Using higher quality brake fluid vs using cheap but changing more often

[CounterSpace Garage]

Originally Posted by N_I_N

3 questions:

1. Are there any DOWNSIDES to running any of these high performance fluids other than costs?

I am a newbie on mechanical things, but I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I know that sounds like I'm cancelling out the first statement with the second, but what I mean is; as long as I have directions, I'm pretty good at following something and putting 2+2 together if I run into an unknown. So question 2...

2. Has anyone seen a really good tutorial for bleeding brakes online?

3. How much fluid would one need to completely flush the FR-S system?

1. Higher rated performance brake fluids are more hydroscopic (attracts/absorbs moisture). Although the qualities are good, it means the peak boiling temperature drops until it's completely compromised to the wet boiling temperature. Even with standard DOT 3 fluid, it is recommended to change brake fluid every year for optimal performance.

2. What kind of tutorial are you looking for? How to do it or what order to do it?

3. 1L of brake fluid is generally sufficient in flushing your brake fluid pretty well. Most of the time, you use less than a liter. Sometimes you'll need more if you're trying to pump out that stubborn bubble that got introduced into the system.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

I've been racing on ATE since 2004 in a car with tiny rotors and poor ducting. Trust me, it can handle it just fine. I have never boiled fluid.

I used to push ATE SuperBlue too.. I have never boiled it in any of my Hondas, and still run it in the race car, but I did boil it in the BRZ. :shrug:

I'm an abusive asshole to brakes though.

I do a bleed (not flush) every event with AP Super 600, pedal has remained solid throughout events. I actually didn't have time before one event, so it did a 2 day event then another 2 day event, cracking a rotor the last day of the second event, fluid still had zero bubbles/etc in it. Firm pedal.

Until I get to a situation like Mike's (bleeding during the track day, noticable deterioration of pedal feel, etc) I won't step up to the high dollar fluid simple because I don't need to yet.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by CounterSpace Garage

1. Higher rated performance brake fluids are more hydroscopic (attracts/absorbs moisture). Although the qualities are good, it means the peak boiling temperature drops until it's completely compromised to the wet boiling temperature. Even with standard DOT 3 fluid, it is recommended to change brake fluid every year for optimal performance.

2. What kind of tutorial are you looking for? How to do it or what order to do it?

3. 1L of brake fluid is generally sufficient in flushing your brake fluid pretty well. Most of the time, you use less than a liter. Sometimes you'll need more if you're trying to pump out that stubborn bubble that got introduced into the system.

This. I usually use 2L of fluid for a full bleed, I'm paranoid with brakes a little

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by CounterSpace Garage

1. Higher rated performance brake fluids are more hydroscopic (attracts/absorbs moisture).

Just because I'm pedantic and this is a common mistake that I also had to be corrected on by an instructor.

Hydroscopic: -n; any instrument for making observations of underwater objects

Hygroscopic: -adj; (of a substance) tending to absorb water from the air


Then the confusion is compounded because the opposite of HyGROscopic is HyDROphobic.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by CounterSpace Garage

3. 1L of brake fluid is generally sufficient in flushing your brake fluid pretty well. Most of the time, you use less than a liter. Sometimes you'll need more if you're trying to pump out that stubborn bubble that got introduced into the system.

You may as well use the whole liter since there's no point in saving the bottle once it's open.

[CounterSpace Garage]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Just because I'm pedantic and this is a common mistake that I also had to be corrected on by an instructor.

Hydroscopic: -n; any instrument for making observations of underwater objects

Hygroscopic: -adj; (of a substance) tending to absorb water from the air


Then the confusion is compounded because the opposite of HyGROscopic is HyDROphobic.

HAHAHAHA I just thought about the Family Guy moment when this happened. Thanks for the correction! :happy0180:

[CounterSpace Garage]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

You may as well use the whole liter since there's no point in saving the bottle once it's open.

That's essentially up to the user of course.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

You may as well use the whole liter since there's no point in saving the bottle once it's open.

^ that's the other reason I stopped using ATE.. too much waste. Although we don't follow that with the race car and no bad results.. yet

[2015FRShalo]

I'm not too sure if this is the correct brake fluid for my 2015 frs so if anybody could tell me? I'd love to get project mu so is the correct one? And how many liters do I get? http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm...MU-BRAKE-FLUID

[Black Tire]

Originally Posted by 2015FRShalo

I'm not too sure if this is the correct brake fluid for my 2015 frs so if anybody could tell me? I'd love to get project mu so is the correct one? And how many liters do I get? http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm...MU-BRAKE-FLUID

That is the correct fluid. You may also consider Torque RT700. This came out after most of this thread was written. There is a review and discussion about it here:

Torque RT700 Review

[ScionOfHorus]

Originally Posted by Black Tire

That is the correct fluid. You may also consider Torque RT700. This came out after most of this thread was written. There is a review and discussion about it here:

Torque RT700 Review

I dunno if it's still going, but CSG had a 4-for-3 deal going a little while ago.

[CSG Mike]

http://counterspacegarage.com/pmu-gfour335.html

[Alan]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

http://counterspacegarage.com/pmu-gfour335.html

Mike, I made the switch from Stoptech 660 last year (its what was on hand) to Motul 660 this year. Brakes have gotten better. Is the PMU Gfour that much better?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Alan

Mike, I made the switch from Stoptech 660 last year (its what was on hand) to Motul 660 this year. Brakes have gotten better. Is the PMU Gfour that much better?

It's a small incremental step up. If you want a larger step, go to RT700. The price isn't much more than RBF660.