps there is a blank spot where they USED to be attached?
If it was really muddy, mud can get stuck in some surprising places and cause vibrations.

Does the car pull in any direction?

No pull, but I think I will do as you suggest and pull the wheel off and take a look myself.
I don't think I locked the brakes (rather, I was understeering into a rumble strip) - I probably should've just straightened out the wheel instead of taking the impact sideways (figure I was doing about 70-80 kph)

[ZionsWrath]

Take the wheel and put it on the rear see what happens?

Best bet go to another dealer or contact Subaru directly if you feel very strong that dealer is feeding you a line of complete shit. I did this with a dealer that said I couldn't wait for my car that was in for warranty work and Subaru offered to pay for a rental.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by daiheadjai

Update:
Brought the car to the Subaru dealership for them to check.
Here's what they came back with:

Their conclusion after taking the car on the highway is that it is due to an exhaust leak, because my of my GReddy axle back is not OEM and "not a proper fit" (despite it being designed for this car)
They also told me because I modified my car, this would void my warranty.

Pretty sure I won't be getting my cars serviced from that dealer again, given that the extent of my mods is an intake and exhaust.

Also, I hate to be "that guy" but I kinda doubt this conclusion, because I can't quite see how an exhaust leak would only happen at 75kph and 120kph, and have a tendency to be louder/detectable through the steering wheel only when I turn to the right hand side.

Anyone have experience with this sort of thing who can chime in and let me know if I should bring it to another shop for a second opinion?

Thanks!

An exhaust leak causes noise, not vibration. If a vibration were caused by resonance, it would be at around the same RPM in every gear, causing it to happen at multiple speeds.

Go to another dealer or shop that is more willing to help.

[RFB]

Has anyone come up with ideal front and rear camber settings for a neutral handling twin - STOCK height springs and shocks and sticky tires ?




CERBERUS

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by RFB

Has anyone come up with ideal front and rear camber settings for a neutral handling twin - STOCK height springs and shocks and sticky tires ?




CERBERUS

I've been using -3.0 front and -2.0 rear on stock springs and dampers with AD08r tires. The car is now much looser than stock but I haven't yet played with many other settings (I am liking the feel of this setup for now).

With this configuration though you have to be careful; the car is much easier to balance, but you also have alot more ability to make it spin or snap.

[kavanagh]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

I've been using -3.0 front and -2.0 rear on stock springs and dampers with AD08r tires. The car is now much looser than stock but I haven't yet played with many other settings (I am liking the feel of this setup for now).

With this configuration though you have to be careful; the car is much easier to balance, but you also have alot more ability to make it spin or snap.

How did you get to -3 in the front?

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by kavanagh

How did you get to -3 in the front?

Camber plates and bolts

[THEmailman]

This one is for everyone, especially those that compete in NASA TTD/PTD...

I am starting to get more serious about tracking the car and feel that the FR-S will be with me for a few years and eventually make it to a semi/full track-prepped car to compete in time trials and potentially wheel-to-wheel (if I decide to go with all of the supporting safety equipment). That being said, I am also wanting to start with a few modifications on the car, but I don't want to go so crazy that I place myself in a higher class then TTD (in NASA, or equivalent in other series) and have to compete with cars that were initially classed higher. I have read through the TT rules and classification and I feel that I have a decent understanding, but some of the wording is weird. Furthermore, I am only allowed 19 modification points before I am bumped up a class.

Therefore, my question is, what mods are the most worthwhile in terms of performance gains (brakes, suspension, engine, etc) that will allow me to compromise the best and keep in the class I want? I could easily go with full slicks but that would take up half my points and I am not sure the car would perform well with slicks and few to no supporting modifications to other components. I have included the link to the classification sheet if people aren't familiar. One specific question relates to the use of coilovers, as it seems that you are double-charged points for the modification of the shock and springs...?

http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/t...sification.pdf

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by THEmailman

This one is for everyone, especially those that compete in NASA TTD/PTD...

I am starting to get more serious about tracking the car and feel that the FR-S will be with me for a few years and eventually make it to a semi/full track-prepped car to compete in time trials and potentially wheel-to-wheel (if I decide to go with all of the supporting safety equipment). That being said, I am also wanting to start with a few modifications on the car, but I don't want to go so crazy that I place myself in a higher class then TTD (in NASA, or equivalent in other series) and have to compete with cars that were initially classed higher. I have read through the TT rules and classification and I feel that I have a decent understanding, but some of the wording is weird. Furthermore, I am only allowed 19 modification points before I am bumped up a class.

Therefore, my question is, what mods are the most worthwhile in terms of performance gains (brakes, suspension, engine, etc) that will allow me to compromise the best and keep in the class I want? I could easily go with full slicks but that would take up half my points and I am not sure the car would perform well with slicks and few to no supporting modifications to other components. I have included the link to the classification sheet if people aren't familiar. One specific question relates to the use of coilovers, as it seems that you are double-charged points for the modification of the shock and springs...?

http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/t...sification.pdf

We are campaigning our Project BRZ in TTD and hopefully move it up to PTD eventually as well.

So like you we've been pouring over the rules and points.

