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Old 05-01-2013, 02:33 PM   #15
kvnchu
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Lowered ~2 Inches

Alignment:

Front:
Camber: -3.2
Toe: 0

Rear Left
Camber: -2.8
Toe: 0.2
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:45 PM   #16
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currently:

lowered 2.375 inches in the front, 1.625 inches in the rear

-3.2 front camber, -2.5 rear camber
0 toe all around
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
currently:

lowered 2.375 inches in the front, 1.625 inches in the rear

-3.2 front camber, -2.5 rear camber
0 toe all around


How much shock travel do you get on those SRCs with that much lowering? Or is the ride height adjustment independent of shock travel?
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayau View Post


How much shock travel do you get on those SRCs with that much lowering? Or is the ride height adjustment independent of shock travel?
No indication of bottoming out the front yet. Did rub off some fender liner, but not touching the chassis like Robi is.

We never actually did explicit measurements until Robi measured it...

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Old 05-01-2013, 04:02 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
No indication of bottom out the front yet. Did rub off some fender liner, but not touching the chassis like Robi is.

We never actually did explicit measurements until Robi measured it...
Does the front allow for more lowering without "messing up" the suspension geometry compared to the back?
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:06 PM   #20
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Does the front allow for more lowering without "messing up" the suspension geometry compared to the back?
Quite the opposite... but I was messing with rake to see how it affects aero, subjectively.

Last I saw Robi's car, he actually ran the opposite from us, where his rear is lower than the front... our car was 3/8 lower in the front and 3/8 higher in the rear than the Robispec FRS, by his measurement, when he last measured.

And yes, the SRCs run a shorter shock, so compression stroke isn't an issue with the lower drop. Haven't had any droop problems in the front, but the rears will lift over driveways. We really should try disconnecting the rear sway per Robi's suggestion... it doesn't hurt to experiment.
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Old 08-05-2013, 02:43 PM   #21
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Front
Caster: max
Camber -2.2 L&R
Toe: 1/8" toe-out

Rear
Camber: -1.8/2.2 L&R
Toe: 0

Eibach ProKit on stock shocks, lowered 1"
Factory crash (camber) bolts
Continental Extreme Contact DW 245/35/18 square on 18x9" wheels

I do a few trackdays a year and instruct also, and I find this setup great all around for DD without compromising grip at the track. I found the middle/inside of the tire to be hotter initially until I dropped the pressures a tad which equalizes the wear (I tend to run typically higher pressures to suit my driving style). Regular rotations between track events so pretty even tire wear now.
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:49 AM   #22
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Wait, what? You can change alignment specs on a BRZ?
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:09 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iLuveKetchup View Post
Wait, what? You can change alignment specs on a BRZ?
Camber and toe in front/ Toe only in rear but if you have coils you can use ride height to get the rear camber were you like.



Front:
Camber 2.3
Toe 0

Rear:
Camber 1.75
Toe 1/32 in
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:18 PM   #24
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I'm lowered 2 1/4" all round on Fortune Auto's.

Front:
toe:0
camber:-1.4

Rear:
toe:-.08
camber:-2.5

it's a little snappy till the tires warm up. what's with disconnecting the rear sway? I know that there's very little droop with my setup, but info on that?
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:54 PM   #25
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Lowred 30mm on RS*Rs.
225/40/18 Continental Sport Contact 2s.

Usage: 90% spirited street driving, 10% track days/AutoX/drifting.

Front:
-2.0 Camber
0 toe
OEM crash bolts + Whiteline front camber bolts + AVO caster bushings

Rear:
-1.7 Camber
0 toe
Whiteline rear camber bushings

Stock sways.

Impressions: Very balanced and controllable overall. Very capable on street, handles track decently given the mild setup. Crisp turn in and rear end reacts nicely to throttle lifts. Tad much more corner entry underster on tight bends than I'd like when pushing up to the very limit (perhaps die to driver error). No excessive tire wear. Great all-around setup, haven't felt like fiddling with it in 7 months.

If were competing for trophies, or maybe 2% out of the 10% of the time I spend driving the car really hard, I'd really like to try out some stickier tires combined with more camber in the hopes of gaining a little more ultimate grip and front grip bias.

The other 98% of the time I'm completely OK with with it as-is.
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:34 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultra View Post
Lowred 30mm on RS*Rs.
225/40/18 Continental Sport Contact 2s.

Usage: 90% spirited street driving, 10% track days/AutoX/drifting.

Front:
-2.0 Camber
0 toe
OEM crash bolts + Whiteline front camber bolts + AVO caster bushings

Rear:
-1.7 Camber
0 toe
Whiteline rear camber bushings

Stock sways.

Impressions: Very balanced and controllable overall. Very capable on street, handles track decently given the mild setup. Crisp turn in and rear end reacts nicely to throttle lifts. Tad much more corner entry underster on tight bends than I'd like when pushing up to the very limit (perhaps die to driver error). No excessive tire wear. Great all-around setup, haven't felt like fiddling with it in 7 months.

If were competing for trophies, or maybe 2% out of the 10% of the time I spend driving the car really hard, I'd really like to try out some stickier tires combined with more camber in the hopes of gaining a little more ultimate grip and front grip bias.

The other 98% of the time I'm completely OK with with it as-is.
I'd never thought of that. By what you said there, you're using the Whiteline bolts on the bottom, and the factory crash bolts on the top strut mount to get even more camber adjustment? Is there room to add even more past -2 with this configuration?
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:52 AM   #27
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Correct.

Can't really comment on whether or not it's better in terms of range (my alignment guy would know better) or even recommended but it works for me.
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:09 PM   #28
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To get extra camber from my crash bolts, I just stretched out the top hole a tad (dremel) and then tightened it up. Got -2.2 up front with just crash bolts and Eibach ProKit (1" drop).
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