How to soundproof your BRZ

[rlpaul]

When it comes to road noise, tires have a much bigger impact vs anything else. If you're talking about the concrete seams, you might be experiencing some NVH through your suspension as well. And if you're running camber plates vs the softer stock mounts, then you'll get some added noise that way too, as its reverberating through the frame/shell.

You can counteract some of that with CLD tiles, and the door is a good place for this, but really any part of the car with a long stretch of flat metal is a good place for CLD.

Another thing to keep in mind: different materials absorb/reflect different soundwave lengths. In other words, some material may reflect shorter, higher pitched waves (ie, wind noise) better than the rumble you might get from a rough surface. That's why you usually see a combination of CLD, MLV, CCF, and products like 3m Thinsulate all used at the same time.

[North_GA_FRS]

Wanted to share my experience based on sound deadening both my Xterra and Frs (still underway). I used MLV in the xterra because I wasn't concerned about weight and also did 100% coverage with sound dampener (Reckhorn 80mil). Reckhorn is great stuff and much less expensive (notice the word cheap was not used, this is quality stuff). You can find it on amazon. My experience with the X is that panel fitment becomes problematic when using 3 layers (dampener, MLV, and CCF). I had to pull Panels several times trim, and try to fit the panels again. Had the same problem with the Frs when putting the jack and tire iron pieces back in even though I didn't use MLV. I used 100% 80 mil sound dampener coverage and some thick flooring insulation purchased at Lowes. had to replace the fittings in the section behind the rear seat with screws and washers because they wouldn't snap in; not a big deal since its a tighter fit now and they are never seen. To this point, I have done 100% coverage of the following: entire trunk and rear seats, 3 layers under the spare tire and 2 under the rear seats and tunnel, wheelwells, and everywhere I could reach with all the rear panels off. I also purchased some home insulation from Lowe's which is wrapped in plastic (R13) and filled all voids with it. I did the doors with about 65% coverage and CCF, only did 65% because a had some excess laying around from Xterra work previously. Doors will get 100% when I remove the front seats to complete the floor. The results for both the Xterra and Frs have been fantastic. the stereo in both sound really good and the annoying rattles in the doors is gone, the drone from the TRD catback no longer gives me headaches and the noise on fairly smooth highways at 80mph is no longer over bearing. There is still quite a bit of road noise on bumpy roads and concrete highways but again, my floorboards and tunnel still have to be completed. Even when done, i expect there will be plenty of road noise, after all, you're sitting about 6 inches from the road. One other thing i did on both cars was remove the plastic fender liners and applied a couple coats of Herculiner to the fender wells and everything that was primer green that i could reach. The plastic liners are very thin and flimsy, so i used some long strips of dampener to stiffen them up, then coated the inside with 3 coats of Plastidip. I Herculined the Xterra fender linert as well; it looks good on the X but not sure it would look as good on the Frs. This has been a long process thus far but the car is far more civilized on long drives and the $300 spent on materials has been well worth it. As a side note, I used a different dampener on the Frs, it's called Noico Black 80mil but is also available in normal color. I went with this because it's available as an amazon prime shipment and is less expensive than the Reckon per sq/ft. Noico is $1.67 sq/ft and Reckon is $2.18. In comparison Fatmat 80mil is $2.52. MLV is even more expensive and shipping can cost you just as much as the product itself since its very heavy, plus, it's not very plyable. I would not use MLV on the Frs, instead, I would double or triple layer the dampener on horizontal surfaces Then I would add a decoupler, such as a flooring underlayment (Bluehawk .125 from Lowes). This will also work well on vertical surfaces such as doors to stop squeaks and rattles and includes a vapor barrier. Take you're time, don't take shortcuts (50mil is cheaper but dampening/deadening is about weight and density), and you should be very happy with you're results.

[Teseo]

Anyone tried "Meaty" tires?

[kch]

Originally Posted by North_GA_FRS

...

Can you break that into paragraphs? It's hurting my head.

[North_GA_FRS]

Originally Posted by kch

Can you break that into paragraphs? It's hurting my head.

Sorry, typed it on my Phone.

As a side note, I just finished the floors under the driver/passengers seats and tunnel. There's still quite a bit of road noise on the highway, coming from the front of the car. I expect this is probably from the large open cavity behind the mud guards and front fenders. Prior to installing a new OFH, I'll fill these cavities with some insulation and report back.

Since this is a thread based on cabin noise, I'll take some pre/post header install videos (unfortunately I do not have a DB meter) and the phone DB meters aren't very good. I see a lot of videos which highlight exterior sound but I'm more concerned with interior sound.