Something you may not be aware of is that slicks don't cost as many points as you may think. Since 245 is the "base width" for the TTD class, if you run the Bimmerworld Take-off Continental tires that we are running in 225-45-17, you gain back 4 of the 10 points that the tires cost you. The tires run $250/set shipped as well.

Here is what we have done so far on our car for TTD...

Continental Take Offs in 225-45-17
MachV Awesome Wheels
Crawford AOS
Touge Factory Brake Ducts (Got them used cheap, but found out they actually work very well after the fact)
Motul Fluids (Oil, Trans, Diffy, Brake)
Hawk HP+ Pads (going to move up to the Street Race Pads shortly)
Eibach Prokit Springs
Great alignment
P3 Cars Vent Gauge to monitor vitals

Our plans going forward include:
Tune & Header back
Coilovers
Huge Oil Cooler

We feel that it will have us fairly competitive in the TTD class. We also are working with several other teams and NASA to push for a Spec BRZ/FRS class in the next few years based on the TTD/PTD standard to make the series even that much better.

Please e-mail me directly pasian@azpinstalls.com and we can chat about other mods etc.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[kavanagh]

Originally Posted by THEmailman

This one is for everyone, especially those that compete in NASA TTD/PTD...

I am starting to get more serious about tracking the car and feel that the FR-S will be with me for a few years and eventually make it to a semi/full track-prepped car to compete in time trials and potentially wheel-to-wheel (if I decide to go with all of the supporting safety equipment). That being said, I am also wanting to start with a few modifications on the car, but I don't want to go so crazy that I place myself in a higher class then TTD (in NASA, or equivalent in other series) and have to compete with cars that were initially classed higher. I have read through the TT rules and classification and I feel that I have a decent understanding, but some of the wording is weird. Furthermore, I am only allowed 19 modification points before I am bumped up a class.

Therefore, my question is, what mods are the most worthwhile in terms of performance gains (brakes, suspension, engine, etc) that will allow me to compromise the best and keep in the class I want? I could easily go with full slicks but that would take up half my points and I am not sure the car would perform well with slicks and few to no supporting modifications to other components. I have included the link to the classification sheet if people aren't familiar. One specific question relates to the use of coilovers, as it seems that you are double-charged points for the modification of the shock and springs...?

http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/t...sification.pdf

We're also heading into TTD with NASA, and here in the Arizona region the TTD class record holder at several tracks is an FRS.

His mod list is without giving away too much:
E85 tune - 0 points
air filter panel with stock intake tubing- 0 points
single exit muffler delete - 2 points
coilover suspension - 5 points
brake pads on stock size rotors - 0 points
the rest he spends on tires. Hoosiers if I recall correctly.

He's already running at speeds on par with the TTC guys, so he may bump up next season and get another 19 points to spend.


My wife and I on the other hand drove off the dealer lot with a 10 point car. Automatic tranny with paddle shifters is good for 6 points, and the little factory spoiler gave us 4.

When it comes time to actually join TTD, we'll either remove the spoiler, or put something worth the points on it.

Our plan so far is.
E85 tune (already done)
Air filter panel (already done)
Paddle shifters - (already done) 3 points
non-BTM gear ratios - (already done sucks because we have to take the points and it's more a detriment than benefit) 3 points
brake pads on stock rotors - 0 points
muffler delete - (already done) 2 points
camber bolts and plates - 0 points (bolts already done)
final drive reduction - 0 points
factory spoiler - (already done, but may remove/upgrade) 4 points


study the no-points mods section to see where you can take real advantage of stuff

[THEmailman]

Originally Posted by kavanagh

We're also heading into TTD with NASA, and here in the Arizona region the TTD class record holder at several tracks is an FRS.

My wife and I on the other hand drove off the dealer lot with a 10 point car. Automatic tranny with paddle shifters is good for 6 points, and the little factory spoiler gave us 4.

When it comes time to actually join TTD, we'll either remove the spoiler, or put something worth the points on it.

factory spoiler - (already done, but may remove/upgrade) 4 points


study the no-points mods section to see where you can take real advantage of stuff

I did not know they counted the factory spoiler for points, so I guess I will have to remove that...does it not count as a factory part that comes with the car, or is it because it is an option and not standard?

[kavanagh]

Originally Posted by THEmailman

I did not know they counted the factory spoiler for points, so I guess I will have to remove that...does it not count as a factory part that comes with the car, or is it because it is an option and not standard?

Because it's an option.

Anything that does not come on the Base Trim Model is considered an option and gets points. So even though paddles are standard on the auto, the auto is not the base trim, so I have to take points. People who buy the special series with different front lip, side skirts and rear diffusers take huge hits.

[BRZ NA]

Car felt a lot more roll after high grip tire changed,( stock size ) can bigger sway bar or -camber solve the problem?

Car also felt understeer when entering tight corners and when exiting corner, understeer instead oversteer. However,tried lower the front tire pressure helps a bit, but still not solve it.

[THEmailman]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

Please e-mail me directly pasian@azpinstalls.com and we can chat about other mods etc.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Thanks for the response, I sent you an email. I think I forgot to add, does having a tune with something like EcuTek (or similar) cost points or is that free?