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Cosmetic Modification (Interior/Exterior/Lighting) Discussions about cosmetic mods.


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Old 05-02-2013, 08:53 PM   #15
Tr1huynh
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200 is a bit rough if you are just spraying the dash panels. 600 then primer re sand wet with 600 and paint
I just need to re sand it with water?
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:31 PM   #16
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Oh it was pretty easy for me. I just took a tiny flat head and poked under the bottom panel and popped it out of place and then I just gently ripped it out. I didn't want to break the inserts. I did it in 3 places but be careful, I scratched my vinyl which isn't too bad since you won't see it.
Cool, mind posting pics on where the tabs are? Rather go straight for a tab than fishing around with my tool
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:37 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Tr1huynh View Post
I just need to re sand it with water?
Get the special sanding paper that is used for wet sanding. Not necessarily to do it with wet sanding but it is much easier and the sanding paper does not clog up.

If you want to paint it dont jump any step of the process and also make sure you do it in a clean environment.

You can easily take the vinyl off with the heat gun. Make sure you use platic primer if you dont want the paint to flake in 2 weeks because of the heat.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:15 AM   #18
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Cool, mind posting pics on where the tabs are? Rather go straight for a tab than fishing around with my tool
Here ya go. Hope that helps.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:16 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Hawk77FT View Post
Get the special sanding paper that is used for wet sanding. Not necessarily to do it with wet sanding but it is much easier and the sanding paper does not clog up.

If you want to paint it dont jump any step of the process and also make sure you do it in a clean environment.

You can easily take the vinyl off with the heat gun. Make sure you use platic primer if you dont want the paint to flake in 2 weeks because of the heat.

Should the primer be a clear coat or my intended color (White) I don't know about paint really.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:53 AM   #20
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Should the primer be a clear coat or my intended color (White) I don't know about paint really.
Shouldnt really matter, but plastic primers come in clear usually. I dont think you will be using a paint with a very strong thinner anyway, so it should be fine. Just have patience and wait for it to dry as per can instructions.

Sand, clean with degreaser or IPA and off you go with the paint. First couple of them should be very light coats, even if you dont cover the whole area. wait the required time and spray again. If you want a half decent job you need to have patience in this type of project. (as in many others too ) Go 2-3 light coats, than 2-3 heavy coats in total.

Make sure you wait enough between the coats to dry otherwise you will get runs, and when it gets dry it might start shrinking like an old man balls. You dont want that.

When everything is superdry (maybe wait 24 hours just to make sure) start sanding them lightly to get rid of the uneven spots. Clean the part and repeat the same process with clear. If you want a deep shine professional job go with several coats.

Now, it also depends on the type of clear you use: 2K or acrylic - there is a difference and also different processes. Basically if you use acrylic use the same acrilic for the clear coat unless you let it dry several days (depending on the type of paint it might even be up to 30 days) When you get to it i will tell you more.

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Old 05-03-2013, 12:34 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk77FT View Post
Shouldnt really matter, but plastic primers come in clear usually. I dont think you will be using a paint with a very strong thinner anyway, so it should be fine. Just have patience and wait for it to dry as per can instructions.

Sand, clean with degreaser or IPA and off you go with the paint. First couple of them should be very light coats, even if you dont cover the whole area. wait the required time and spray again. If you want a half decent job you need to have patience in this type of project. (as in many others too ) Go 2-3 light coats, than 2-3 heavy coats in total.

Make sure you wait enough between the coats to dry otherwise you will get runs, and when it gets dry it might start shrinking like an old man balls. You dont want that.

When everything is superdry (maybe wait 24 hours just to make sure) start sanding them lightly to get rid of the uneven spots. Clean the part and repeat the same process with clear. If you want a deep shine professional job go with several coats.

Now, it also depends on the type of clear you use: 2K or acrylic - there is a difference and also different processes. Basically if you use acrylic use the same acrilic for the clear coat unless you let it dry several days (depending on the type of paint it might even be up to 30 days) When you get to it i will tell you more.

I'll probably go with acrylic since 2k seems a little bit more expensive and this is my first test, hehe. I'll post pictures once I get to it.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:59 PM   #22
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I wiped it with IPA
The spray and sandable primer I got from O'reily and 600 grit wet or dry sand paper.

The left side sprayed.

The right side half sprayed
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:13 PM   #23
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I finally put the finishing touches on my dash. I'm thinking of moving it up and over to the right a tad.
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:15 PM   #24
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Your girlfriend has nice toes. Is that pearl? Where did you get the sticker
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:37 PM   #25
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Haha thanks, it's satin white pearl vinyl and I had the sticker made at stickerbrigade.com!
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:41 PM   #26
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website expired LOL
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:42 PM   #27
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Haha thanks, it's satin white pearl vinyl and I had the sticker made at stickerbrigade.com!
can i have the dimensions of the vinyl you used? thanks
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:20 AM   #28
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can i have the dimensions of the vinyl you used? thanks
Yeah I bought a 5'X1' roll from Auto Vinyl Solutions. It's plenty of vinyl to do your dash (you might need the extra, it took me a few tries to wrap the head unit piece.) and it's only like $10.
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