[North_GA_FRS]

Originally Posted by North_GA_FRS

Sorry, typed it on my Phone.

As a side note, I just finished the floors under the driver/passengers seats and tunnel. There's still quite a bit of road noise on the highway, coming from the front of the car. I expect this is probably from the large open cavity behind the mud guards and front fenders. Prior to installing a new OFH, I'll fill these cavities with some insulation and report back.

Since this is a thread based on cabin noise, I'll take some pre/post header install videos (unfortunately I do not have a DB meter) and the phone DB meters aren't very good. I see a lot of videos which highlight exterior sound but I'm more concerned with interior sound.

OFH installed and completed videos of cold start. I haven't done anything with those videos since they aren't relevant to this sound deadening/dampening thread but if you're considering and OFH and want to hear the difference, I can post them on YouTube.

I did post a video of the interior noise on a cement highway at 75-80MPH. This video can be found here:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HHRqwnatcg"]IMG 1592 - YouTube[/ame]

Keep in mind that this is a segmented cement HWY and you'll be able to appreciate the difference sound dampening has made. I can't tell you if your results will be the same or similar because I may have done more or less than you're willing to do. In total, I've added about 100lbs to the weight of the car. This isn't an issue for me since I don't plan on tracking the car, my goal was simply to make it more civilized.

Overall, I'm very happy with the results. Interior is much quieter and the stock radio/speaker combination sounds pretty darn good. I was planning on replacing the door speakers but following dampening, I see no reason for this. If you replace your speakers without dampening the doors, you're still going to have a tinny sound and your doors will still be rattle traps.

If there is anyone in the Atlanta Metro area considering sound dampening but would like to see the difference it will make before undertaking such a project, PM me and we can take both cars for a ride and do a comparison.

[sprintertrueno86]

@North_GA_FRS

Nice vid, sounds like there's a huge difference with the sound deadening.

How many sq.ft of Noico did you order and how much did you use on the FRS?

[North_GA_FRS]

Originally Posted by sprintertrueno86

@North_GA_FRS

Nice vid, sounds like there's a huge difference with the sound deadening.

How many sq.ft of Noico did you order and how much did you use on the FRS?

I ended up using 4, 2 in the rear and under the back seats, 2 under the front seats, fire wall, tunnel, and a front fenders. I used 2 or 3 layers on all horizontal surfaces. If you're going to pull the interior out, I also suggest you have some wire ties and something like this
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/3M-08620-Window-Weld-Ribbon-Sealer/dp/B0039752R2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1437411041&sr=8-4&keywords=windshield+sealant"]Amazon.com: 3M 08620 Window-Weld 1/4" x 15' Round Ribbon Sealer Roll: Automotive[/ame]

In a previous post, I mentioned some floor insulation I used. The butyl rope is for windshields but it's the same thing the factory uses in the doors for the vapor barrier. I pulled the factory vapor barrier, cut the insulation to shape, lined it with butyl rope, and attached the vapor barrier side the door. I had used Closed Cell Foam in the doors originally, but replaced it with this insulation because I could still hear a rattle in the passengers door.

The butyl rope is also great for cables which are just laying around (potential rattles) put a small piece on the cable and attach it the frame. If you pull the interior, you'll find many cables which require additional dressing. The trunk release and fuel door cables were the worst offenders due to the fact that they are solid, heavy duty cables.

Butyl rope is also good for any sqeaks/rattles you find from plastic panels, such as the fender liners (I wouldn't use in it the dash). For the dash I used this http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/...et-5mm-330415/

I'm a bit of a fanatic when it comes to sqeaks/rattles/noise, so I recently Rhino-lined the belly of the car after removing all the covers. This was a messy job, and combined with the fender wells, took about a gallon to put on 2 thick layers.

As a whole, the car is quieter and more civilized. I don't suggest you go as far as I did; I went this far because I enjoy taking things apart and trying to improve them, while drinking beer in the garage. I've also been "working from home" for the last month since I spent 6 months working in Germany.

[chaoskaze]

Originally Posted by Teseo

Anyone tried "Meaty" tires?

it's super quiet

My friend @ local toyota dealer put on the tire for camry lol....ya same width 215. (215/55/R17)

I drove in his car & it's mighty comfy lol..... it's like i'm floating over the road.

I think the oem 16 is probably the best in both comfort/feel?..... 215/55R17 is just too smooth xD I couldn't feel the damn road like at all.